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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Morning all, got the job finished gearbox out the only thing that got in the way was the flap on the bottom of the heater. Now got to clean all parts take off and tidy up things under the dash as there is loads of room now. Mike. Redrose group
  2. 3 points
    I don't know what all the fuss was about. 5 blokes and 4 women.Took around 55 seconds and zero damage! Roger M-E
  3. 3 points
    If you can't make a J type slip you aren't driving it hard enough
  4. 2 points
    My two grandkids love Yellow Peril, that’s the nickname
  5. 2 points
    Hi Gareth, see attached for my simple circuit roger TR4A lights alarm.docx
  6. 2 points
    Hi, went to Stafford with five other Jersey cars, three of whom had never been to a IWE. sorry but, despite the work that clearly went into it, the venue was a big disappointment. everything was so much smaller scale, access in and out was a nightmare, didn’t bother with the sat night as the marque didn’t look to appealing. Lets not go there again, I know we won’t. cheers Guy
  7. 1 point
    I guess it shows a good working and well adjusted PCV valve. Had to make some modifications on it to get it work as it should because it is not an original part but a scrap repro part. These Chinese do not know what we need this part for.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    If they are then theyre well worn, just measured a new pair and they are 1/2" thick Stuart.
  10. 1 point
    Try connecting orange to + and black to earth. If it buzzes you may only need those two across the dash lamp.
  11. 1 point
    I'd look at the cable connections/terminations for signs of Verdigris/oxidation as this will lead to increased resistance and heat Remake any dodgy ones. Old copper wiring itself can deteriorate/oxidise (goes black) again leading to increased resistance if you remake the connections and you have enough wire strip it back 4-5 cm and see if its nice and shiny.
  12. 1 point
    For info - I made my compressor using 12mm screwed rod. It has worked faultlessly for several years. Just clean it after use, inspect it for any damage or deterioration and put it away until you use again or more likely lend it to somebody else. When I made it I asked a Stess engineer colleague to calculate the stress involved using the spring rates and compressions involved in worst case TR application. He concluded that that using a commercial quality M12 bar was more than adequate and that even a M6 rod would be adequate to safely take the loads involved but with less margin for wear or damage. I see no reason to make one from anything larger, stronger, heavier or more expensive. Regards Rog
  13. 1 point
    On my third one now and I think they fit and look good. Most wouldn't know they were fibreglass. I was able to get them painted body colour prior to Honeybourne fitting the window. The TR250 has red vinyl lining fitted too. I would recommend them unless you want to pay £1000's for a real one. Colin
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    My TR4 (4VC) is on twin HS6s, and I use choke to start, but within a mile or so, it's no longer required. On a couple of occasions some years ago, I drove 3VC to NEC car shows, and I found it completely different. Two pumps on the Webers to start, but I had to drive about 10 or 12 miles before it finally ceased to stall, hick and spit. The SUs don't give the ultimate in performance, but they are far more user-friendly! Ian Cornish
  16. 1 point
    Hello All This went to its new owner recently(not mine just used to maintain it for a mate) I have the Viper version but now 500cc Roger
  17. 1 point
    Just as a matter of interest - whereabouts are you locating the centre pin of your new two leg puller? I would have thought that if you re-fitted the main bolt & screwed it in all the way & then back it off a few mm, put the centre pin of your puller against the head of the bolt & tighten a little the whole lot - pulley & washer (or whatever it is) would slide off together without any great effort?
  18. 1 point
    I can't remember the TR7 wiring but i don't think there is a main fuse. I think the power actually goes to the starter solenoid and then the wires come from there to the ignition etc. So take a look at the solenoid connections. The solenoid doesn't need to work (it does to start the vehicle) its just where the wires come together. So if there is no connection at the solenoid nothing will work.
  19. 1 point
    You do really need to fit the captive nuts/cages and use the right short pointy set screws as its a fiddle anyway to get those bolts in and that way you can get them in without being directly in line, as stated use plenty of copperslip and then lots of waxoyl and you wont have any future dismantling problems, when I stripped the wings and door off mine after 25yrs to repair the accident damage they all came out no bother at all. Stuart.
  20. 1 point
    Thanks for that Pete. I thought they looked and felt like it but as they seemed to be working and were in good visible condition I wasn't going to cut one up to check. Chris
  21. 1 point
    You're durn tooting ! Mick Richards
  22. 1 point
    This is my granddaughter helping me build a late TR5 engine. (which went into a concours winner) Under supervision Levi fitted the pistons ,conrods etc and enjoyed the experience. Hopefully will be driving (my keeper) Jasmine TR5 some day soon. Both my daughters have driven the TR5 and it is there for them to enjoy. Love the pictures guys. Andrew we have something in common apart from TR,s and it took me a long time to get over it but you will come out the other side. Regards HarryTR5 Nutter
  23. 1 point
    Thats great Andrew, these cars need to be driven regularly and you get to have some fun with the kids. Hope you are doing well. Stan
  24. 1 point
    I have put something similar via an oil pressure switch on my 4 for oil pressure warning. It includes a very loud buzzer to get my attention when the roof is down and I am not checking the pressure gauge, and follows an incident a few years ago where I lost all pressure when the pump drive sheared at 60mph+ - by the time I noticed the gauge it was too late! It goes live with the ignition, but to avoid frightening the neighbourhood incorporates a 10 second delay on start up (only). May be able to find the details if anybody is interested. Mike
  25. 1 point
    Hi Andy. Mine has an A type overdrive, & as supplied the rear casing of the overdrive would have required an adaptor plate to mount it in the TR. However, as I was having the overdrive rebuilt anyway, I got the company (Hardy Engineering) to change the casing for one which fitted the TR (actually from a Healy 3000) I suspect your J type O/D will also have the wrong type of mounting, & so you may not be able to use the setup which I have - which is the standard TR4 type exhaust bracket fixed to the normal TR gearbox mount. Bob.
