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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/25/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Wayne Scott TR7 and Phil Tucker TR3 at 26mins A few of the Devon Group spent the day spectating at Simms. Believe me when I say that it’s a lot steeper than it looks on screen. Its worth watching it all; some entrants seem to have gone out of their way to find the least suitable vehicles!
  2. 2 points
    Hi John, i recently fitted a carpet set to my TR4. Started at the back and worked forward with the floor carpets being fitted last. I was very happy with the overall fit in the end. Mine was a Moss loop pile set very close to the original grey for the car (LHD from US which was then modified to RHD with another heal mat). I fitted sound deadening sheets (mass loaded vinyl) beneath and waterproof foam carpet underlay before the carpet was fitted into place. I didn't want to use the felt as it can soak up moisture. The sound deadening has transformed the car. My day job is an acoustic engineer. I had to lengthen the studs for the carpet fixing. Used a longer screw and a spacer to lift it off the floor pan. The seat runners were bolted down directly. No need for any other fastenings. Again I used slightly longer bolts in this case and a spacer so the runners didn't crush the carpet and underlay and could move too. The tricky one for me was the gearbox cover. I ended up taking it out and making some access holes/hatches for overdrive etc. I then fitted foam overlay which was moulded to the tunnel shape and glued down. The carpet was then trial fitted in the car and then taken out and glued down around the top leaving the bottom area loose so the cover could be fixed down and around the acces holes. Ended up with no creases or sagging on the carpet. Take your time and do plenty of trial fits before committing. I made all my holes from the other side of the panels. Instead of randomly stabbing the carpet trying to find the holes. Plus wrap some tape around a drill bit if you do decide to drill through the carpet otherwise you will wrap the pile around the bit and have a real mess. Ended up using a scalpel to cut the holes. For the sill I didn't fit any underfelt as I wanted a close fit in those areas, but I did fill the small voids with sound deadening to make them flush. I also made sure the wiring loom was taped flat too against the edge of the sill. Happy to share more pictures if you like. Carpet set was a Christmas present to myself and fitted over the holiday. cheers Darran
  3. 2 points
    Hi Folks, I like dabbling with electronics. I haven't a trained clue what I'm doing but then what did DaVinci know when started out. Back in November my 18 month TR6 (14W) wiper motor would not turn off. The park switch had failed and so the wipers didn't know where they were. Upon inspection of the park switch it was obvious that the construction and materials was rubbish. The pin had worn down (in 18 months) and so wasn't actuating the change over switch. I do not know the mortality rate of these things but clearly a contact type switch is always prone to wear. So technology is required. There is a natty little device called a Hall Effect sensor. Turns on and off in the proximity to a magnetic field. So first thing is get some 5mm diameter magnets and set them into the Gearwheel cam. ( thank you Ebay) My initial design worked well and was easily constructed but it used a relay to mimic the rubbish park switch. Although this relay was very good quality and would easily last 2,000,000 or more operations it defeated the idea of having a non mechanical switch. So how to re-create a mechanical change over switch using transistors (or other psychic phenomena) Keeping the power running whilst the dashboard switch is flipped to park is easy. Series power TRansistor from 12V to the NG park wire on the switch. But (there is always a but) the original system has a brake to stop the motor dead in its tracks. On a big motor this is called regenerative braking but on a small motor it s called plugging. I couldn't make a 'normal' TRansistor operate this brake. Partly because I did not know the voltages or current required or in fact what I was doing !!! So into new Technology (for me at least). MOSFET's are not very new but are still finding applications all over the place. The beauty of a MOSFET is that when they conduct (switch on) they have virtually no resistance across them (typically 5mi;li Ohms) and thus very little power/heat is produced. So we we now have a 'Hall Effect' sensor to see where the gearwheel is. This drives a TRansistor to sort out the phase of the signals. This TRanny feeds the input (Gate) of a pair of MOSFET's. One is a P channel and the other is a N channel this simply means they are opposite sense. When one is on the other is off. So when the sensor does not see the magnet the P channel allow the motor to run. The N channel is off and has no effect. When the Hall Effect sensor sees the magnet the first TRansistor changes phase and the P channel turns off