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  1. 2 points
    Ergo, more prime numbers! Here ya go H . . . just for kicks, some variations on a theme. 7 - 5 - 7 11 - 7 - 11 13 - 11 - 13 Cheers, Deggers
  2. 2 points
    I modified my manual wash to electric. The circuit was very simple . 12 volts supply to switch from switch to wash motor then from motor to ground. Modifying the dash based plunger was the more complicated part, but attached is a diagram of what I did. I made this mod in 2003. I seem to remember having the details published in TR Action at that time. Good Luck TT
  3. 1 point
    Hi, with lower front springs you drive very likely on the rubber bump stops because the shock absorbers have very little way. This happened to me with the Spax and driving was that a pain! So I made the bump stops shorter for about 2 cm. Currently I drive old Monroes which are in lovely condition with modified lower shock absorber brachets. I'm very pleased with the lower look if the car and with the driving comfort. Ciao, Marco
  4. 1 point
    This stuff is made for applications like this. It does not harden. I used it on my TR6. Ed
  5. 1 point
    I got 420 springs on my TR6, they are lower than standard, at least the «standard» that is sold as that. But probably not much lower than worn standard springs. Anyway I am happy with how it looks and how it rides, would not want it any firmer though. Magnus
  6. 1 point
    .....and in street use I have found a lighter flywheel means more revs needed to pull away or the engine may stall. Not the old TR ‘sidestep the clutch at tickover’ technique of the previous 30 years Peter W
  7. 1 point
    Lowering without stiffening is not possible, the bump stops are not supposed to act as springs ! However a rear anti-roll bar will reduce roll without a jarring ride. And remove some of the understeer built into the standard setup.
  8. 1 point
    Thank you Pete ~ a very clear explanation ~ Tom.
  9. 1 point
    Before taking 883GOH rallying, Len gave the TR a bit of a shakedown at the Portreath Drag Meeting in June 2000. Here we see Len and Rodders going head to head in blinding sunlight. Julian
  10. 1 point
    Haha! There may or not be secretly texting with Richard, but CBJ always performs perfectly for me. Nigel
  11. 1 point
    Hi Pete I bought 883GOH from Gerald in 1998 with another donor TR4 car 358EXV. The cars were taken to west Cornwall so not sure where the 'last known to have gone to Scotland' came from. A bit of the history I remember is that Gerald rallyed the car in the early 60s' and was a member of the London Motor club; I can remember that as I had to take the club badge off of the car grill and give to Gerald to keep. The car was taken off the road in 1968 when Gerald was assigned to America with EMI if I remember right. At one stage, the car was stored in Kent, where a tree fell on the barn and a beam then landed on the roof of the car (see photo). When back in England Gerald purchased a second TR4 in the 80's as a donor car to rebuild 883GOH, but never got around to it with running his business in Exeter. He advertised the two cars in 1998 and I purchased them both. I rebuilt 883GOH over the next 2 to 3 years, and uprated the car to do historic road rallying - which I had got the bug for after navigating on Le Jog in 1997. I even sold my TR5 to fund the project. All the original panels were kept and I only purchased two new sills, the base of the wings had new metal shaped and welded in, even the ally hardtop was beaten out, and the surry frame straightened. The second photo is of the car in 2001 fresh after the rebuild. The car was rallyed by myself with three diifferent navigators over the next 4 years, and we won three events in it, two HRCR clubmans championship events and the 3 day Circuit of Wales in 2003. Due to a sudden illness and going down with ME/CFS in December 2005, I was unable to drive for a while and actually thought I'd never be able to drive 'in anger' again so sold the car to Roger Bricknell in 2007. Roger then successfully rallyed the car and won another three events with it I believe, before selling it to Ryan Pickering (who was one of my navigators). Ryan won a couple events with it as well, proving the car was very competitive in any drivers hands. 883GOH is probably the best TR I've ever owned (out of the 8....so far), so much so that the donor car that came with 883GOH is now in the process of being rebuilt as a copy! I've been working on 358EXV for several years now, but seem to have less time every year; and last year I did my first season hillclimbing and time just disappears maintaining and trying to improve the TR4 road car I have, but it will get done. I have many more photos of 883GOH which I can share with Gerald, just PM me Regards Len
  12. 1 point
    I knew it !!! This is not going to end happily ever after !!!
