Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/07/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Veeerrry impressive Chris, superb drive and it sounds magnificent. Dave McD
  2. 1 point
    They are NOT engineers, they are technicians. Sorry to say that the title Engineer has been degraded, soiled, whatever by gross misuse in the UK. On the Continent, one would not be able to use the equivalent of Engineere without suitable qualification - one thing which the Continentals have got right! End of rant! Ian Cornish
  3. 1 point
    I would leave it off until you've refurbished the rest of the suspension and you decide to start using the car for competition. Pete
  4. 1 point
    John As a "fairly competent DIYer " there is nothing scary about fitting you own tonneau. A few disclaimers as always. The whole thing will go smoother if you have the following available. Given that we are now in October , no longer seeing temperatures of 30 degrees plus , a garage that you can heat up, so that the PVC / vinyl can stretch. Another separate clean area , where you can lay the tonneau down on to punch the holes ( five in shape ) for the Lift the Dot fixings. A Lift the Dot punch ( Essential ! )… not cheap so borrow from a local Club Member if you can. I experimented with scrap material , a hole punch and trying to cut 4 surrounding tiny slits for the tangs. Disaster. Bit the bullet and bought the right tool for my hood and tonneau fitting.The tangs on the Lift the Dot can be knocked over with a small Warrington type hammer. Check out what body fittings you have on the car , see : - https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/tonneau-covers-hood-stowage-tr5-6-1967-76.html Remember the Lift the dot fasteners need to be installed the "right way up ". Don't assume that the studs in the body work are fitted in the exact position. Replace any damaged ones now , before you start. Mark centre line on the tonneau with masking tape. Start at the front , bottom edge of the windscreen. Centre one first , then outside corners of the screen. To assist in "getting it right , first time " use chalk. ( Blackboard or Tailor's variety ). Rub on the top of the peg and press the underside of the tonneau. Remove away from vehicle. With a thick sailmaker's needle or small thin nail put through the centre of the chalk mark. This will enable you to " centre " the punch tool correctly. Use a decent size lump of 4" by 2" smooth wood as your bench. The punch needs a hefty whack for a clean cut of one hole and four slits at one go ! Delicate use of a club hammer works well. Some people crack on and knock out the holes at one go. I preferred to fix the fasteners , one at a time ,.. ? time consuming , yes but that way you can get the next position marked correctly. Fixing it , you can pull against the peg / installed Lift the Dot and tension the material for the next peg , rubbing on the chalk again. And so on and so on.That way the finished article looks taunt , rather than flapping in the breeze and collecting puddles of water when it rains !. Alternate to different sides of the car to keep things taunt all the way through the fitting. So , order... recap , Fittings at front under the windscreen.Then move to the rear cockpit area , centre two to start really pulling to get rid of any wrinkles. Move alternately , offside and nearside of the car. This time when pulling backwards , induce a slight bias towards the outside of the car that you're dealing with. This way you won't acquire "diagonal wrinkles ". Mark up with chalk each time. The top of the doors , experiment !! Hold the flappy bit ( technical term ) , leading edge and trailing edge in two hands and pull it down to the top of door. This is where you need to use your third hand or a willing helper ! Your mission is to try and find the best position / compromise to eliminate the sags , wrinkles and loose bits. Again put some masking tape tabs on , to assist your deliberation process. As you tug at each position individually , you will see that it distorts the outcome. Only when you're happy go for it.I suggest you fix the centre first and then the outside ones afterwards. Last but not least don't forget the " tail " on the tonneau. This dangles inside the car and fixes to the side of the seat frame.The idea is to prevent the tonneau billowing , when air gets under the tonneau , when on the move / driver only / passenger side covered. Warning a previous owner may have removed the peg ( not knowing what it was for ). Some people decide they can't be bothered with the tail and cut off the tail. Time wise I'd allocate a full day. But take it at your own speed , you only want it do it once. Choice of materials is in my view a case of personal preference. I have a mohair hood and tonneau but PVC and double duck are also readily available. Cost is always a consideration , as is " how long are you going to keep the car for ? ". PVC is easier for a DIYer to work on. My mantra is always your car , your decision ! PM me if you want any further help / guidance and I'll see what I can do. Good luck with it Bob
