Sibbo66 Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 Hi I have a just received the new main wiring loom for my 1971 TR6 from Auto sparks I have never fitted one before and as I never took the old one out, any advice on the best way to start? I would be very grateful. I have a bare shell with the engine in Regards Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Chris59 Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 Did you get the can of "Lucas genuine fumes" with your loom ? If not, you're lost. Coat on (fire) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 Hi Tim ~ My advice is ~ identify every wire from a wiring diagram and label them accordingly. This is what I did for my 3A. If your original wiring is still in place then cut every wire in the harness from every instrument then you can easily identify the colour codes. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 Did you get the can of "Lucas genuine fumes" with your loom ? If not, you're lost. Coat on (fire) Oldie but goodie: http://www3.telus.net/bc_triumph_registry/smoke.htm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 This might help to see where it goes inside the cabin. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRTerry Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 I also had a new loom from them, and I'm very pleased with it. I had the advantage of taking out the old one at the same time which is a help. Although it looks confusing you will find that the wiring will fall in to place once you have the main cable routed. There is a colour coding that makes sense, for example blue for headlights, a white stripe indicates from a switch etc. There is a coloured wiring guide that also helps http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf Just make sure you get the right white wires to the ignition switch. I miswired and could not get the car to start as I had connected a wrong wire to the switch contact that breaks when all others make. A bugger to detect as it appeared to be correct when in the off position. Use a meter and or continuity checker. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 I also had a new loom from them, and I'm very pleased with it. I had the advantage of taking out the old one at the same time which is a help. Although it looks confusing you will find that the wiring will fall in to place once you have the main cable routed. There is a colour coding that makes sense, for example blue for headlights, a white stripe indicates from a switch etc. There is a coloured wiring guide that also helps http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf Just make sure you get the right white wires to the ignition switch. I miswired and could not get the car to start as I had connected a wrong wire to the switch contact that breaks when all others make. A bugger to detect as it appeared to be correct when in the off position. Use a meter and or continuity checker. Unfortunately the Advance auto diagrams are for US models so they do differ for the layman to use. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Keith66 Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 Hi Tim, I'm in a similar position also having an Autosparks harness to fit. Firstly you could do with...a nice big dry heated double garage, i don't, lol, so i'm in no rush at present esp as my car isn't even at home. But as Fireman says label everything up from the wiring diagram so you have an idea where everything goes, i did notice you said you said you didn't take the old harness out, so its slow painstaking reading to make sure you know whats what. Alot is simple enough and pretty obvious from the harness shape where things are but the behind dash area is at best difficult and often you are lying in the footwell working blind above you. Ed_h on here but based in the US has a great option for this, he puts connection plugs (proper ones) behind the dash and built the dash off the car, (explained very well on his website) which is a great idea but i've yet to bite the bullet and go that route, not yet anyway. But all the best Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sibbo66 Posted January 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 Hi guys Sadly no heated double garage. Thanks once again Stuart a picture says a thousand words. I have 2 old looms which came in a box with the car one has some labelling, I will use this as a guild with the dash instruments. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elclem1 Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 If it helps any I wired everyth8ng up out of the car, tested everything worked then took photos and fitted it to the car. It worked for me. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
openroad Posted January 17, 2018 Report Share Posted January 17, 2018 Hi Tim, also the wiring loom can seem very stiff when cold, so a warm garage helps, I didn't have that so had a blow heater in the tub, when I put the harness in place under the dash....made life a Lot easier. Have fun, Conrad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Will Posted January 19, 2018 Report Share Posted January 19, 2018 Tim, If the harness is still out of the car it’s easier to do any modification you need: If deleting ignition buzzers, seat belt interlocks, anti run of valve, those circuits can be insulated and tied back. If you wish to delete the ignition ballast, that can also be addressed. You may need to change a couple of dash light sockets so check if they fit your gauges, and the type of bulb you wish to use beforehand. You will get to dread time spent under the dash and squirming out when you need another tool or find a modification necessary. You will get to know your electrical system quite well. Eric. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Prefect Posted January 20, 2018 Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 Tim Did you order new part looms for the headlights? Now is a good time to fit relays to the lighting circuit, the other option is to install a good supply for a 12V socket for GPS for phone and another for the radio. Also do you have an electronic rev counter as that needs accommodating as well as would an electric fan. As mine is a CR and I needed an short part loom for the ignition switch I don't know about a CP. You will need a good supply of bullet connectors male and female there are two types brass and alloy the brass ones a best if you can solder them or the alloy for crimping but even with the correct gun they are not brilliant so solder if you can. All from Autosparks if you like. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted January 20, 2018 Report Share Posted January 20, 2018 (edited) I have a 1970 LHD CP with steering lock and have installed the new loom from Autosparks and also ordered the separate loom to the lock, it is only 4 or 5 wires but give the modest price better to order this from Autosparks. Also ordered an OD harness and the little white wire to the distributor, which are not included in the main harness. Regards, Waldi Edited January 20, 2018 by Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 I have a 1970 LHD CP with steering lock and have installed the new loom from Autosparks and also ordered the separate loom to the lock, it is only 4 or 5 wires but give the modest price better to order this from Autosparks. Also ordered an OD harness and the little white wire to the distributor, which are not included in the main harness. Regards, Waldi Left hand drive new loom fitted here Waldi. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 I have a new loom sat in a box waiting the day to be fitted. What’s the white wire connected to distributor for? What do I order if I don’t have one? Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 (edited) It runs from the coil to the side connector on the distributor. Edited January 21, 2018 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 Hi Stuart, That looks allmost like my car, which is also signal red. For those who are planning to include relais for items like fuel pump and lights: I ordered them to be fitted under the dash, and that is what Autosparks supplied. On hindsight, i should have installed them lower, on the side panel, where there is more space. Regards, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Prefect Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 In my opinion the best place for the relays for the lights is down by the LHS bonnet hinge near to the lights themselves. If a heavy duty (27 strand) wire is taken from a fused supply from the battery for the supply to the relays the existing wires can simply be used to operate the relay coils and then also be reused to supply the lights after the relays are inserted. I can provide a wiring diagram if required. This arrangement will improve the voltage presented to the lights considerably. I also feel the best lenses by far are the Cibie 7in now made to same pattern by Valeo. The originals cost a fortune but the new ones are value for money from feabay. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 I disagree. Out of the way of water ingress up in the passenger footwell is where I specified Autosparks to place mine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Prefect Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 location location location! Each to his own. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted January 21, 2018 Report Share Posted January 21, 2018 Thanks Pete, I’ll get on to autosparks and order one of those, I had all the extra relays on my loom placed in the passenger footwell out of sight. Seemed the logical thing to do. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 22, 2018 Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 I disagree. Out of the way of water ingress up in the passenger footwell is where I specified Autosparks to place mine. If you look at the above picture from the red L/hand drive car there is a relay block which I fit either to the footwell side for L/hand drive cars with the kick board trim cut out to suit, or under the footwell top for R/hand drive. I use a large strip of Velcro for fixing that way if you ever need to change any of the relays or fuses you can easily detach the block and pull it down to see what your doing rather than head up under the footwell! This means they are all out of the weather, this is another reason Im not keen on Revingtons auxiliary fuse box/relay setup that is designed to sit on top of the footwell, last one I seen had filled up with water with the inevitable consequences. Stuart. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted January 22, 2018 Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 Thanks for the tip Stuart, really good idea. I will adopt that when I come to fit mine. Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted January 22, 2018 Report Share Posted January 22, 2018 If you look at the above picture from the red L/hand drive car there is a relay block which I fit either to the footwell side for L/hand drive cars with the kick board trim cut out to suit, or under the footwell top for R/hand drive. I use a large strip of Velcro for fixing that way if you ever need to change any of the relays or fuses you can easily detach the block and pull it down to see what your doing rather than head up under the footwell! This means they are all out of the weather, this is another reason Im not keen on Revingtons auxiliary fuse box/relay setup that is designed to sit on top of the footwell, last one I seen had filled up with water with the inevitable consequences. Stuart. Stuart. So good they named him twice. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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