Andy Moltu

Zero ohms indicates a short, presumably the shutdown is a protective measure.

The concept of equal length primaries is not new - way before anyone made one fir a TR. As Pete says temperature is a significant factor. No doubt those designing F1 engines and the like may well have the computer modelling to test their designs but that wasn't available back in the day. Thus his comments are valid and the jury is out on which of the equal length primary manifolds simply because there are too many variables. Exhaust gas temp and the use of the vehicle- road or race, top end or mid range?

There were other manifolds with equal length primaries but not sold through the big TR retailers. I've got one that is less compact than the images above but gave a good boost to mid range torque than the bunch of bannanas that I had on before which made more of a benefit at the top end. Interestingly some modern cars have variable length inlet trumpets that are controlled to optimise with the RPM. If you could do this with exhausts it could give you increased mid rang torque and top end power... On the end the benefits of tuned manifolds are only worthwhile if you have done the othe

Not likely unless on telescopic shockers that are fully compressed at normal ride height. TR5s only had telescopic shockers at the front lever arms being fitted at the rear. That wouldn't mean it hadn't been converted to telescopic rear dampers. But rear telescopic rears were only fitted from the TR7 onwards although the same basic trailing arm set up utilised telescopic dampers on the 2000/2.5 & Stags. Pictures have gone but more likely long springs or a body mounting issue.

I didn't say you can't get modern colours in cellulose just that you aren't supposed to use it on modern cars. Impossible to police. I read this on a sign at the paint suppliers earlier this week. This seems to date from 2004/5 when restrictions on the use of volatile organics solvents. This is referred to on HMG website but the link doesn't work!

4 Mikuni carbs sound like a lot of hassle when it comes to balancing. Webers were a contemporary modification but if you are considering a quad carb setup it would seem more like logical to go efi perhaps? Well set up Weber’s are not necessarily that thirsty but time and effort to do so as well the expense of a rolling road and the cost of swapping to the optimum internals rather than best adjusting what your Webers came with. I was once advised that it could cost nearly as much to get a good second hand pair set up as to buy new with the right set up.

Cellulose paint is still available but the sale (in automotive terms) is restricted to vehicles that might have been painted with it from new. So for TR use it’s OK but not for a 2020 Audi for example. How that’s policed? Not to my knowledge but that’s a different matter.

It’s safe enough if done with care. Needs a spark or a flame to ignite the petrol so carefully removing it and pointing at a jam jar, or simply aiming it at the injector port so any fuel sprayed goes where it would have gone anyway will have negligible risks attached.

Hard to justify for me and for me good for brown daisy production. They may handle but, for me, in the wet somewhat scary.

Could you have an intermittent short on one of the speaker wires. Totally confused the CD/Radio until I found it.

Yet it’s odd that some claim that 2k is too shiny.

Have you reduced the bi-pass hose. The shroud on the bellows thermostat covers the opening to the bi-pass hose as it opens forcing flow through the radiator. The “modern” stats like your picture doesn’t and, unless you put a reducer to limit flow in the bi-pass too much of the flow goes straight round without being cooled. Later cars had a modified housing with a reduced diameter hole where the bi-pass hose attaches. If the bi-pass has been addressed you either have insufficient cooling from a furred up rad or failing water pump (occasionally impeller slip on the shaft or impell

Originally the fillers had a spire clip, but they can rust and need replacement. I too drilled an fitted a split pin as I wasn’t confident that the available spire clips were up to it and even the same size rather than a “near” metric size.

I had a Tex screw on one work off and I think Roger had a similar experience. The original Tex ones may have hooked in but the current ones don't seem to be designed this way.

It's worth checking that the handbrake is off and cables are slack before adjusting the rear brakes. Then take up the slack in the cable.

Martin Ward has a fire under the bonnet - stuck in traffic with the electric fan and other accessories on thought to have been caused by a missing engine to body earth. This was on a 6 where the battery neg goes to the bell housing and onto the body. His only went to the bell housing. A previous owner had seemingly fitted an earth strap from an earlier car, assuming that was how it was. However the 4a etc have an entirely separate earth strap from the engine block to the body/chassis.

My experience of the screw on type is that they have nothing to lock into the groove on the wiper box. They grip well enough on the splines to prevent slippage but ultimately nothing to resist axial movement bar friction. Over time the spring pressure of the wiper, along with vibration and temperature changes cause them to pop off. The push on ones might not engage with the splines as well but at least have something to engage with the groove. It’s a shame the screw on ones don’t have anything to hook in the groove. Where is the problem? Is it the wiper boxes or the arms? I’ve

Turn the ignition key and wait until the fuel pump changes its note when the system is pressurised. Full choke and crank over until it starts at which point push the choke back into about half way (varies from car to car) If it hasn't run for a while may take a bit of cranking. If a day or two, pretty much instant.

The Jenveys do look very much like the CR inlets but at a considerable premium over the Fred Millturn ones. I think that Emerald don't recommend fitting in the engine bay.

If an injector is blocked and doesn’t clear with tapping or nipple tweaking remove and blow through with an airline.

Are they not meant to be assembled dry?

Fuel and water are a different matter. Both the solvent effect and the consequences of the electrics coming in contact with the fluid. OK petrol needs a spark or a flame to ignite but better the two don’t make contact.