pinky Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 hi mike just noticed the pics, the black shit on the calipers is the seal around the caliper it melts, producing this hard black substance that can be picked of, it is were the calliper gets to hot. The problem that you have can also be caused by the servo pumping pressure and not releasing I pulled my hair out with this problem I replaced the servo to, when it happened to me pink Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 hi mike just noticed the pics, the black shit on the calipers is the seal around the caliper it melts, producing this hard black substance that can be picked of, it is were the calliper gets to hot. The problem that you have can also be caused by the servo pumping pressure and not releasing I pulled my hair out with this problem I replaced the servo to, when it happened to me pink Or it can be the plastic backing some pads, like EBC Greenstuff have. As a side note: I have those and according to EBC, no shims are required for these pads. Regards, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 Certainly is, TRGB were adamant that the previous issues had been resolved with these units, they're happy to exchange it for another one but I don't want to waste more time on another TRW unit. Have i missed something here ? did you not say that the master cylinder came from TR Shop. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steves_TR6 Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 This is turning into a saga, like the one i had with my first tr6 when i bought it. I could not get a decent pedal for any length of time, and very poor braking efficiency After MUCH exasperation i found a very slightly leaky brake flare was sucking air into the master cylinder, AND the brake disks were contaminated with something , no idea what but it had no grip! We all like to think out car’s symptoms have a single cause, and here that looked like the servo rod clearance, but seems not. A methodical approach should help, I thonk i’d swap in a known good master cylinder next. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jah Posted March 17, 2018 Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 Check out Steves_TR6 suggestion. Tom. +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted March 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 Don't know what's available in the UK but I use Dynagrip on the brake pads of all my vehicles - https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwif16766PHZAhXIu7wKHW4xBXoQFggnMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.dynagrip.biz%2Fdisc-brake&usg=AOvVaw3P65zL4NZY6MQKqjjWGpF3 I've has too many problems with brake squeal without it especially the TR6 (even with the anti squeal shims fitted) and the SLK. The squeal was especially pronounced with Red Stuff pads . If the PO was caught with squealing brakes he might have tried anything to stop it , silicon comes to mind. It could be silicon, however, the callipers, discs & pads were fitted by a garage, a very few miles ago Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted March 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 Have i missed something here ? did you not say that the master cylinder came from TR Shop. No, the callipers that were installed came from the TRShop, the replacement M/cyl came from TRGB Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted March 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 Or it can be the plastic backing some pads, like EBC Greenstuff have. As a side note: I have those and according to EBC, no shims are required for these pads. Regards, Waldi These were generic standard pads Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted March 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2018 hi mike just noticed the pics, the black shit on the calipers is the seal around the caliper it melts, producing this hard black substance that can be picked of, it is were the calliper gets to hot. The problem that you have can also be caused by the servo pumping pressure and not releasing I pulled my hair out with this problem I replaced the servo to, when it happened to me pink The calliper seals were fine once I'd cleaned them off, the NS seal had popped out in the gap on the spring, larger gap than normal, but otherwise they were intact. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mattyb Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 (edited) On the subject of calipers .... here's a pic of one of the calipers on a 1984 Mini - bought very cheaply as a "stalled" restoration ......... A pat on the back for the first person who can point out what was wrong ! Ian, Hope your TR6 ownership experience improves for you soon - I'm sure it will Regards Matt pic now attached on next post....... Edited March 19, 2018 by mattyb Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mattyb Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 PIc now attached ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 Bleed nipple at the bottom. I'm an experienced expert on this subject Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mattyb Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 well done Roger ! The Mini also had 2 brake compensaters fitted - front and back - have spent the last 8 years going through every thing on the mini (not just the brakes !) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 Yep wouldnt be the first time Ive seen that too and on a clutch slave as well."Oh I thought the fluid would run out better so would be easier to bleed!" Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mattyb Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 I'm sure you could write a book on some of the things you've seen Stuart - some of it quite frightening I would imagine Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted March 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 I see what's wrong, however, on my previous car, a Series 2 E-type, the clutch slave bleed nipple IS at the bottom of the unit, bleeding it is challenging! On the subject of calipers .... here's a pic of one of the calipers on a 1984 Mini - bought very cheaply as a "stalled" restoration ......... A pat on the back for the first person who can point out what was wrong ! Ian, Hope your TR6 ownership experience improves for you soon - I'm sure it will Regards Matt pic now attached on next post....... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 I'm sure you could write a book on some of the things you've seen Stuart - some of it quite frightening I would imagine Your not kidding, more than most on ex US cars as well. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted March 19, 2018 Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 I see what's wrong, however, on my previous car, a Series 2 E-type, the clutch slave bleed nipple IS at the bottom of the unit, bleeding it is challenging! It really shouldnt be. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted March 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2018 It really shouldnt be. Stuart. It is according to all the manuals I've seen, if you buy pre cut pipework, it isn't long enough to reach the underside either, this was a design fault. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted March 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 21, 2018 It stops I bought a reconditioned m/cyl from Conrad, fitted it this morning, bled the brakes and nothing, scratched head, cracked brake pipes entering m/cyl to see if that bled anything, slight improvement, bled system again and I now have a firm pedal and a functioning brake system. Thanks to all for your help & advice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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