stopping current to the wiper motor but of no other effect. However at this instantaneous point the N channel comes on line and shorts the power being produced by the wiper motor (back EMF and all that stuff) to earth. The motor stops quicker than the quickest thing that ever stopped quickly. When the motor is switched on the park switch is bypassed and normal service ir resumed. I'll post a circuit drawing later on if anybody is interested. Hopefully all the miraculous things going ion above will fit into a very small box and fit where the existing switch goes. You will be glad to know that during these experiments there were fatalities. And, it is surprising to know the Joe Lucas's smoke has found its way to China. It escaped in profuse clouds And yes the motor works exactly as it should. Roger
  4. 2 points
    Hi Pete, yes, the block was cast in sand, but Tom’s advice above is sound. For my TR6 block I had the block cleaned in an industrial washer used in large shops, think it used caustic. Next, the water side I cleaned with phosphoric acid, 30% ish. Same with the head. That was the wrong sequence. I should have first done the acid treatment of the waterways. No matter how much I cleaned them afterwards with a waterhosr, during start-up I had brown coolant from stuff (deposits) that was not removed before. I flushed again with water, then used a chemical cleaner from an automotive shop for cooling systems, flushed again and now my coolant stays clear. I would not conserve the engine inside and also not the water system, for fear of paint flaking off, no matter how good you think it is cleaned. The cast iron is porous, so 3-6 decades of oil penetrating in the casting cannot be made undone in all area’s. The water system is protected from further corrosion by the coolant. The external I painted with a PU black air (moisture) curing paint. Waldi
  5. 2 points
    Evening Pete, no you have not missed my posts, I am finding yours most interesting. At the moment I don’t have the time to carry out such a time consuming rebuild. I was losing a lot of oil from the push rod tubes and the catch tank was getting more oil in than usual. Did a pressure test on the cylinders and found that No4 was well down. We were thinking of doing the engine next year but as you know we do a lot of miles and decided to bring it forward. The crankshaft may of found another problem that I have being trying to rectify for a while, the car shakes at 57 / 62mph hopefully we can now get that sorted. Mike and Carole. Redrose group
  6. 2 points
    Hi Waldi, thank you for that, description sounds lovely, product offered via eBay. Too late for the christmas tree... :-) Merry Christmas But we are off the post and should finish this here... Marco
  7. 1 point
    Before taking 883GOH rallying, Len gave the TR a bit of a shakedown at the Portreath Drag Meeting in June 2000. Here we see Len and Rodders going head to head in blinding sunlight. Julian
  8. 1 point
    Haha! There may or not be secretly texting with Richard, but CBJ always performs perfectly for me. Nigel
  9. 1 point
    One poke with a sharp stick is enough Iain.............it's quite nice here in the naughty corner and always happy in your company
  10. 1 point
    Will try that too Pete, Thankyou.
  11. 1 point
    Evans is not Red. It’s Green. Red sounds like a Oat antifreeze. What have you started Ben? We users should just ignore the doubting Thomas’s :-) I’ll get my coat now as well. Iain
  12. 1 point
    Ben go stand in the corner
  13. 1 point
    With regard to the flywheel, I have a post 20k TR3a and the ring gear for that stayed on the same side when I fitted a hi-torque starter. Rgds Ian
  14. 1 point
    Brave man Ben! ( to mention the unmentionable....to some)
  15. 1 point
    Are you checking the crankshaft nose, to ensure the oil seal......does it’s job.....can be fixed with a speedo sleeve if needed.
  16. 1 point
    Stuart that is truly tragic. Looks a lovely car and it will sell well. Just such a shame. Iain
  17. 1 point
    Poor thing. She won't much care for that.
  18. 1 point
    I'm more curious about the non-painted, anodized areas. To duplicated the original this would have to be sanded, re-sanded finer, re-sanded finer yet, polished to a mirror finish then sent out for bright-dip anodizing. Should entail about the cost of buying a top notch reproduction if time is valued at nothing. A reasonable facsimile would be to sand and polish per above, and then clear-coat with a reputable brand like Eastwood Diamond Clear Gloss. Tom
  19. 1 point
    Going to be welcoming home Yellow Peril on Saturday after a month long stay at my mates body shop, I was never happy with the bonnet and few other areas which after looking at the car on Tuesday is not far off concourse, plus the garage floor is complete in Mimosa Yellow. Pics when it happens
  20. 1 point
    Hi Raymond, in the earlier post there’s a link to this thread. It’s a few years old but I think the part no’s are still relevant.
  21. 1 point
    Agreed with Harry about your Steering Wheel..... Cheers Conrad.
