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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/06/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Some B & W photos of mine : As purchase (£40) A few months after Doing a bit of work
  2. 2 points
    As has been said by many now we have lost one of a kind and a true gent, I can neither recall nor imagine anyone ever having a bad word to say about Derek and that is an epitaph given to few. I remember very well the first time I met him, when I went with father to our first Club Triumph North London meeting in the summer of 1974. Derek made us both very welcome but as soon as he found out our mount was a 4A he proceeded to extol the superior virtues of the live axle TR4 and continued to do so for the next 45 years if prompted! Derek was sad a few months ago to have to part with his one owner from new and truly original TR4, leaving him for the first time in over 60 years without a Triumph of some kind in the garage. However, as he said, advancing years meant that he could no longer do justice to the car by driving it in the manner to which it had become accustomed. The car is now with its new custodian, a Club member, who will cherish it. Entry #1 has been reserved for this car on the 2020 RBRR as a fitting tribute to Derek, who never actually drove it in the event, preferring for some strange reason to use his original factory RHD TR8, MVC 128V, on seven Runs from 1982 - 1994 inclusive. To his surprise we were able to reunite Derek with this car at Bicester Heritage on Drive it Day 2016. RIP Derek Tim
  3. 2 points
    My 4a on the front at Looe Stuart.
  4. 2 points
    Dartmoor . December . '18 Deggers
  5. 1 point
    Hello David Ok no problem but here are pics of my 'repair'. First pic shows the worn bits below and the 2 rubber ferrules I found above. Second pic shows repair on left and original on right. Not exactly the same shape but does the job. Keith
  6. 1 point
    There was an extensive thread about this a couple of years ago. IIRC someone did some measurements that showed the coating does very little. Found it :
  7. 1 point
    Something very dramatic about a black and white pic, this is mine at the Moffat show.
  8. 1 point
    Hi folks, the SU H6 and HS6 are such a genius construction! So ridiculous simple, even without a idle jet! On my TR4A the HS6 do never suffer from any heat, not in any case. Even not at the hottest summer day (38 deg. C this year). Anything about a heat shield on the TR4A in my opinion is wishfull thinking of not existing problems. Check it, touch them anytime and any case after and before you drive the car. The TR6 may be different, but I have doubts about this. Ciao, Marco
  9. 1 point
    Our Geranium TR2 long-door at Bo'ness hill climb September 1954, Scottish RAC Rally 1954 and this years IWE
  10. 1 point
    1953 Ariel KH 500 twin, all original with an unusual twist grip dip switch such a good idea.
  11. 1 point
    OK I sought of thought this might Marmite. I don't care if Mild Steel wrapped rots, in fact from my own empirical real world testing it does. I don't really care if Stainless headers turn to Blue Cheese after 3 years, What I do care about is under bonnet temperatures and how hot my carbs get. Cold Carbs = Good, Hot Carbs = Bad. At Prescott in early July when it was hot I was measuring a few carb temperatures on cars when they returned to paddock and some were at the temperature where if the float chambers had been open to atmosphere the current batch of crap we call fuel would have been dam near boiling, whereas on my car with wrapped headers and a large amount of heat shielding I was recording temperatures about 20C lower. On a hot day sit on the start line for 5 mins with engine up to temp and nothing but the fan keeping the engine at working temp and very little air flow through the under bonnet and things get hot. So just when you want everything working properly its all hot, then you ask the engine to give its best for 60 secs before any air flow is going to have any significant effect So if a set of wrapped or coated headers only lasts 4 years, just think of it as a wear item. In my experience every time you remove wrapped headers, it starts falling apart, and requires some remedial or a re-wrap, and if your doing that once a year and using good wrap not the cheap fibreglass stuff, then over 3-4 years its probably not far off the cost of ceramic coating. So I'm not worried about the cost (well no more than I normally am, which is usually) what I can't find anywhere is someone, anyone who has actually measured the difference in the same (or similar) cars between the two. Sorry I have reached the age when someone says product x is way better than product y, i want some facts not just vague supposition. I'll coat if it really works as well as wrap as it will save some hassle, but I don't wan't want to coat and then find I have to wrap as well. Alan
  12. 1 point
    I " ceramic " coated my headers to (1) reduce the surface temperature since they're directly below the Webers, (2) reduce the noise a little and (3) make them look prettier. I never reckoned to reap a performance reward . Cheers, Tom
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