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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/18/2020 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    Well Sunday morning was a little eventful for the first start up, battery fully charged but still not enough power in it turn the engine over fast enough, got out the jump leads and she fired up. Ran for 30 mins. Just a few teething problems, new battery required ( had this one 5 years) and the new temp transmitter is running very high but the fan is clicking on/off I’ll try the old unit tomorrow. Mike Redrose Group
  2. 4 points
    Well this morning is the start of reinstalling the rebuilt engine, to start with rewrapping the 4 branch, then dropping the engine in, it may have been a little easier with two but I got there in the end, do a little more tomorrow morning. Mike. Redrose group
  3. 3 points
    En route to Helsinki via Moscow and St Petersburg, Scenic Car Tours, September 2019, St Basils Church, Red Square, Moscow and Hotel Metropol Moscow, well guarded.
  4. 3 points
    Mount Hood(11250ft), Oregon. Aug 2018. The photo taken at approx. 7500ft.
  5. 3 points
    Going back a few years but it is definitely Scotland in April 1980 on honeymoon!! 40 years ago. Tim
  6. 3 points
    Another successful morning after going food shopping with Carole, (it has to be done) day of tomorrow looking after grandson so back to it Saturday get car up in the air to fit exhaust and bleed brakes and clutch then hopefully Sunday we will see if she starts Mike Redrose Group
  7. 3 points
    Called in to see Farther Teds house Cloon Ireland.
  8. 3 points
  9. 2 points
    Hi all, 15 years after buying my TR6, a spitfire, an abandoned TR6 project and many Land Rovers later, I'm finally back in a TR! A 1956 TR3 with a rather flashy colour scheme. A huge thanks to Craig at TR Bitz for everything. It's very stressful spending a large amount of money on a piece of old metal but Craig went above and beyond to make sure I was 100% happy with my purchase. Thanks too to Jean-Christophe and Marko for the friendly advice. Timing is everything, so what better weekend to pick to drive from Manchester to Le Touquet in France than last weekend? My partner gave me grief for leaving her alone on Valentine's Day to pick up a toy (she's not a fan of classic cars) but I had a couple of mates who were game to do seperate legs of the journey with me. I hadn't factored in the weather but the storm warnings were increasingly worrying. I set off on my own from TR Bitz on Saturday morning just as the rain started to get heavy. The original plan was to take B roads down and enjoy the drive but I opted for the motorway and made it down to Oxford in under 3 hours to pick up my first passenger. Cruising at 50-60mph in the rain was fine, the tyres (Contis) did a great job. Stoped for a great pub lunch before dropping Alex off in NW London. Drove to Hackney to pick up copilot number 2 and 50 yards after he jumped in the windscreen developed a crack and then the car died completely in the middle of Hackney. Fun, fun, fun. Dead battery, friend took an Uber to Halfords and brought a fresh battery back. Fired up and we continued our attempt to exit London. An hour later, we were still hitting heavy traffic near Dartford and didn't fancy driving at night during a strorm so headed back to London, parked the TR in a shopping centre and went to the pub. Early start the next morning but we ended up waiting for an hour to leave the car park as the weather was terrifying. I figured our breakdown the previous day was due to the lights, wiper and electric fan draining the battery with stop start London traffic preventing the alternator from charging it back up. So we drove with just the sidelights and no wipers just to be safe. And leaving early on a Sunday morning meant we saw very little traffic and had a full day of daylight to get home. Once we made it through to the other side of the blackwall tunnel, I could finally breathe! The drive down to Folkestone on the M2 was predicatably ghastly and we saw two very nasty accidents along the way. I only switched the wipers on for the last 5 minutes as the heavens really opened up a couple of miles from the junction for the Tunnel. Those last few miles were really scary, we're lucky we were so close. At the tunnel, had to pay a hefty surcharge as our original booking was void and as it was one of the busiest days of the year, the earliest train they could fit us on was 5 hours later. Needless to say, we were desperate to get home by then so I managed to plead/beg/charm our way onto an earlier train. Spotted a red TR6 a few cars ahead of us, we weren't the only idiots on the roads yestreday! The motorway from Calais to Le Touquet is very exposed to the wind so the last 50mi contained some further butt clenching moments but I made it the restaurant where my girlfriend and friends were having lunch in time to order a main course. I almost crashed the TR 20 yards from the finish line! A guy came it a bit hot but he had priority and I locked the fronts and continued sliding towards him. Just missed the other car by a whisker. Parked up and ordered a large beer and counted my blessings. According to its MOTs, the little car barely covered 1000mi a year over the past 10 years but it went through hell and back this weekend and came out the other side still smiling. I've got to sort our the cracked windscreen, will add some relays and fuses and a battery cut off over the next few weeks. I would like to get rid of the yellow lipstick and eventually swap out the red interior for a used black set and probably convert to LHD. Runs a bit rich too and running on when the ignition is turned off after a long drive. 27mpg on the way home. That's 10mpg more than the Landy! I'm very, very happy with my car and am looking forward to long drives along the coast here in the sunshine. Maybe then my girlfriend will forgive me! 12 years ago, less hair and less arrogant these days... This was when we were about to set off for Le Mans Classic in the TR6
  10. 2 points
    Hi All I always thought the brake and clutch lines looked untidy so came up,with a neater solution. Mark.