  26. 1 point
    I TRY not to give the benefit of the doubt to items which can kill me or others, … call me old fashioned. Mick Richards
  27. 1 point
    Thank you all for your welcoming comments. I am eager to get going on the TR4. My uncle had one in the 60s when I was small and my fond recollections of the sounds, smell and feel of being in the car remain today. I have spent time in the Pennington Arms- stayed there. As to relations at the castle, my ancestral Pennington's landed in New Haven, Connecticut in the early 1600's. I tie in with the current Pennington's in the castle from way back, so I am related little more than in name but for an American mongrel it is very fun to see my family name associated with the castle there. We met the owners a couple times before the raptor center was established, had a private tour by Patrick Gordon-Duff-Pennington once, during which he talked at length about the great need for and the cost of a new roof. He was so nice to us and was an entertaining and charming gentleman. We miss that area and hope to visit England and Muncaster again.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    oh yeah nice looking car, three up to stainless.
  32. 1 point
    Hi Marco, TR Register members have access to some additional information and forums. I’m a member of the UK TR Register, not from the Dutch TRCH. Alec’s Inn is “the bar forum” where anything, also not TR related can be discussed (whithin normal limits). It is named to honour and remember Alec Pringle who was a very high respected member of the forum, and who did a lot for this club. Alec passed away last year, and is missed by many on this forum. Best regards, Waldi
  33. 1 point
    Thanks Gary. I have a set of metering unit spanners from this guy which are very nicely made. And yes I could make a set myself "If not I may well knock a set up myself. " Regards Chris
  34. 1 point
    Trial fit and tested - tomorrow's job is to touch up the surrounding paintwork, dig out some appropriate spades and sleeves, final fit, re-grease the pivot points and then fit the LED conversions I got from from Bob in Feb. Cheers, Andrew
  35. 1 point
    That's me, LFB 700K. I must have made it to Stratford,seems a long time ago now. Cameron
  36. 1 point
    Hi Mike, before pulling the cable out - mark the wiper arm spindles (draw a vertical line across them) - rotate the spindle 120' before refitting Remember the orientation of the cable in the motor. - rotate the cable 180' before refitting. The above will use unworn parts of both parts (assuming they hadn't already been turned over). Use a fairly light grease that doesn't go too stiff in cold weather. There is a pulling tension test outlines in the WSM on the rack cable. If you are not a concourse advocate then seriously consider the TR6 14W motor. These are cheap and plentiful and work very well. Roger
  37. 1 point
    Hi Ian, Worth watching the Superseal video to see how to put them together. https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/12-volt-planet-tv.html Well if all these things didn't go wrong you would just be driving around enjoying yourself :-) Cheers Paul.
  38. 1 point
    A properly repaired shell shouldnt need them. Ive done quite a few and when you get to the paint stage you have to remove them anyway. Two man job to lift and fit a bare shell to a chassis Stuart.
  39. 1 point
    Hi Ian With regards to joining different the looms of different wire thickness these AMP connectors give you the flexibility you need. Select Yellow/red/green for different wire thicknesses but they use the same connectors of whichever size required 1 - 6.Note the terminals and coloured seals make the difference. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-AMP-Tyco-Superseal-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector-Box-Set-1-to-6-Way/132080540628?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 So it is possible to buy a 6 way 1.5-2.5 connector and a 6 way .5 to 1.5 - that would give you 2 x 6 way connections. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Way-Genuine-AMP-Superseal-Waterproof-Electrical-Wiring-Multi-Connector-/140938481537?hash=item20d0968f81 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Way-Genuine-AMP-Superseal-Electrical-Connector-Wire-Size-1-5mm-2-5mmsq-/140938481489?hash=item20d0968f51 NB - back to where you started you need the correct crimp tool! Keep going though - I had so many issues with my installation, the throttle bodies had to go back, I blew a fuse in the Megasquirt unit, Head gasket went,Gearbox fork pin broke etc etc the wiring was mostly the easy bit :-) Regards Paul
  40. 1 point
    Stuart You beat me to it while I was typing my edit and fighting the dog off of my bacon sandwich George
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    This is one I fitted a few years ago. Stuart
  43. 1 point
    Central heating Immersion heater element fitting ?
  44. 1 point
    My servo has seen silicone for 25 years, including a period when oil was leaking past the m/c seals. Some oil may have been sucked into the servo, but it works fine. I'd far rather have silicone oil lubircated servo than glycol -water and resulting rust. Peter
  45. 1 point
    Look in the fridge, the obvious places are the best. Glad your doing well and keeping amused. x
  46. 1 point
    Steel helmet on at 45 degree angle against blast...incoming. Mick Richards
  47. 1 point
    Not in my TR, but several there from the London group. Kempton Pumping station museum, open day plus (small) Classic Car show. Two tripple expansion steam engines one of which was running. Bob.
  48. 1 point
    Yep the daughter is going out to Japan for the rugby and GPYour turn next and we will be there
  49. 1 point
    The real trick is finding a good brush to put the paint on with. Steer away from these new fangled rollers
  50. 1 point
    If you wnet to Stafford, no wonder you were disappointed!
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