Hi all,
What is the best way to refit the rearaxle to my bare tr4 chassis?
I have problems to lift the 2 springs high enough to get the 4 u bolts in place!
Any advice appreciated.
Tx, john.
Full Version: rear axle
Maybe there are no secrets to it????????
just brute force?
just brute force?
Jacks....
When the springs are fitted to the chassis, the axle can be hung in the springs, but only when the brake drums and back place are not fitted to the axle.
Hi John- I put my axle on yesterday, so it is fresh in my mind, I had the front wheels on the chassis.
1. Assemble the leaf springs onto the chassis.
2. With the wheels fitted, roll the axle into rough position from behind.
3. Jack up the rear of the chassis on the rear tube until it is against the underneath of the axle.
4. Place another jack under one of the springs, rear of centre so that you can get to the nuts on the U bolts, jack up until it starts to lift the axle and chassis, then stop.
5. I had already bolted in the dampers and needed to put the damper link onto the plate that goes under the spring, as it wouldn't fit afterwards without removing the dampers again.
6. You should now find that the U bolts will fit and there should be enough thread showing to put the nuts on and tighten each one bit by bit. If not use a large G clamp, possibly. Mine were OK.
7. The U bolts should run at right angles, down the side of the springs, if not the axle is not positioned right and the stud and hole will not line up.
8. I used my old U bolts and they needed squeezing together a bit to fit the underspring plate.
9. Repeat for the other side- job done !
I recall that your TR4, like mine is an early ex USA one. Mine had extra packing on the passenger spring to lower that side slightly to match the weight of the driver. I swopped the springs side to side, to suit RHD, but that is my preference as the RHD ones don't have packing pieces as far as I know. I had a mate jump on the back of the chassis to allow me to slide in the rebound rubbers around the axle tubes.
Hope this helps,
Rod
1. Assemble the leaf springs onto the chassis.
2. With the wheels fitted, roll the axle into rough position from behind.
3. Jack up the rear of the chassis on the rear tube until it is against the underneath of the axle.
4. Place another jack under one of the springs, rear of centre so that you can get to the nuts on the U bolts, jack up until it starts to lift the axle and chassis, then stop.
5. I had already bolted in the dampers and needed to put the damper link onto the plate that goes under the spring, as it wouldn't fit afterwards without removing the dampers again.
6. You should now find that the U bolts will fit and there should be enough thread showing to put the nuts on and tighten each one bit by bit. If not use a large G clamp, possibly. Mine were OK.
7. The U bolts should run at right angles, down the side of the springs, if not the axle is not positioned right and the stud and hole will not line up.
8. I used my old U bolts and they needed squeezing together a bit to fit the underspring plate.
9. Repeat for the other side- job done !
I recall that your TR4, like mine is an early ex USA one. Mine had extra packing on the passenger spring to lower that side slightly to match the weight of the driver. I swopped the springs side to side, to suit RHD, but that is my preference as the RHD ones don't have packing pieces as far as I know. I had a mate jump on the back of the chassis to allow me to slide in the rebound rubbers around the axle tubes.
Hope this helps,
Rod
QUOTE (Rhodri @ Jul 6 2008, 10:30 PM) 
Hi John- I put my axle on yesterday, so it is fresh in my mind, I had the front wheels on the chassis.
1. Assemble the leaf springs onto the chassis.
2. With the wheels fitted, roll the axle into rough position from behind.
3. Jack up the rear of the chassis on the rear tube until it is against the underneath of the axle.
4. Place another jack under one of the springs, rear of centre so that you can get to the nuts on the U bolts, jack up until it starts to lift the axle and chassis, then stop.
5. I had already bolted in the dampers and needed to put the damper link onto the plate that goes under the spring, as it wouldn't fit afterwards without removing the dampers again.
6. You should now find that the U bolts will fit and there should be enough thread showing to put the nuts on and tighten each one bit by bit. If not use a large G clamp, possibly. Mine were OK.
7. The U bolts should run at right angles, down the side of the springs, if not the axle is not positioned right and the stud and hole will not line up.
8. I used my old U bolts and they needed squeezing together a bit to fit the underspring plate.
9. Repeat for the other side- job done !
I recall that your TR4, like mine is an early ex USA one. Mine had extra packing on the passenger spring to lower that side slightly to match the weight of the driver. I swopped the springs side to side, to suit RHD, but that is my preference as the RHD ones don't have packing pieces as far as I know. I had a mate jump on the back of the chassis to allow me to slide in the rebound rubbers around the axle tubes.
Hope this helps,
Rod
1. Assemble the leaf springs onto the chassis.
2. With the wheels fitted, roll the axle into rough position from behind.
3. Jack up the rear of the chassis on the rear tube until it is against the underneath of the axle.
4. Place another jack under one of the springs, rear of centre so that you can get to the nuts on the U bolts, jack up until it starts to lift the axle and chassis, then stop.
5. I had already bolted in the dampers and needed to put the damper link onto the plate that goes under the spring, as it wouldn't fit afterwards without removing the dampers again.
6. You should now find that the U bolts will fit and there should be enough thread showing to put the nuts on and tighten each one bit by bit. If not use a large G clamp, possibly. Mine were OK.
7. The U bolts should run at right angles, down the side of the springs, if not the axle is not positioned right and the stud and hole will not line up.
8. I used my old U bolts and they needed squeezing together a bit to fit the underspring plate.
9. Repeat for the other side- job done !
I recall that your TR4, like mine is an early ex USA one. Mine had extra packing on the passenger spring to lower that side slightly to match the weight of the driver. I swopped the springs side to side, to suit RHD, but that is my preference as the RHD ones don't have packing pieces as far as I know. I had a mate jump on the back of the chassis to allow me to slide in the rebound rubbers around the axle tubes.
Hope this helps,
Rod
hi Rod
thanks for that.
So I was right in thinking that without the weight of the shell the axle sits very tight against the chassis.
I've got the U-bolts and shocks connected, had to get my son to stand on the chassis!- and have about 1/2 inch between axle and springs, which will go when I tighten the u-bolts.
Jumping on the rear cross member, a gap appears between axle and springs, is that about right?
tx, John.
That's right, the axle is tight against the chassis, with no weight on it, that is why I put the rubbers on afterwards. I took pics as I dismantled it as it all seemed wrong when I put it back on! Another thing I noted is that the diff flange is not central on the axle, it is to one side- measured it all in case I had made a mistake ! The rather poor pic, before I dismantled it shows the spring tight on the chassis.
QUOTE (Rhodri @ Jul 6 2008, 11:26 PM)
That's right, the axle is tight against the chassis, with no weight on it, that is why I put the rubbers on afterwards. I took pics as I dismantled it as it all seemed wrong when I put it back on! Another thing I noted is that the diff flange is not central on the axle, it is to one side- measured it all in case I had made a mistake ! The rather poor pic, before I dismantled it shows the spring tight on the chassis.
Thanks for that, Rod
I'm on the right track!
cheers, John.
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