  22. 1 point
    Roger _ why didn't I think of that! An even cheaper option so long as you remember to keep an appropriate sized socket in the car! Thinking about it ( not my forte!!), if you weld an old wheel nut on it, you will always have a handy socket ( unless you have wire wheels ) cheers Rich
  23. 1 point
    Thanks, Waldi/Mike... I sprayed plus-gas on it this morning. Cheers Paul.
  24. 1 point
    Pete, I think you will find that this fan has an offset hub and thus places the blades closer to the radiator. The Spitfire fan is the reverse of this and moves the blades away from the radiator. The Spitfire fan has an overall diameter of 12.1/2", it will be interesting to learn the diameter of the fan that you have acquired. Regards, Richard
  25. 1 point
    You really need all the butterflies completely closed at idle and let the idle air screw do the idle speed adjustment. If you have cleaned out the throttle bodies you will get an idle speed of over 2000 rpm, I made that mistake when I fitted PI to my USA spec TR6 about 30 years ago. There is generally enough wear in the bodies to allow sufficient air to pass down the side of the butterflies even if the edges are closed against the body. I would suggest smearing some very thick grease around the butterfly seating area and give each set a good rattling open and closed to make sure they are properly shut before you synchronise the linkages. When you have accumulated some mileage the gunk that come from the engine breather will gum up the gaps around the butterflies, but the grease will help until then Neil
  26. 1 point
    I use screwfix nonsense heavy duty degreaser in my parts cleaner it's about £9 for 5 litre and works fine George
  27. 1 point
    I have been using this stuff in my parts cleaner fro years without problems. The pump in mine is a simple centrifugal one (I suspect the same as is used in small ponds or large aquariums) no diaphram. Bob.
  28. 1 point
    I have yet to see a powder coat that matches (or comes close) to the warm silver metallic paint of the orignals. For a solid color there are probably decent options. Paint for me, not powder coat, for all the reasons noted earlier in the thread, plus the appropriate color match to original. Here's my spare wheel, a 48-spoke 4-inch wire to fit better in the wheel well on my TR3B, rattle-can sprayed and clear coated. Shown next to the reproduction MWS wheels on the car. I don't have any images of the wheel prior to sandblasting, but the finish was rusted pretty good. It looks near new now with paint + clearcoat. The paint I used, Eastwood Detail Sliver, is a great match for the original wheel silver and sadly seems to be discontinued as a product.
  29. 1 point
    If alignment is the ultimate goal & the water pump pulley needs bringing forward by such a small amount how about making a thicker gasket for behing the waterpump housing
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    The ANG version is a rip off of Christians one, I would stay with the Christian Marx one which is backed by race proving. Stuart.
  32. 1 point
    ....Tom , Mr Wilson did wonders for the sales of "flasher macs" !!!
  33. 1 point
    Thanks Mark, John, CK and Harald perfect info as ever! Bolts ordered. Don't you just love this forum. Thanks again Andy
  34. 1 point
    Its up to you but we fit the Christian Marx seals to every engine including my 4a and they dont leak period, I also have the centring tool that I could lend you (FWIW I also have an original factory centring tool as well) I wouldnt go the machining off route at all as Ive had them leak despite very accurate machining and assembly. The original grey Fergy crank didnt have a scroll it had a lip seal from new and they leaked too. Stuart.
  35. 1 point
    In my experience, if you hit a bump in the road with any significant load on that type of rack it will shatter your (mazak) boot hinges. It's a nice idea but the boot hinges were never designed for this load.
  36. 1 point
    You can put the weights on the inside if there is room Roger
  37. 1 point
    Hi Jo, I have a pretty early 1961 TR4 ( 286th built ) it has the long gauges and they are illuminated via the top two pods.