  13. 1 point
    One poke with a sharp stick is enough Iain.............it's quite nice here in the naughty corner and always happy in your company
  14. 1 point
    Will try that too Pete, Thankyou.
  15. 1 point
    Evans is not Red. It’s Green. Red sounds like a Oat antifreeze. What have you started Ben? We users should just ignore the doubting Thomas’s :-) I’ll get my coat now as well. Iain
  16. 1 point
    Ben go stand in the corner
  17. 1 point
    Here we go Pete. Gerald might appreciate this. 883GOH was prepared and rallied very successfully some twenty years ago by Len Olds, a Cornish TR owner since 1976. The copyright of this shot remains with the photographer. It shows Len and Helen Olds on the Regis Rally 13th October 2001 I took this shot of Len and Andy Ballantyne in action on the Powderham Historic Rally of Devon 9th March 2002 The car was subsequently sold to another long-standing Cornish TR campaigner, Roger Bricknell from Bodmin. Enjoy Julian Cornwall
  18. 1 point
    With regard to the flywheel, I have a post 20k TR3a and the ring gear for that stayed on the same side when I fitted a hi-torque starter. Rgds Ian
  19. 1 point
    Hi Iain, There should be no issues with any genuine working email addresses regardless of their country of origin. I can see you have an email address associated with your account used to post here that seems to be working. If you'd like to change that email address, PM me your new one and I'll change it for you.
  20. 1 point
    Pete. All great stuff, & highly detailed. One thing you may wish to consider is that if you were to decide to use a modern geared starter motor, then the starter gear meshes with the ring gear from the engine side. Bob.
  21. 1 point
    Thanks Bill. i’ll have to check but i don’t think it is FC land. i am of course registered and the drone is marked according to the new ( as of 1/12/2019) regulations. steve
  22. 1 point
    Hi Richard, Welcome! What to say? I was amazed and delighted to read your post. I happen to be the fortunate TRR member who owns CBJ 257H these days. I bought 'The Thug' as we call him in 2002, from a private seller in Portsmouth. I'm the 6th registered keeper (5 previous on the log book). It's great to hear about my car's past and your restoration, which held up well, though I needed to fit new front wings, sills and door skins in 2011. That's after plenty of miles and a couple of winters without a garage! The highlight of this period was a trip to Ireland and driving the Ring of Kerry. CBJ has a slightly more sheltered life now though still gets a good leg-stretching when the weather is decent. He shares my workshop and car port with a 2.5 litre GT6, a Spit Mk3 project and Scimitar GTE. There's another TR6 in the fleet, of the two wheeled variety, a 1970 Trophy TR6R 650. Pure coincidence that when I was looking for a Triumph bike, I ended up with a 1970 TR6R! The photo below shows CBJ, driven by my partner Trudi, with me on the other TR6. CBJ is sometimes to be seen in Practical Classics, where I'm a contributor, featuring in my Staff Car Saga and in the technical pages. It would be great to meet up and get your old TR and latest acquisition together. There's so much I'd like to ask about CBJ's history, and much I could tell you about his last 18 years. Let's talk soon. I'm also sending yo a PM but meanwhile, welcome back to TR6 ownership. Nigel
  23. 1 point
    Hi Folks, back to the wiper park switch. I have spent ages trawling the interweb for ideas about slowing things down around the Mosfets. Sadly I had no luck. However due to my lack of training in all things electronics very little puts me off and there is one heck of a lot of smoke to release. The problem I had a few weeks ago was a schoolboy error. I have two transistors connect side by side between 12V + and ground. One is turned off and the other turned one - sadly not at the same time. There was a very small overlap in time and this causes a short circuit albeit for a very short time. One of the good characteristics of a MOSFET is that it has almost no resistance when turn on - 5 or so MilliOhms (0.005Ohms) - this equates to a dead short (almost) Did you notice your house lights dimming the other week - that could have been me. Any way after a great deal of head scratching (and other parts of my body) I had a brainwave. So between the two transistors I have inserted a resistor. Not a big one, just 5 Ohms but this is enough to limit the