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Hi All After great success converting my 6 to EFI I’m starting to look at doing my newly purchased 4a, previously I used Emerald and there K6 ecu. Has anyone had any success in convthere 4a ? Cheers Mark

Hi Steve, the wheel arch liners are worth their weight in gold. Revington not cheap but easier to fit, Honeybourne cheaper but not so good. They stop all the road muck getting up into the far corners of the wheel arch area. Rust TRap. Roger

Rod, If you want it to cut everything off then fit it in the earth lead from the battery. One of the big connectors goes to the battery, the other to the car body (Where the other end of the earth lead had been.) Does that lever come off? (Some do). If so I'd glue it on permanently or pin it. The last thing you want before the apocalypse is to find your knob has dropped off. I'd just ignore the two smaller connectors. Charlie

Please could someone advise me on how to fit this kill switch? It has two connectors for large cables and on the base two connections marked '1' and another two marked '2'. I want to fit it in my 1958 TR3A, now negative earth with an alternator and dummy regulator box. I will be putting it in the cockpit within easy reach in case of an emergency (there's nothing like the smell of burning plastic in the morning . . . ) I'd like it to completely shut down all the electrics. Many Thanks Rod

It may be worth speaking to Peter cox gearboxes I found him and his son Tom very helpful

Thanks.

Thanks Roger. I’ve. It decided on the liners. Are they worthwhile?

Steve when I did it I used masking tape along the panels ,marked where I wanted the holes new drill bit all good, hopefully Stuart will answer as he does this often Nick

Hi Steve, before painting is the safest way. However Put masking tape where you are going to drill in case you slip. 1/8" drill. Make sure they are all in line - you do not want to have too many failed holes. You shouldn't need sealant around the rear lights. Are you fitting wheel arch liners? Roger

I have seen other aftermarket synchros built poorly, out of round, too narrow etc but that usually results in inadequate braking of the gear cone and crunching changes but getting stuck on the cone is a new one one me..

Hi All. I must be bad at searching as I cannot ever find what I’m looking for on here! I need to fit my new side mouldings so need to drill the holes in newly painted bodywork. Should have done it before paint… Does anyone have any tips? Not a job I’m looking forward to! What sealant do I use around the rear lights too pse? Please wait while image is uploading...

Free if collected Or postage cost added Otter Switch Push in for TR7/8, Lotus, Jaguar. 2 genuine Otter Brand, one replacement item. Both Otter items were new from Triumph. Rating 91 87. All unused They are the push in type of thermostatic switch for TR7/8 with a/c Radiator cooling fan switch for MGB pt no URP1126 or BHM7285 Radiator cooling fan on Lotus Elite and Eclat. Radiator/air con fans Jag XJ12 and probably E Type. My brother ran one for years in his TR2. Drilled a hole on the header tank and inserted, to control his electric cooling fan.

What does your existing relay look like Richard. With Lucar or screwed eyelet terminations? These are views of spare new relays that are in my drawer.

Belated Happy Birthday Bob! Iain

Sorry about this John but Stuart’s response gave me a good chuckle - glad you got sorted

Happy belated birthday Bob. All the best, Waldi

Thank you all! first, apologies for the late response, I was in Germany for work so was kept on my toes. I invited my colleagues for dinner the night before so we had a nice evening. Then my colleagues surprised me with a Schwarzwalderkirsch torte and a home-made sauer dough bread on my birthday! Then on birthday-evening Andreas (“TriumpV8”) and Harald, who both live near where I worked and post on here occasionally joined me for dinner, Andreas was the generous “sponsor” that night (thank you again Andreas). Interesting detail: This Dutch guy and the two fellow German TR-ers

I doubt there is anything much between the two Richard. Both Durite and Ripca/Ripault are reputable.

Chassis mostly. Stuart.

I am very impressed by these two answers. I have spent a long time explaining to suppliers what an Overdrive is and that a relay is required. Then I checked out the Forum and had a direct link. Is it better to buy a Durite or just the other one here on the forum ? Durite may be better quality. The forum is the best place for advice. I have help from a friend tomorrow and will make sure that it is the relay which has given up. Thanks to Rob and Ralph

Thanks Richard however the car I was interested in was at auction and I didn't bid enough to win it. The search continues

Are the shims necessary to account for discrepancies in the chassis or the trailing arms........or both? Richard.

There may be unseen structural damage to the chassis or bodyshell. Once you have that then it's probably terminal.

Image I posted before of cracks in the ferrous rocker shaft pedestals of a TR2. Later cars used cast aluminium pedestals. The cracks are visible inside and on the end faces. Such cracking is unlikely to have caused your push rod failure though. Worth inspecting if it is all in bits.

This is a bit of a 'can-of-worms'. The coil has one end of the primary winding connected to the HT winding and is meant to operate with that connection point going to the distributor. That increases the output voltage by a few hundred volts because when the points open, the windings are in series so back-emf in the primary adds to that of the secondary. By swapping the connections of the coil over, you lose that small boost because the connection point is held at 12v above earth. What this means is that in correcting things to get the right spark polarity , you alter the operation o