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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/13/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Taking advantage of the first sunny day for weeks, 50+ miles around the Peak District....
  2. 3 points
    Black and white? Marcel.
  3. 2 points
    A common occurence is the rear lever arm shock absorbers working lose - I'd start with them first, only two bolts on each & difficult to get to & torque up properly hence the problems
  4. 2 points
    Well my opinion for what it is worth when the treasure hunters have made the cost of the cars way over the top there will not be many true Tr fans that can afford them and when the market goes pop fingers will get burned and club membership will carry on going down.The young ones have no chance in buying one,sad times alas.
  5. 2 points
    in the david attenborough voice "here we see a Tr6 resting in its den, prior to coming out in the daylight to hunt down its favorite prey the vulnerable MG"
  6. 1 point
    I am able to just lift the carpet to expose the plug without having to remove the H frame. My carpets probably look a bit frumpy, but are not very visible to other eyes. Also, since I am a yank, it is on the drivers side. Berry
  7. 1 point
    I`ve also remade the stop (extend the leg) to give more height as well. Stuart.
  8. 1 point
    British Motor Heritage are now offering an enhanced certificate (with photo!) as well as replacements and updates. www dot britishmotormuseum.co.uk/archive/heritage-certificates There are also images from photographs and brochures available on many British cars (choose the decade from 1890 so should cover all Triumphs!) at www dot motorgraphs.com/photos/marque/triumph/ Brian Ridley-Jones
  9. 1 point
    File the holes out further I`ve had to do this a number of times. Stuart.
  10. 1 point
    Although Colin had been threatening to retire fort some time, his decision was no doubt hastened by the redevelopment of Berry Farm for housing. I know we need lots of new housing but Berry Farm was a hive of industry with lots of small businesses operating from units that were right for their needs ie low cost Colin produced some good stuff, my TR2 is running on a 30 year old chassis and it still looks in good shape and Andy was a skilled body repairer and a craftsman with a spray gun Happy retirement Colin and well done Neil for picking up the baton (other chassis manufacturers are available) Phil
  11. 1 point
    Having had a good route around I may have found the issue ! I think a complete check / overhaul is in order will be down to Auto electrics Uxbridge next week. Just as well it was only the indicators, looks as if it could have been far more serious. Phil
  12. 1 point
    I usually use this Gravitex Stuart.
  13. 1 point
    Hi Rob I think even factory panels did not fit that well, considering the amount of lead they used to load into panel joins, especially up around the screen and door pillars. If you look at some old videos, there is a CKD BMC factory video in an Irish assembly plant showing them leading the joints. Kevin
  14. 1 point
    Hi John, yes, the brown bible states it correct (add the advance to the static for the number you read at engine running. Took me a couple of reads before I got that:) Waldi
  15. 1 point
    If your car is a TR4 with a solid axle, check the bump stops and their condition. Just changed mine (TR3), one was completely worn away and the other side displaced. You'll need to undo the four nuts securing the u-bolts and then jack up the axle to raise the axle off the chassis rail. Agree with comments on the lever arm bolts, difficult to undo and torque up again. Rob
  16. 1 point
    Hi Jo The fuel gauge is electric, I've just replaced the tank and the sender unit is the same as the one in my TR6. I'm almost certain that the temperature gauge is electric but will check and let you know. All the best Dave
  17. 1 point
    Also another thing that a lot of people forget when converting left to right is the captive nut in the left hand rear corner of the battery tray section for the dash support bar. Stuart.
  18. 1 point
    Yes as far as I know it is, fitted by PO back in about 1979 as only one avail. It's comes in handy as aligns with my new cold air inlet for even distribution of airflow to filters. Chris
  19. 1 point
    . After the frost had gone this morning, I decided to tackle this. My being on me own like - it went like this . . . ^ Just because it would have been too easy on the flat n' level, let's at least make it an uphill struggle ^ Then move the straps from being tied to the floor to being tied to the pallet. Theory was that it would be more stable. Whose idea was that ! ? With blocks and lever the motor ascended to dizzie heights. ..I'm not sure if Tutankhamun would have been proud of me or be turning in his Saatchi Gallery ! ^ Part B of the plan was to move the engine onto my home adapted motorcycle lift. That should take the weight shouldn't it . . . . shouldn't it ?? Shuffle., shuffle. Shuffle., shuffle. some more. *Crack* ..what was that ! ? ..can't go back now. Shuffle., shuffle. some more. Yeah ! Balance point ^ duhh., that pallet is bending quite a bit . . . ^ Raving Success !!! The bike lift, now with this heavyweight TR4A engine, is on rollers, so easily moved to under the block n' tackle I use as an aide when removing my Sunbeam (motorcycle) engines. With that tensioned (as a safety steady for the engine) the side blocks and straps could be removed. And it's now at a decent height to work on. I thought I could do get the engine out of the car on my own ..but of course one can never be 110% sure., and I'm darn sure it would hurt if I dropped it on my toe. !
