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  2. What vehicle is it on as if its TR4 on is the column clamp inside the engine bay loose or missing? Items 58/59/60 here https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/steering-suspension/steering/steering-tr4-4a-1961-67.html Stuart.
  3. Doesnt look too bad, a least its complete, go for it Bob, mans got to have a hobby where is it for sale? Stuart.
  4. Click on to enlarge & is currently for sale. I thought it was dead & buried decades ago as there was no trace of reg No. or Commission No. Tempting though it is, I don't think I have the energy anymore. It seems it will need a complete re-build despite not looking too bad from a distance Bob
  5. Something must be slipping, the hub of the wheel should be located on splines, which stop any rotation. I would check that the splines on your new hub (if it has any) are a good fit on the steering column. Bob
  6. Note that there are two different cappings. The narrower one is for the drop head top only. For the Surrey and hard top the capping is wider so that the front of the Surrey can tuck underneath. You may well have to ease up the front lip of a new capping so that the front of the Surrey soft top can tuck underneath fully. The wider capping can also be used for the drop head top. They do get marked and scratched over time but yours does look a bit 'tired' at the ends. Keith
  7. If the story about it going out with a serviceman is right then I suspect it was never officially exported as he would have been posted and took it with him. I wonder if Saffron TR (Derek) would have any record of it by chassis number to find an original reg number? Stuart.
  8. Do be aware that the new ones arent always a particularly good fit when it comes to the rivet holes lining up, the new Surrey ones also are somewhat lacking on the ends where the stud goes too. Also like John says they do all end up like that eventually as its in the nature of the beast. Stuart.
  9. Surprisingly Ive seen 4a with the distance piece too so it depends on what spring length is fitted. Either way there should be no metal to metal contact so insulators all round. Stuart.
  10. Have a look at the relationship between the top of the "A" post and the bottom of the frame and trim to the one thats the furthest backwards. You might need a little bit of DumDum or similar to just fill any void at the joint. Stuart.
  11. That's a strange one John. I had one brake at the test day [rocker] . Do you think that the 2 are related ? Although next to each other i cannot see how they would contact. Roy
  12. Ultrasonic bath is the best for cleaning that sort of thing. Stuart.
  13. Today
  14. John I agree with Nigel - cellulose thinners will shift all the brown staining etc - then if you want a really good finish, have the parts vapour blasted cheers Rich
  15. Hi. I fitted a smaller 13inch wooden wheel and secured the main nut, put put everything back together and the steering turns the wheels... However, the steering wheel straightness is off as if it mo es during use. I wiggle it and seems tight. Any ideas??
  16. Andrew Turner (the SU and Stromberg man) cleans carbs after stripping by first soaking in a bucket of cellulose thinners for a few hours. This is followed by a deep clean in an ultrasonic bath, using a suitable detergent solution. It brought up my old SUs like new. Nigel
  17. Hi Rich, hope you’re well. I’ve sent you an email. Best Neil
  18. Hi all, what’s the latest thinking on best stuff to clean Ally carb bits, perhaps submersed in a solution for a while? John
  19. Neil is indeed the Pi man and i'm lucky being about half hour away As said he worked as a Lucas engineer for 20 years or so before it all went under and purchased lots of the test equpment they used. He refurbs all of the Pi gear and supplies many of the parts suppliers and as others have said is very helpful, though he can occasionaly be hard to get hold of, so patience. No connection other than he refurbed all my Pi gear to a great standard and it was running well until my fuel tank rust issue blocked the filter and caused havock. Cheers Keith
  20. You mean a 6-3-1 manifold? The criterion is the length of the primaries, which governs the rev range in which they resonate and act as extractors. Like organ pipes, the shorter the higher. Gareth Thomas, a strange man and an excellent engineer, recommends that they should be 0.43m long and exactly equal to work around top revs: They need to be longer to work at mid range, but those would need to be bespoke and will take up a lot of space or have ground clearance problems. John
  21. Hi Steven, the end is a bit tired, though it won't take long for anew one to look like yours does around the location holes. If I were you I'd buy a new one, my experience is that good used are all somewhat marked. John
  22. It’s safe enough if done with care. Needs a spark or a flame to ignite the petrol so carefully removing it and pointing at a jam jar, or simply aiming it at the injector port so any fuel sprayed goes where it would have gone anyway will have negligible risks attached.
  23. Hi All. Is there any way to rescue this, or should I buy new? Are the new ones ok? Mine as it is will let my build down and spoil the car.
  24. I've never understood why the TR250/5 never had a proper rad cowl like the cars before it and after it. It doesn't look finished to me and all the mounting holes are already in place. If you want to make it look "finished", these cowls are really well made and finish the engine bay off, although admittedly not for the purists. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256445899062?itmmeta=01HT26A12GN5X0M2GEJRZ5NV0P&hash=item3bb55de136:g:AawAAOSw8kll8zVh&itmprp=enc No connection other than I made the original prototype for Tony using a local members car as a template - if you want to c
  25. I believe that later 4's had longer springs, & no aluminium spacer, therefore only needing 4 rubber washers Bob
  26. Thanks Harry, Jasmine is the perfect Spring/Summer colour!
  27. Hi Roy, those red brake drums definitively have to go!
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