National grid draining short (should it happen). So the two transistors each have a job. The first one (we will call it #1) drives the motor to get the gear wheel around to the park position. This handles the motor current - apprx 2amps. The second transistor (yes that's it - #2) applies the regenerative braking of the armature.. If you short the slow speed motor wire (Red/Green) to earth when the motor is spinning with no power it will stop dead - very very dead. The problem I have is that I have put a resistor (10 Ohms) between the motor and earth. It stopped quite quickly but not dead stop. I reduced this to 5 Ohms and it stops much much better. Tomorrow I shall put a 1 Ohms resistor in the circuit - this should be pretty stoppy. A 1 ohm resistor will allow 12 amps to flow during a short - but !!! it will be for just a few milliseconds and the TRansistor will easily handle 30+ amps. So did it work. Yes. Even with the 5 ohm resistor in place it works very well. So tomorrow I will try the 1 Ohm resistor and then consider how it all mounts on the motor. I know most of you will not have a clue what I am rambling on about but there are a few here that will have a good smirk at my disasters. I tend to do minimal with my circuits and this can be a recipe for a disaster. But a good sense of achievement can be had when you confound the experts. When I finished I post the circuit diagram - just for a laugh. Roger
  24. 1 point
    Brave man Ben! ( to mention the unmentionable....to some)
  25. 1 point
    Are you checking the crankshaft nose, to ensure the oil seal......does it’s job.....can be fixed with a speedo sleeve if needed.
  26. 1 point
    Stuart that is truly tragic. Looks a lovely car and it will sell well. Just such a shame. Iain
  27. 1 point
    I used a heated nail to burn through the carpet to make holes. Could also use a soldering iron with an old tip
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    Poor thing. She won't much care for that.
  30. 1 point
    Penrite GB40 every time. TR Register shop used to sell it but I'm not sure of the present situation. Which was very handy- I could pick some up at the NEC, Stoneleigh etc. and save P+P.
  31. 1 point
    Good luck H ......I think your being very ambitious. Iain
  32. 1 point
    Is it leather bound? If so sure authentic, same as my TR5 wheel
  33. 1 point
    Put it in mintylamb http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/gearspeed/ its 57mph flat out in 4th !!!!!
  34. 1 point
    Hi Graham , yes you are right and sadly its true, Very strange to be happening in the Classic Car World, those that have defrauded people before were found out and didn't start up again. Some have gone to prison ! It's usually happening in the Double Glazing world and such like ! In this case it was so obvious after a period of time what was going to Happen, it was just a matter of when. It was reported to all Authorities but because the law is such, there was nothing that could be done....meanwhile Classic Car Owners are realed in and relieved of their car and their money, the car is then held as a Ransom....the law must be changed !!! Cheers Conrad.
  35. 1 point
    Not necessarily, it can be caused by a number of factors including and not limited to, water in the lines/ not draining separators/ too long lines to the spray gun/too cold when sprayed/car covers used in unsuitable conditions/unsuitable car covers/car polished too quickly after paint not allowing solvents to escape. Stuart.
  36. 1 point
    Andy, I stripped out an original pump and fitted a short piston, a spring, a Lucas switch and alloy end bung, thus externally it all looks original. If you want a copy of the sketch I made, send me a P.M. with an e-mail address. Regards, Richard
  37. 1 point
    Hi micro blister caused by car cover has been discussed here https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/71025-car-cover/&tab=comments#comment-644856 think it will be use the car as is or respray
  38. 1 point
    Hi Michael, Sandm Triumph Restoration Ltd went into Liquidation, they had already set up 4 other companies , one of which is Sandm classics, so they could seamlessly move Into another Ltd company as Directors, apparantly this is perfectly legal , Sarah Lambkin Smith, has since resigned as a Director in October 2019. From sandm classics Ltd. They are being Investigated by the Liquidators, I really hope they find out what really happened. Cheers Conrad.