  5. 1 point
    You're durn tooting ! Mick Richards
  6. 1 point
    Hi, no they fit into the holes. Thanks for the reply. Gz Jo
  7. 1 point
  8. 1 point
    Neither of my kids (25 and 22) are anywhere close to producing grandchildren yet, so this is Charlie, aged 6 when the photo was taken. Charlie has been with me every step of the way on my restoration and now enjoys trips in the passenger footwell or sitting on the diff bridge. This is a great thread by the way
  9. 1 point
    This is my granddaughter helping me build a late TR5 engine. (which went into a concours winner) Under supervision Levi fitted the pistons ,conrods etc and enjoyed the experience. Hopefully will be driving (my keeper) Jasmine TR5 some day soon. Both my daughters have driven the TR5 and it is there for them to enjoy. Love the pictures guys. Andrew we have something in common apart from TR,s and it took me a long time to get over it but you will come out the other side. Regards HarryTR5 Nutter
  10. 1 point
    I have always liked these wheels so I ordered a set of four (ARE Silverstone mk11 from Canada £800 delivered) and am very happy with the copies. They are not so light as the magnesium ones but much lighter than the minilite/K&N etc. Regards HarryTR5 Nutter
  11. 1 point
    Hi Roger, Thanks for the compliment. The photo was taken in early September, somewhere high up in Italy. I cant be too exact as we were on the Club Triumph 10 Country run and at times it was all bit of a blur but bloody good fun. I would say the cars colour is an Old English White but cant be more exact than that as the car underwent a renovation in the late 90's and I have only had the car for 14 years.
  12. 1 point
    Wow !... and Wow again. Congratulations Chris you must be very very happy now with the TR, major steps this season even since I saw you and we talked at Brands Hatch. The TR looks very happy on that track and with no obvious vices I could pick up showing the work and your changes to it are paying off. Your driving of it is of the very highest order and from about 8th ? on the grid, if you can qualify at nearer to pole position...*you're in the groove Jackson ! Mick Richards * Road to Rio 1947. Bing Crosby, and Bob Hope.
  13. 1 point
    Russell, I would not sweat getting the pistons and liners out intact. A new set is likely in your destiny anyway and they are very affordable. Under $500 for the set and will give you a few more cc's with the 87mm kit without getting into esoteric head gasket issues. Stan
  14. 1 point
    Hello John and welcome to both the TR Register and the Forum, I will PM you with the contact details of a chap generally regarded as the best one man gearbox, overdrive and diff overhauler. based in the Worcester area. I don't like putting his details on the open forum. Don't know where you are on the Country, but if you don't want to use the chap above, another reputable company is Overdrive Repair Services in Sheffield, Tele 0114 248 2632. Regards Dave McDonald
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Two and a half years ago, I paid £900 for a set of four ARE Continental wheels as my son thinks they would look better than the TR6 steel wheels which I have been using for some 49 years - and Kastner fitted them to the other three Works TR4s when they went over to America for the Shell 4000 Rally in 1964. Mine will need to be cleaned and treated, should I wish to fit them. Ian Cornish
  17. 1 point
    I have the same wheels, and I've been told they are worth more than the car! You need to see my car to appreciate the remark (rescued from breaking by the skin of its teeth). I also heard that they are made if Magnesium, and one down side is the possibility of cracking. Sadly the original 'NokOf' centre spinners I have are a bit of a mess - and are very hard to find at an affordable price - still looking for an alternative. And, I see you have centre caps - do they screw on?
  18. 1 point
    Hi Jo, take care with the new wheels. The lacquer used over the diamond cut is cheap stuff. It will allow moisture through and the ali will start to corrode. If at all possible recoat with a 2K laquer Roger
  19. 1 point
    I think you will find they are worth a lot. Especially with those looking for period wheels. have a search on this site for past discussions like this last year
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.