  20. 1 point
    Re Engine number, 577 * * is July 65 so yours is probably May/June. Chris
  21. 1 point
    . Successfully viewed, purchased and collected today. engine number is near to CT56400E so that would be a 4A from mid-1965 (..I'm guessing). ..all I need to do now is to figure out how to get it out of the back of my Chrysler Voyager. Pete.
  22. 1 point
    Well done mike. Yet to get out with my new LSD
  23. 1 point
    Check that fan very carefully - I had one, and the car suddenly started vibrating badly. One of the blades had snapped off, and luckily it must have gone downwards, or it could have done a lot of damage to the bonnet. Pete
  24. 1 point
    I spy with my little eye...The tropical cooling fan - worth getting the engine just to sell that on. plus as you also say the sidescreen car rocker cover. ..and I see they took the rear lifting eye off (including head stud and nut) to remove the exhaust manifold. Looks like a 4A head - The inlet ports are smaller than the TR3A-4. which is not a bad thing. Cheers Peter W As Hamish has said these things mix and match OK. My 3A has 4A head and inlet manifold.
  25. 1 point
    Pete not sure it’s of any use to you. But this is my 3a lightened flywheel and the conversion to a diaphragm clutch. This needed the flywheel drilling and tapping to take the different clutch.
  26. 1 point
    On balance, I think Chris's solution beats Mr Revington's...just! Miles
  27. 1 point
    Most radiators in good condition should be able to withstand 13psi but this is nearly double the pressure Triumph designed the car to run at. Bearing that in mind I would question whether a 50+ year old heater matrix would be ok, also some of the hoses in particular the two heater hoses inside the car near the drivers left leg (RH drive cars) need to be in good condition and not too old. It's not only car tyres which degrade with age. A few years ago one of our members suffered second degree burns when one of those hoses blew off and covered his legs in boiling water, I was in convoy with him at the time and his legs were not a pretty sight, which prompted him and myself to fit a small alloy cover round the hoses to contain and deflect the water in case it happens again. This was at 7 psi, at 13psi more than double the amount of water would escape and in the footwell there is nowhere to move your legs out the way you are trapped! Chris
  28. 1 point
    The Tr6 has finally made it back from Virginia and now the restoration can begin. Initial “in the dark”inspection with a torch reveals solid floors, very little rust and basically a solid body. Yet to inspect the chassis but from what I can see, mostly good. Engine is noisy, no clunks but really noisy tappets. Carbs have a mind of their own and the engine runs hot in the short time I had it running. Fair amount of fuel around the engine bay so expect the pipe work to be perished. Didn’t run long as I didn’t want a bonfire having only just got her. Full examination on the weekend with daylight and fire extinguisher lol. First impressions..... could be a lot worse considering it was a picture purchase.
  29. 1 point
    When I did my 4a I had the chassis shot blasted which certainly found all the rot, theres not much point in pussy footing around with blasting as you need to know where all the rot is. I have a local company do all mine and they prime them right after in a red oxide weldable primer Stuart.
  30. 1 point
    UPDATE: I messaged Moss and they replied promptly that as assumed the cap should have had a top seal but some of their stock had them missing. They are sending a complete new cap with seal FOC, Excellent service. The morale of this saga being, If in any doubt about an item then ask the Forum and do contact the supplier not only for your own benefit but to avoid others having the same problem. Excellent service from Moss Chris
  31. 1 point
    Hi Jon, good result. I recommend to tap all the threaded holes while the chassis is “empty”, it makes installation of components much easier. From what I recall they are all UNF, a couple of sizes. The POR will be very hard, so be careful not to double cross the threads is some paint has entered the holes. Waldi
  32. 1 point
    Have a look at this site: good price for a pair. https://www.mgocspares.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.cgi?WD=deal led package&PN=Specials.html#aOFFERS_2dQP472A H4 Halogen Headlamps MG Spares are pleased to offer 7” H4 halogen headlamps suitable for right hand drive MGs manufactured by Q Parts (P/N M200on). Carefully designed for an original appearance, superior light distribution and optimal fit. Q Parts headlamps are type approved (‘E’ marked), offered either with pilot featuring a flat lens to suit rubber bumper MGs or without pilot featuring a rounded/convex lens to suit chrome bumper MGs. Suitable for owners upgrading from sealed beam headlamps or requiring replacement H4 units. Assemblies are supplied in pairs with 60/55w H4 halogen bulbs, rubber weatherproof boot and installation instructions. Headlamps featuring pilot light additionally include original style rubber bumper headlamp loom with authentic weatherproof boot, pilot bulbs and angled locating grommets. Only £29.95! Price: £29.95 / €32.65 / US $32.20 (Including VAT at 20% except $ price) I found this in this months Practical classics, although the advert in there shows a package deal which includes the LED bulbs (page 15) all for £99.95 Bob
  33. 1 point
    Glad you've found and fixed it. Thank you for posting the follow up, it's always good to hear how a problem was resolved, whether or not the advice here helped. Nigel
  34. 1 point
    It has been a pleasure thanks Roger. I bought the car in two trailer loads in Feb 2017. One with the unpainted but prepared chassis with a partly restored body loosely bolted to it. The chassis was on wheels but with no suspension bushes or restoration done, just assembled from parts to move it around the garage. The other trailer had engine, gearbox etc, interior, instruments and everything else. All the original upholstery etc came with it. The body and chassis went to the body shop where he set it up to restore the body. Once he had what he needed he took the body off and I took the chassis home. I restored the chassis and drive train and had a running engine, running gear, suspension, brakes, steering etc to reunite it with the body. He completed the body. Once the body and chassis were reunited I completed the restoration. I have owned another TR2 for 43 years which I did a body off on in the early 80s. I knew how it went together. I am the 3rd owner, the 2nd bought it in 1966 from the original owner and he comes down to check my work every few months. 70,000 or so miles possibly original. Original engine etc. I'm pretty excited at having the opportunity to bring this car back to how it left the dealer in Perth in late 54. Signal red, brown leather and fawn top etc.