  11. 2 points
    Hi Andy, I've found this voltmeter image, if you print it on heavy paper you can see if the size is right. Mike. Volt dial.docx
  12. 2 points
    As a new member to this forum I think this post needs to get back on topic.
  13. 2 points
  14. 2 points
    Exciting times! good luck with engine start steve
  15. 2 points
    Hi Pete, I would suggest NOT to remove them. Firstly they are very tight and may need drilling out. The blind cavity that they create will contain solidified sludge that is going nowhere. You can clean the remaining oil ways easily without removing these grub screws. They are 5/16" UNF - nothing special. Roger
  16. 2 points
    Sapphire Blue. Best TR6 colour there is :)
  17. 2 points
    +1 If both gauges have stopped working it must be something common to both and the voltage stabiliser is the most likely. The spark could be a red herring too - he may just have disturbed a connection.
  18. 2 points
    The temp and fuel gauges work off a common supply which is from the voltage limiter in the top right of drivers footwell. Behind carpet So before changing gauges you should check the supply from that isnot displaced and that there are volts coming out of the unit.. Mike
  19. 2 points
    I have had a few of mine refurbished by this company- not inexpensive, but one has to pay for a quality job I think. They also were able to supply new chrome bezels of the correct profile for those I have yet to get sorted. Best time to send them is October of course, when their turn around is a bit shorter. My fuel, temperature (send them the sender bulb with your instrument and it will come back calibrated properly) all around £60-70 pounds. My oil temperature instrument was a little dearer but they did replace the whole of the sender "wire"- it came back looking new- and it now works. All those prices were a couple of years ago so may have changed a little. www.speedograph-richfield.com
  20. 2 points
    My TR3 parked at Nordkapp, Norway - June 2015.
  21. 2 points
    Timmelsjoch Summit, Austrian Dolomites, C.T. 2010 10CR. Tim
  22. 1 point
    Jury returned a verdict of " Reliable " long ago . Tom
  23. 1 point
    Hi Pete, You've triggered another memory cell, white paint sounds familiar. If I can find what is left of the sheets I printed we'll know what I used. The date on the file is 2013 so I may not still have it. Mike.
  24. 1 point
    No TR7s in this thread so far, so here are just a few of the 140 at Gaydon Motor Heritage Centre in September 2014.
  25. 1 point
    Hi Waldi, if there is scientific evidence to advance the timing due to coming slack, that would be great. So far, I have not identified this. Pete's example shows about 1° degree difference between the 5mm and 10mm slack (5mm is a new chain) @ crankshaft. Korrekt? David Vizard writes this: " If you have a choice of two settings which are equally spaced either side of the desired setting, then choose the one most retarded of the two as a delay in inlet valve closure is better than an earlier opening. " Jochem
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Hi Dan, not sure how far you wanted to go, but there is a video on YouTube which was very useful for me, by a guy called Cheftush, he upgrades the oil in his Armstrongs and the video works a through the whole job.