  39. 1 point
    Better to have the one you have rebuilt properly and converted specifically to suit your car by Martin http://www.distributordoctor.com/ Stuart.
  40. 1 point
    Dear All, The ex Sebring TR4 has been invited to the 78th Members Meeting over the weekend of 28-29th March. It is entered in the Ronnie Hoare Trophy and will be driven by Josh. If anybody is coming along to Goodwood then do come and say hello, you will all be more than welcome. Keith
  41. 1 point
    may be the liquidator would like to know that he has these assets in containers. May be the missing parts from all those hurt by this ########## [ please add your own words here ] ROY
  42. 1 point
    Thankyou Waldi, I was thinking of Araldite, that should seal as well as bond.
  43. 1 point
    Roger, again, you have made the crucially good point. Now, and by further copy to all, what can we effectively do about it? - If we just wait for A. Westbury and chums to read this and ACT on members (and all decent TR drivers) behalf, I’m afraid we will be waiting for ever..... Do we have a mechanism to ‘encourage’ (I’m lost for the right word here) the BOD to start acting as correctly fitting and carrying out the role they are in place to do? On a final note, by copy to BOD, if I’ve got hold of the wrong end of the stick; still appreciate to know what, where and how?
  44. 1 point
    If you paid by paypal then raise a dispute and they will refund you.
  45. 1 point
    How right you are Suzanne. "The mentality of the new generation". I blame the TR Youth of today! I mean, just look at this bunch of hooligans! "Oh, the Mentality!!" Young whippersnappers. Next thing you know, they'll be changing the name of their club! Oops, too late!!
  46. 1 point
    Hi John, i recently fitted a carpet set to my TR4. Started at the back and worked forward with the floor carpets being fitted last. I was very happy with the overall fit in the end. Mine was a Moss loop pile set very close to the original grey for the car (LHD from US which was then modified to RHD with another heal mat). I fitted sound deadening sheets (mass loaded vinyl) beneath and waterproof foam carpet underlay before the carpet was fitted into place. I didn't want to use the felt as it can soak up moisture. The sound deadening has transformed the car. My day job is an acoustic engineer. I had to lengthen the studs for the carpet fixing. Used a longer screw and a spacer to lift it off the floor pan. The seat runners were bolted down directly. No need for any other fastenings. Again I used slightly longer bolts in this case and a spacer so the runners didn't crush the carpet and underlay and could move too. The tricky one for me was the gearbox cover. I ended up taking it out and making some access holes/hatches for overdrive etc. I then fitted foam overlay which was moulded to the tunnel shape and glued down. The carpet was then trial fitted in the car and then taken out and glued down around the top leaving the bottom area loose so the cover could be fixed down and around the acces holes. Ended up with no creases or sagging on the carpet. Take your time and do plenty of trial fits before committing. I made all my holes from the other side of the panels. Instead of randomly stabbing the carpet trying to find the holes. Plus wrap some tape around a drill bit if you do decide to drill through the carpet otherwise you will wrap the pile around the bit and have a real mess. Ended up using a scalpel to cut the holes. For the sill I didn't fit any underfelt as I wanted a close fit in those areas, but I did fill the small voids with sound deadening to make them flush. I also made sure the wiring loom was taped flat too against the edge of the sill. Happy to share more pictures if you like. Carpet set was a Christmas present to myself and fitted over the holiday. cheers Darran
  47. 1 point
    "Darling, I wanted to sell the car, but the market is down and sadly we have to keep it"
  48. 1 point
    This award is given to each year, to someone who has contributed significantly to motorsport of the past year. our very own Roger McEwen the clubs sprint and hill climb coordinator. Who has done us proud for years. Thank you Roger. so very well deserved I should have seen this earlier but to be honest I didn’t know the awards were announced read them all here https://www.tr-register.co.uk/article/2019/11/0210/TR-Register-Annual-Awards-2019
  49. 0 points
  50. -1 points
    I don't recall that Darren was treated with the same courtesy. Rgds Ian
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