  35. 1 point
    I have 3 engines running on megasquirt, two Stag engines and a Rover V8. Once they are set up properly they don't need to be touched again unless you alter the mechanical parts of the engine or exhaust system. The only time I have had problems was when on one of the cars the the 1980s throttle potentiometer started to give problems and I was able to swap it for another I had in stock. The most difficult part of setting up is the cold start, so if it starts ok then an hour or two on a rolling road will get a full fuel and ignition map done. I went megasquirt because I knew that if I managed to get the first car up and running myself, I had several more to get done and will probably be doing my 4th one next year. It worked out much cheaper doing it that way. If the current owner has a laptop with the megasquirt program and the leads to plug it in, get him to show you how it works. Neil
  36. 1 point
    Really? Ive never found that, especially on the 4 cylinder where there is lots of low down torque. Agreed about "A" series engines, Frogeye Sprites went better on a single 1 1/2" than two 1 1/4" but why strangle the performance on a TR engine which is a totally different animal, its a sports car after all. Stuart. Stuart.
  37. 1 point
    The ideal setup is one venturi for each cylinder. Consider that many multi-cylinder bikes (i.e. Honda CB750) have one carb for each cylinder. I had an Alfa Spider with twin DCOE Webers. Each cylinder then had its own venturi for optimal air flow. Modern fuel injected engines use the same basic approach.
  38. 1 point
    I Guys Sorry for late response. Yes Installation very straight forward, there's a multi plug and a separate Aerial connector all clearly labelled. Took me around 15 minutes Andy
  39. 1 point
    Hope these are of use Steve: Supplying Dealer Key Fob from an original unrestored 1967 TR4A Supplying Dealer Key Fob from my old original unrestored 1970 TR6: Supplying Dealer Plate, fitted to to door card of my 1958 TR3A: Cheers, Andrew
  40. 1 point
    Hi Erik, Is this what you are looking for? http://trf.zeni.net/TR4-GB/216.php?s_wt=1920&s_ht=1080 Cheers Graeme
  41. 1 point
    Kev, a search indicates your Bower purchased Caliber is branded several ways on this end . One is a Blaupunkt model @ C$24.99 and another calledTagital< both look the same and cheap. In the US, Walmart had them at $10.99 at one point and there are YouTube posting on these. From what I gather, Bosch sold the brand in 2016 to a Chinese entity and we now now see the outcome. Not the Blaupunkt we knew...but now have something to check out. Thanks for the Bower link. Alf
  42. 1 point
    Good choice! I picked the same.
  43. 1 point
    Agree, any gear oil used will be GL4.
  44. 1 point
    Interesting that is seem to say Cibie on the lens. Stuart.
  45. 1 point
    Here's mine at Lincoln Cheers Dave.
  46. 1 point
    Black & white picture I took in about 1981/2 at Cardiff castle grounds.
  47. 1 point
    +1 for Roger's advice. I don't know C&M but can certainly recommend TRGB. But before committing to a full engine rebuild, are you certain the problem isn't just a blown head gasket? Nigel
  48. 1 point
    Photos of both sides of the engine The fuse boxes are on the wrong side because I used a TR5 wiring loom (a mistake) you can see the relays above the fuses on the inner wing - for O/D and spots any questions? Hope it helps MichaelH
  49. 1 point
    I have these three of one of my cars in build. And these of when my race car was in build. David
  50. 1 point
    Don't forget to cut the bottom of the hose at 45deg (not flat) to avoid it vacuuming to the bottom of the bottle ! I fitted a heavy duty plastic hose, cut to length
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