  38. 1 point
    Hi Erik, I have sent my MC and SC (and the master brake cylinder) to Past Parts, they have installed a thin SS liner in each of them too, so less sensitive to corrosion, which is a common reason for failure. I asked to electro plate the bodies too, they came back as new (or better). I used SBF for both systems, but if you have conventional hydraulic brake fluid (dot 3 or 4) in your brake system, I would stick with that for the clutch system too, to avoid mixing them, which will give problems. Certainly not what you want on your brake system! Maybe you can ask the previous owner (PO) what he used? Regards, Waldi And fully agree with Keith above, who just replied a moment before I did
  39. 1 point
    The clutch cover has strong springs inside it Erik, which push the driven plate onto the flywheel. It's those springs that have to be overcome by pushing on the clutch pedal and they push back again as the clutch is released. The operating rod is adjusted so that with the slave cylinder piston fully retracted, there is just a little play to ensure the release bearing isn't pushing on the clutch cover all the time. The extra spring that Keith mentions pulls back on the operating lever to take up that small clearance. What is puzzling me is that even with a loss of fluid and no spring 136, there shouldn't be much free movement of the operating rod. There should only be a couple of mm of play. If that is what you have then ignore all my talk of linkage problems.
  40. 1 point
    No Eric -the spring item 15 just stops rattles. The spring I am talking about is the clutch cover spring (item 1) which is very strong indeed.
  41. 1 point
    Hi Pete, when my tensior was broken I checked the new one after 2 years, fortunately it was still in good condition - in your case I would use the old one. My chain is as Johns an "Iris", little ore expensive but still little money. I used the old original sprockets, in my opinion in oil bath they are good for 2-3 chains. I did nothing with the valve seats, maybe I'm careless - but it works without problems. All the best for 2020 Marco
  42. 1 point
    Nicely done. If that timing chain tensioner is in reasonable to good condition, it’s worth considering re-using......the repros have been very poor. Also when you reassemble don’t forget to use the short screw for the sump into the Ali block above the main bearing carrier.....it’s not currently damaged by wrongly using a long screw. Iain
  43. 1 point
    David - if you fancy having the same for yourself, I have both these items available for sale - the SU carbs are in Classifieds and the exhaust manifold in the Forum for sale section. PM me if in interested Cheers Rich
  44. 1 point
    Hi Guy's I’d assumed as much but wanted to check. Thoughts are to try to update the Radio with modern USB and Bluetooth capability with the original look and maybe keeping this period speaker. I’ll see how it sounds. Great to have the original installation instruction for interest, so thanks Derek. Cheers Keith
  45. 1 point
    Welcome to the register and forum. It looks AND sounds amazing, should give you a lot of fun! Gareth
  46. 1 point
    That was Bert h in the dash trim shop. Apparently he fitted the brackets to the very early cars that had a separate screw in lid bracket. 2 different companies made the glove box rod to the lid bracket . they ran out of the lid brackets and Bert, rather than stop the line just snipped and bent the door plate. when the bosses saw it rather than go mad saw a saving and I understand promoted Bert to supervisor and carried on with his idea.
  47. 1 point
    In the Brenner Pass on the way home after nearly 3000 miles touring in Italy.
  48. 1 point
    So, you have an engine? What do you think is wrong with it? Surely it would be better to fix the engine you have. Rimmer Bros have several model complete engine rebuild kits for £650 + VAT, You might require the assistance of a specialist engineering firm for valve seat, valve guide fitting, and crankshaft regrind, if needed. 125 psi is a bit low - especially for a race prepared engine ..... I'm getting 150 psi on a 'dubious history' standard 4A lump. Water in the oil would certainly point at a head gasket problem at the very least, and might be contributing to the low compression readings you are getting. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-RF4006R2BK
  49. 1 point
    Neil Revington re-built my car (4VC) in the early 1990s and re-fitted the heat shield which the Comps Dept had installed in 1962 between the original dynamo and the SAH exhaust manifold, but then, because I wanted to change to alternator, was between alternator and manifold. When Neil brought 6VC back from the USA, he installed an alternator, but either didn’t have, or neglected to fit, a heat shield. It wasn’t long before he cooked his brand new alternator! FWIW, my original heat shield is a thin sheet of steel, to which I attached a small piece of a solder mat of the type which one uses when making plumbing joints. Installing the shield is a bit of a fiddle, but well worth it. Ian Cornish
  50. 1 point
    If you leave your rad and bonnet on, tape some thick cardboard across the rear face of the rad to prevent the aforesaid risk of damage when messing with the front of the engine...Oh and you'll likely find the "dog bolt" that holds the pulley extension onto the crankshaft is tightened to about 120lb ft torque (mine is) which may need an impact gun applied to remove it. If no gun available put the car in gear and get the missus and/ or friend to stand on the brakes whist you apply lots of force through breaker bar onto the dog bolt, and remember it needs 120lb ft going onto it when being retightened. Mick Richards
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