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  2. Thanks Pete for the tip on fuel pipe I placed a thin metal sheet in front of the fuel pipe and sure enough it ended up bent with a dent in it. With out that I think it could have been hanging of the petrol pipe Phil.
  3. thats ok Rich today I am going to try and make a wooden buck that the diff can sit in when I lift it back into the car hopefully make it more stable can also use it for transporting it down to Peter Cox sports cars next week. Phil
  4. Have checked all the papers. Found nothing, Just the BMI-heritage-trust certificate.
  5. Today
  6. I played around with my MU a fair bit when I ran PI. I did the work with an air fuel ratio meter connected recording data while driving a standard circuit with different driving conditions. My advice is definitely get rhe MU baselines by someone like Neil first. This gets you 90% of the way, in some cases, depending on the state of the engine, all the way there. Then depending on your skill and whether you have and Afr you can do the last 10% yourself. I got kine to a state where bogging was non-existent but I was also not running as rich as the standard setup making it less smelly and more f
  7. I use Retro Classic 001 tyres in 165/ 80 15, they are the same tread as the XAS' successor. Transformed the ride and steering and just look right too. You won't regret going to the correct size. Gareth
  8. There are a few on the market. Which one is the best value for money?
  9. Yesterday
  10. Agreed for TR2-3-4 with the spacer fitted.
  11. Thanks to all who responded to my question. All replies are appreciated, I value your experience and will probably dig deep and go for the 165/80-15XASs.
  12. Thanks for the prompt reply. But my (very old) Moss Catalogue gives rubber washer (part 80) as 4 in total? Adrian
  13. The Moss catalogue shows collars above and below the spacer
  14. In rebuilding the front suspension on my '4, I have found that I have, from the top: Rubber washer Aluminium packing piece Rubber washer Coil spring Rubber washer Which initially strikes me as correct, and the Parts Catalogue seems to support this. But a very experienced TR friend is adamant that the coil fits directly into the packing piece. (Maybe to prevent spring & packing piece wobble?) What is correct/best practice? Thanks, Adrian
  15. Richard, Fingers crossed you get it sorted, but just incase, I happened to spot the following on Martin Lewis’s website earlier today: “Kärcher's doing a 20% off sale this week, starting at 12.01am on Friday 29 March... but we've Blagged an early access code so you can get the deal NOW – just in case sale stock runs out. The code – YWMSE20 – is valid on all items, including those already reduced. Just enter it at the checkout by 11.59pm on Thursday 28 March (after that the discount will be available to all, so you won't need it).” Cheers, ben.
  16. The frame to body seal has been in for a month so should be ready to trim?
  17. Hard to justify for me and for me good for brown daisy production. They may handle but, for me, in the wet somewhat scary.
  18. If the steering has only got heavier since fitting the new box, then the rest of the steering system is probably ok, to check if the box is too tight jack the front of the car up, so the wheels are of the ground, then try the steering, if it is still heavy then check if it is only heavy in the straight ahaed position, or if fully left, or full right etc. there should not be any "tight spots". if there are then small adjustments to the rocker height setting screw may be needed. Are you sure it is heavier than before, with no other changes (tyres etc) are the tyre pressures ok. Bob
  19. Yes, some time ago, after using araldite to mend a leak I blocked the tube!
  20. Whatever your decision, you may want to consider that most TR tyres these days age expire long before they're worn out.
  21. Hi John - good idea, and yes I do have one of those guns. Have you done this yourself?
  22. Hi Richard, you still use the TR3 steering box and not the later rack? Ciao, Marco
  23. Over 44 years of driving TR6's the Michelin XAS's are the right tyre for this car, they really are blinking good for a narrow tyre like a 165. I changed my XAS's fairly recently as they were 9 years old. I drive my TR6 the way its meant to be driven so considered the XAS's again but oh the price had me reeling a bit. I plumped for 165 CN36's which were cheaper but only slightly. Both are a very good bet for a TR6 just be prepared to pay. They will last you a long time though and you can drive with confidence. Good luck Alan G
  24. Like the windscreen glass seal, go and do something else for 4 or 5 days in case the seal creeps back towards the centre, less likely because of the positive fittings but that's what I did. Mick Richards
  25. Thats a real good question. Now they are the only thing that keeps a car on the road but when we shop for tyres for our modern daily drivers how many of us specify say Michelin Pilot Sport 4's? For my daily car the Michelins are £160, my Toyo Proxes are about £95 ish but you can get Nankangs for £50 odd (all same size) Personally i never buy cheapo tyres (hence the Toyo's) but i am on a budget and CN36's at over £1100 for a set is a little steep for me, esp when they will prob not wear out but will need replacing after they crack with age. So i went for Vredstein T-Tracs. Again
  26. I need to trim this seal back, but how far back pse anyone? I asked before but forgot the answer!
  27. Richard, Does the motor run? I have had two different models of Karcher washers where the capacitor on the motor has died. It is a simple task to replace. I have also had the on/off switch fail again a very simple repair once you have the case off but that switch went intermittent before it's final demise. All the Karchers I have worked on just need the obvious screws removing and the case pulls apart to give full access. Alan
  28. Have you an infrared 'gun'? Not pricey. Scan that across the warmed up radiator ans look for blocked tubes that will be cooler. John
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