Potent engine build - Crank, piston, rod choices
#1
Posted 02 February 2012 - 07:01 PM
I have been asked to build a TR4 engine for a customer.
The car will be driven on occasionally on week ends mostly around town in traffic. No motorway use so no long periods spent at high RPM.
Low and mid power and torque is needed for rapid overtaking of slower moving traffic.... Occasionaly dragging another car at the lights etc will take place.
General outline of the proposed engine... 89mm, suitable cam, light flywheel, twin webers, headers, suitably worked head.
Now the choices...
Crank - Stick to the stock crank or go for a new billet steel unit ? - if the latter, why ?
Pistons - Forged pistons yes but standard compression height or "slipper" pistons which require a 7" rod ?
Rods - If the decision is to stick with standard compression height pistons, should I stick with stock rods or use billet ?
Thanks in advance
#2
Posted 02 February 2012 - 10:14 PM
But I suspect you are either looking to rip off your customer, or havin' a laff, CJ.
JOhn
Edited by john.r.davies, 02 February 2012 - 10:15 PM.
#4
Posted 03 February 2012 - 12:59 PM
He actually wants a 92mm bore engine. I managed to kind of talk him out of it and bring it down to 89mm but today he sent in a spare block and asked that I attempt to do the 92mm bore liners on that and if that fails to go with the 89mm on the complete engine.
Those are the specs he wants... ideally 92 or 89mm bore, suitably modified head (this will be bespoke done in UK and imported), a suitable cam, light flywheel, headers and twin webers... This is what he wants.
He wants something close to 200BHP
The rest of the car is already set up with all the steering and suspension mods, servo assisted disc brakes front and rear etc.
He kept building up the rest of the car to take the power and now finally he wants the engine built so ...
I would appreciate your input on the question in my original post
#7
Posted 03 February 2012 - 05:01 PM
Racing parts
#8
Posted 03 February 2012 - 09:33 PM
Regards
Tony
#9
Posted 04 February 2012 - 09:25 AM
surely this is being a little harsh on Ceejay? In a world where the customer is meant to be king, if the customer wants something inappropriate surely the customer can have it? Have you never bought something inappropriate just because you wanted it?
I suspect a lead weight in the customers right boot would do the trick.
regards kev
#10
Posted 04 February 2012 - 04:17 PM
I built him a TR4 engine for his TR2 some years back.
It was 86mm but i opened up the combustion chambers to lower the comp ratio to around 8:1 then supercharged it.
He still uses that engine but wants more power for the TR4.
The man has pleanty money and pleanty of spare engines and parts.... So he doesnt mind experimenting, spending bags of money and blowing up his expensive engines.
He enjoys eccessive power and doesnt mind spending anything to get it. (i have built him a 350 bhp supercharged engine for his mk2 jag)
I told him it was not advisable to build such a potent engine for a road going TR and reminded him about the weak cranks on them but he was insistant on those specs.
I figured this would be the place to get some help and advice with choice of parts for this build but now im begining to doubt that thought.
ceejaay
#11
Posted 04 February 2012 - 10:06 PM
your request is more than a little out of the ordinary, hardly surprising if it's greeted with some bemused responses.
200bhp from a wetliner 4 isn't impossible, but the end result will be more of a competition than a road engine, and it'll need some serious revs applying to strut its stuff.
There aren't many cars around with that sort of grunt, and TR4 Tony probably knows more than most about competing with a 200bhp 4 . . . .
Your suggestion of "Low and mid power and torque is needed for rapid overtaking of slower moving traffic.... Occasionaly dragging another car at the lights etc will take place" isn't really compatible with a 200 horse screamer.
Forced induction is probably nearer the mark, so I'd reckon you are back to the supercharger - and a billet steel crank and top notch rods and pistons would seem mandatory. TR Enterprises or Racetorations might have some useful experience to offer.
Cheers,
Alec
#12
Posted 05 February 2012 - 12:02 AM
#13
Posted 05 February 2012 - 01:56 PM
Steve Chapman, competing in the UK with a TR4 in the UK, has bought then an identical crankshaft. I met him some months ago and he told me that his cranshaft has not been built into an engine yet, perhaps he's willing to sell it? These cranks are billet steel, with dummy main bearings : it has 8 counterweights,so every cylinder is balanced on it's own. The big ends are smaller than standard : Mercedes W116 bearing shells do fit.
