Mike C
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I generally use a normal spanner on prop shaft flanges but on occasion I've used a torque spanner with a crow's foot extension- you need to measure the extra length of the crow's foot and adjust the torque setting down to compensate.
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The colour can be hard to tell in the rear view mirror. It its in any way white or grey it's probably worn piston rings/bores.
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I'd check the timing with a timing light and see if it moves/disappears during the farts and bangs.
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I use petrol or kero to remove the gunk and then blow it clear with compressed air. There's not a huge volume of air flowing through the trap.
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If the "PCV" has just wire gauze in it its a flame trap. It's the gauze that needs periodic cleaning.
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It's usually in the vent line connected to the side of the cover( looks like the PCV fitted to later cars) and can block.
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Pump cavitating or PRV sticking at full bypass?
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Is the tank venting properly ? Open the cap and see if things improve. Maybe the run heated the fuel so much it's boiling in the pump suction line. In this case it will improve when the tank cools down. Where is the pressure gauge tapping? The gauge is not showing 108 psi.
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OK. Could be heat soak from the block to the coolant -the 10 min delay is a characteristic of this cause-this has happened to me occasionally on 40+C deg days in an old V8 Holden after a few hours running at high speed. These days if this is likely to happen I idle the engine for 5 mins or so after stopping to cool things down.
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Forget the coolant colour. I'd check the coolant foam for combustion gases, in Australia a test kit for these gases is around $50.
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If you rev the engine with the radiator cap off, radiator full of coolant, do you see bubbles appear?
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Whatever your decision, you may want to consider that most TR tyres these days age expire long before they're worn out.
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Thanks for the reply on my TR6 250 I didn't know anything about the rear main front big bearings the car is running smooth until it gets warm and it seems to lose oil pressure I put a brand new aluminum oil pump in there and until it gets up to running temperature it seems to be fine even drives fine but then loses a little bit of power once it warms up it loses oil pressure even with the new pump in there I don't know what to do then feels like it starts to vibrate from the crank but when it's cold it has pressure and runs good and has power
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Have you checked the oil pressure relief valve? It might be jammed from a bit of bearing swarf and bypassing oil before it's supposed to open.
Did you mention the new aluminum oil pump on the main TR6 forum? I know a lot of the blokes on here have had problems with new pumps and I assume you primed the new pump properly before you started the engine?
If there's any doubt drop the sump and have a look at the main, big end and thrust bearings. There's a lot of info on the forum on how to do this. In particular the thrust bearings are a real TR6 weak spot- they get loaded when you depress the clutch- I don't depress the clutch when I start the engine as there's no oil pressure in the thrust bearings.
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