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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/09/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Roy I have had two of the things give up on me, the 1st lasted 6 months and gave up the ghost shortly after I changed the rear wheel cylinders. I suspect it had worn a ridge in the bore and with the different stroke the seal was crossing the ridge which caused the failure. I replaced the MC with another new one which I was assured was from a different manufacturer and were much better, this one started leaking this Summer after 2 years of use, absolute rubbish. I have now dug out my original MC of 1972 vintage and had Past Parts recondition it, I should add I have used Past Parts for a T type MG I used to own with no issues apart from the car will be off the road for a few week. Needless to say I will never trust one of these aftermarket master cylinders again and would not recommend anyone else to. George
  2. 1 point
    Gareth, just captured your post, only to say when you increase the load (i.e. more bulbs) in the lighting circuit, more current (amps) are drawn; this will increase the heat in the indicator flasher unit causing a more rapid movement of the mechanism (guess its still a bimetallic strip of old). In summary what you witnessed was correct. In the olden days when a main indicator bulb failed, there wasn't enough current to operate the flasher and hence the other main bulb just stayed on! Best Regards Trevor
  3. 1 point
    Hi Gareth, my 6 has orange lens on the side rears, when I replaced the seals a couple of months ago I saw there was a bulb and lead not connected, so I piggy backed it onto the indicators. They work fine with no adverse affect. Cheers, Vince.
  4. 1 point
    I'm sure you will have to have the MU recalibrated if you get some red springs, but if you want to be adventurous, take off the black cap on the MU, mark the position of the screws/rings, undo only the largest lower ring, and turn the whole set anticlockwise, perhaps a 1/4 of a turn at a time and restart, but put the black cap back on and this will make sure to hold the vacuum. Screwing anti clockwise will weaken the mixture, clock wise will enrich the mixture. Doing it this way changes all the settings at the same time, if it doesn't make an improvement put it back to where you started, and have the unit calibrated correctly. Have you tried Neil Ferguson for the springs, sometimes he's on here?
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