  28. 1 point
    Give me strength can you not see the wear marks that the worn out parts have done ? the tensioner has worn the plate and without doing what I said it will snag again,but you know better
  29. 1 point
    Where in Kent are you? A vehicle trimmer would have them - They may well call them 'smash together' rivets. https://www.eastkenttrimsupplies.com/ https://www.oxtedtrimming.co.uk/ http://maidstonetrimming.co.uk/ Items 54 & 55 on this page https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/weather-equipment/hard-tops/surrey-top-fittings-tr5-tr250-1967-68.html Cheers Peter W PS Removal of old ones is done with brute force and care. I squeeze up the sides of the cap with pliers then nip through the stem with side cutters.
  30. 1 point
    On my TR6 I removed all of them. I had to drill some and use a tap to get them out. Maybe a 2 hr job. I feel more confident I did, I’m the kind of guy that wants to know what’s inside. If you do not remove them you cannot clean all bores. If it was really needed I will never know, but that’s part of the game. Just my 2 cents. Waldi
  31. 1 point
    Iain you will have to remind me when it’s fitted and I’m back on the road.
  32. 1 point
    I recently got rid of my 50 year old Drive Shafts and got TR Shops Heavy Duty Uprated ones fitted...Clonks all gone! Glad I didn't opt for the CV's after reading this!
  33. 1 point
    Similar answer to Andrew, I used a decorators hot air gun (very carefully) to warm the fabric/vinyll and that cured the problem. Lesson learnt, I always close the hood now when leaving the car parked up.
  34. 1 point
    If you look at the seal its very obvious which is the correct way to fit it, the tube is slightly offset one way the offset needs to go to the outside. Stuart.
  35. 1 point
    Most didn't survive Rob, and most were as rotten as a pear after 10 years or even less tbh. I think a lot of them only survived because they were dragged out of scrapyards and gardens by us enthusiasts and classic car lovers with the floors hanging out. The same goes for my TR which was ready for scrap when I bought it in 1983. if you look at a car 20 years old today there's often not that much evidence of corrosion. Kevin
  36. 1 point
    Hi Mick, thank you for that and also for the idea for an article. My english is not so good, so if someone whats to write the article for TR Action I give the photos free and can mail them in full solution. I will use them also for an article at our german TR IG Magazin, some time has past since I did wrote one…. Ciao, Marco
  37. 1 point
    Excellent Mike. a very productive and I hope satisfying day's work.
  38. 1 point
    Absolutely true that flex in the frame and movement of parts will affect the relationship between the diff and gearbox axes. It would still seem prudent to design for the variation to center on the optimum alignment. This would minimize the deviations from optimum. Ed
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    I have dropped you a PM
  41. 1 point
    There’s a fuse in the supply to the instrument voltage regulator. If your brake lights don’t work (same circuit) then check the fuse box.
  42. 1 point
    Wait until the weather is warmer and the hood will stretch slightly allowing you to close it (or heat garage to 20-25 C) H
  43. 1 point
    Quincy Market/Faneuil Hall, downtown Boston, MA USA
  44. 1 point
    Franco/Italian border in the Alps last summer
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    On tour in Scotland parked near Loch Ness with Pink and Guy back in 2011 Stuart.
  47. 1 point
    Hopefully this fits the criteria. Dorset Group trip to Brittany in September 2018. Tim
  48. 1 point
    I have an original tonneau for my TR4 and the poppers are stainless. Cheers, JeffR
  49. 1 point
    Looks wonderful. I can't see the little pipe that drips oil on driveways......TR's always mark their territory.....
  50. 1 point
    Hi Rich, I'm just working on that (seal unsealed), I can show you how I do this. First make shure your seal looks like this (the one on the photo, 10 years old, I had to prepare with a scissors) Put the brake cylinder through the back plate and fit the medium sized, bended spring plate with the tooth outwards. This gives you enough play to tip it and to put the leaver in its position. Next put the the "distance washer" in its postion and the rubberseal around the spring plate: The spring plate slides on the back plate and the locking plate covers / holds the seal when you slide the locking plate it between the others, slide it until "click" To open it I always press down the bendeded spring washer and pull out the locking plate. When ever I do this I think a small drill in the locking plate may be useful to pull it - but I never made one. I never give any punch on the "distance washer", in my opinion it is not the locking washer or safety washer as often told, it is a retaining washer and slack part of the cylinder, otherwise you don't get the cylinder through the back plate. Have much success, Marco
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