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The other half would like it Bob, mine does.
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Thanks Ian. If the driveway goes dry overnight I will try your plan tomorrow. It does sound hopeful Richard & B
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I had this problem and despite having it calibrated etc.. after a rebuild it still flickered. I changed the speedo drive and cable but still the same. Spoke to overdrive services and they suggested it could be the drive worm gear for the speedo angle drive. There is a bolt just up from the angle drive which locates the worm drive. I changed it for a new one and bingo it worked in my case so now a happy bunny. Not saying it could be the same as yours but something to look out for. Good luck. P.S. I cleaned the inner cable and coated it with graphite lock powder.
- Today
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I was seriously tempted by this given that it is pretty complete and has been untouched for almost 40 yrs. However on conversation with Enginuity I'm rather less keen, it needs new sills, both B posts, rear inner wings just for starters and the front outer wings are from a 4a and fibreglass. If I had more space and a higher level of welding skill I probably would have gone for it. Great to see it has re-emerged from the darkness though David
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Racetorations have a nice one for sale £37.5k
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Are you absolutely sure that the column has been refitted without any deflection? That is often caused by the bracket under the dash putting left or right tension on the column and or the lower bolts being tightened when the column at the wheel end is too high or too low. I had a similar issue and slackened everything off including the lower box mountings to let the column run straight then very carefully adjusted the dash bracket to suit, retightened everything ……..stiffness solved. Iain
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Nice and easy then. Roger
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(I think I know the answer, but want to check before the engine comes out in a couple weeks to replace clutch + gubbins) Above 60Mph-ish the speedo needle which has sat solid on a speed starts wobbling/flickering not staying on the speed. Around 70Mph it flickers a lot. Am i thinking correctly as this is what I used to have in my Caterham which had a similar system and would need to replace. I think it's either the speedo cable or pin that connects the angle drive. TIA
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I thought you might say that ! If I did get it it could be coming your way . No, 1 TR is enough. If I didn't have my '3 I would definately go for it. I probably shouldn't say where it is at present as other people are looking at it possibly from on here. I believe the person with 1st refusal lives down your way, so you may see it anyway Bob P.S. I've got too many hobbies !
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The gap referred to at the front is only for Surrey equipped cars, I think the OP is referring to a convertible capping. Stuart.
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RogerH started following Windscreen capping. What to do?
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Hi Steve, the new cappings look very good. That was the good news. The bad news - they take a fair bit of effort to fit properly. They sit too low, so you need to put pads under it to give a reasonable gap. This may not be straight forward. The front edge needs to be raised slightly and the back needs to sit on the rear edge of the screen frame. The outer ends just about work but as Stuart mentions they are a little on the short side This would be an ideal part to have made from Stainless steel. Roger.
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What vehicle is it on as if its TR4 on is the column clamp inside the engine bay loose or missing? Items 58/59/60 here https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/steering-suspension/steering/steering-tr4-4a-1961-67.html Stuart.
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Doesnt look too bad, a least its complete, go for it Bob, mans got to have a hobby where is it for sale? Stuart.
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Click on to enlarge & is currently for sale. I thought it was dead & buried decades ago as there was no trace of reg No. or Commission No. Tempting though it is, I don't think I have the energy anymore. It seems it will need a complete re-build despite not looking too bad from a distance Bob
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Something must be slipping, the hub of the wheel should be located on splines, which stop any rotation. I would check that the splines on your new hub (if it has any) are a good fit on the steering column. Bob
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Michael Mastromonaco joined the community
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Note that there are two different cappings. The narrower one is for the drop head top only. For the Surrey and hard top the capping is wider so that the front of the Surrey can tuck underneath. You may well have to ease up the front lip of a new capping so that the front of the Surrey soft top can tuck underneath fully. The wider capping can also be used for the drop head top. They do get marked and scratched over time but yours does look a bit 'tired' at the ends. Keith
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If the story about it going out with a serviceman is right then I suspect it was never officially exported as he would have been posted and took it with him. I wonder if Saffron TR (Derek) would have any record of it by chassis number to find an original reg number? Stuart.
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Do be aware that the new ones arent always a particularly good fit when it comes to the rivet holes lining up, the new Surrey ones also are somewhat lacking on the ends where the stud goes too. Also like John says they do all end up like that eventually as its in the nature of the beast. Stuart.
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Surprisingly Ive seen 4a with the distance piece too so it depends on what spring length is fitted. Either way there should be no metal to metal contact so insulators all round. Stuart.
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First race of the season = Donington, 23rd March
roy53 replied to john.r.davies's topic in TR Motorsport
That's a strange one John. I had one brake at the test day [rocker] . Do you think that the 2 are related ? Although next to each other i cannot see how they would contact. Roy -
Ultrasonic bath is the best for cleaning that sort of thing. Stuart.
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John I agree with Nigel - cellulose thinners will shift all the brown staining etc - then if you want a really good finish, have the parts vapour blasted cheers Rich