This same Mr Nuyts has built for me a rather special TR3 engine block : it has steel liners, pressed in the machined block and welded(!) at the top, so there are no wet liners, the top of the engine block is flat. After fitting, the liners are reamed to size, 92mm and coated with nikasil. Nikasil is very slippery and has excellent lubrication properties. Honda, Porsche, Rover... have used nikasil in the eighties, but problems occured, because of the high sulfur content in the fuel then. Now the sulfur content is drastically lowered, so that problem must have gone. Sadly the Triumph Competition lowered the maximal bore to 89mm. I've used that block in 2 races of another competition, once with a cast iron cylinder head and once with a lightweight one : no problem occured with the engine block or the head gasket. 92mm bore x 96 mm stroke is 2.550 cc. 92 mm bore does great things for the torque, because of the better flow (less inlet valve shrouding). Is this a way to get lots of torque and about 200 bhp?
MarcelV. M., Belgium.
#14
Posted 05 February 2012 - 07:38 PM
PS
89mm + 3mm off set gives the same amount of valve unshrouding as 92mm pistons,... well it did when I used it in 1996. It didn't give 200HP but the engine was faster than those that did. !
Mick Richards
#15
Posted 06 February 2012 - 11:13 AM
Cheers
Tony
Tony Millward
Western Australia
1971 TR6 PI
1954 TR2 TS 3949
Daily runabout...Toyota Prado Grande
My TR6 Restoration
Horsepower is how fast you are going when you hit that tree,
Torque is how far the tree moved when you hit it.
#16
Posted 28 February 2012 - 06:46 PM
If he's got access to E85 fuel 200hp would be achievable with normal CR and normal rpm limit, but double normal mbep.
If he has no access to E85 but runs a business he should look at this as an alternative:
http://customs.hmrc....ment#P178_18889
( section 3.5 bioethanol, specifically TSDA11).
Dual fuel it - 97RON up until it risks detonation, then switch to ethanol. Easily 200hp that way.
But dont expect TRR scheme to insure it.

"When you hear hoofbeats, look for horses, not zebras."
-----------
"Once you're over the hill you begin to pick up speed"
#17
Posted 01 March 2012 - 05:09 PM
If it was me I'd stick another engine and gearbox in it, for example a Ford Zetec or even a 3 litre V6.
Is the rear end up to it?
Ash
#18
Posted 01 March 2012 - 08:59 PM

"When you hear hoofbeats, look for horses, not zebras."
-----------
"Once you're over the hill you begin to pick up speed"
#19
Posted 02 March 2012 - 02:36 PM
Edited by jellison, 02 March 2012 - 03:08 PM.
#20
Posted 02 March 2012 - 02:47 PM
I would not stroke one as they already have a fairly long stroke (Pete Cox did this years back and had just about the fastest TR 4 pot cars and engine combo's), but we are talking full race to get to 200bhp and to be up over 185 you will need 92mm bore and some very trick head work.
Steel crank is no different to a std one in terms of making it more complex - just means it will pull higher revs and free up the power at those revs - but pointless unless you have a very serious head that can flow the power high up (Marvmul knows this
It is really how much he wants to spend.
A full race TR4 is easier to run on the road than a 6 pot TR race lump (they need revs) as much bigger bore and can pull frorm lower revs (piston area), more of a torquey motor, but with a cam and head (+bottom end to hand those 2) it will not make any where near 200bhp AND pull from lower to mid rpm with no fuss - you just can't have everything in these old engines (need trick Fi).
You can't have the low end grunt and top end power, if you what as close to having the ultimate 4 pot TR it will Really cost. You will not get 200bhp from a 4 pot TR without it being "Full Race" and bigger bore that and fia (87mm) engine, and it will need a fantastic head and induction setup (Marvmul know this
Here's my 4 with a no limits engine (but nothing in this engine off the shelf) - http://blip.tv/jrell...te-2006-3573639 (pity about the big fly!). But this is beyond what anyone would really ever build for a regular road car.
This lump is going back in on Sunday after a freshen up, then on the rollers and the road for some summer fun
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