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  2. It’s safe enough if done with care. Needs a spark or a flame to ignite the petrol so carefully removing it and pointing at a jam jar, or simply aiming it at the injector port so any fuel sprayed goes where it would have gone anyway will have negligible risks attached.
  3. Hi All. Is there any way to rescue this, or should I buy new? Are the new ones ok? Mine as it is will let my build down and spoil the car.
  4. Today
  5. I've never understood why the TR250/5 never had a proper rad cowl like the cars before it and after it. It doesn't look finished to me and all the mounting holes are already in place. If you want to make it look "finished", these cowls are really well made and finish the engine bay off, although admittedly not for the purists. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256445899062?itmmeta=01HT26A12GN5X0M2GEJRZ5NV0P&hash=item3bb55de136:g:AawAAOSw8kll8zVh&itmprp=enc No connection other than I made the original prototype for Tony using a local members car as a template - if you want to c
  6. I believe that later 4's had longer springs, & no aluminium spacer, therefore only needing 4 rubber washers Bob
  7. Thanks Harry, Jasmine is the perfect Spring/Summer colour!
  8. Hi Roy, those red brake drums definitively have to go!
  9. I love these with the bonnet stripes and yours would be silver, but does not detract for being a very nice car. The colour I am somewhat biased as my (TR5) is in Jasmine. Enjoy! Regards Harry
  10. It's there First job , buy some silver or black paint for the brake drums. Roy
  11. Thanks Pete for the tip on fuel pipe I placed a thin metal sheet in front of the fuel pipe and sure enough it ended up bent with a dent in it. With out that I think it could have been hanging of the petrol pipe Phil.
  12. thats ok Rich today I am going to try and make a wooden buck that the diff can sit in when I lift it back into the car hopefully make it more stable can also use it for transporting it down to Peter Cox sports cars next week. Phil
  13. Have checked all the papers. Found nothing, Just the BMI-heritage-trust certificate.
  14. I played around with my MU a fair bit when I ran PI. I did the work with an air fuel ratio meter connected recording data while driving a standard circuit with different driving conditions. My advice is definitely get rhe MU baselines by someone like Neil first. This gets you 90% of the way, in some cases, depending on the state of the engine, all the way there. Then depending on your skill and whether you have and Afr you can do the last 10% yourself. I got kine to a state where bogging was non-existent but I was also not running as rich as the standard setup making it less smelly and more f
  15. I use Retro Classic 001 tyres in 165/ 80 15, they are the same tread as the XAS' successor. Transformed the ride and steering and just look right too. You won't regret going to the correct size. Gareth
  16. There are a few on the market. Which one is the best value for money?
  17. Yesterday
  18. Agreed for TR2-3-4 with the spacer fitted.
  19. Thanks to all who responded to my question. All replies are appreciated, I value your experience and will probably dig deep and go for the 165/80-15XASs.
  20. Thanks for the prompt reply. But my (very old) Moss Catalogue gives rubber washer (part 80) as 4 in total? Adrian
  21. The Moss catalogue shows collars above and below the spacer
  22. In rebuilding the front suspension on my '4, I have found that I have, from the top: Rubber washer Aluminium packing piece Rubber washer Coil spring Rubber washer Which initially strikes me as correct, and the Parts Catalogue seems to support this. But a very experienced TR friend is adamant that the coil fits directly into the packing piece. (Maybe to prevent spring & packing piece wobble?) What is correct/best practice? Thanks, Adrian
  23. Richard, Fingers crossed you get it sorted, but just incase, I happened to spot the following on Martin Lewis’s website earlier today: “Kärcher's doing a 20% off sale this week, starting at 12.01am on Friday 29 March... but we've Blagged an early access code so you can get the deal NOW – just in case sale stock runs out. The code – YWMSE20 – is valid on all items, including those already reduced. Just enter it at the checkout by 11.59pm on Thursday 28 March (after that the discount will be available to all, so you won't need it).” Cheers, ben.
  24. The frame to body seal has been in for a month so should be ready to trim?
  25. Hard to justify for me and for me good for brown daisy production. They may handle but, for me, in the wet somewhat scary.
  26. If the steering has only got heavier since fitting the new box, then the rest of the steering system is probably ok, to check if the box is too tight jack the front of the car up, so the wheels are of the ground, then try the steering, if it is still heavy then check if it is only heavy in the straight ahaed position, or if fully left, or full right etc. there should not be any "tight spots". if there are then small adjustments to the rocker height setting screw may be needed. Are you sure it is heavier than before, with no other changes (tyres etc) are the tyre pressures ok. Bob
  27. Yes, some time ago, after using araldite to mend a leak I blocked the tube!
  28. Whatever your decision, you may want to consider that most TR tyres these days age expire long before they're worn out.
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