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TR4A Waterpump Pulley


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Hi All

 

I've bought an uprated waterpump for my 1967 TR4A as well as a new pully (standard wide belt). It's a bold-on and not a press-on. However, I can't get the damn thing on the shaft even without the key.

 

Any ideas? Should I bake the pulley in my oven to heat it up (when the wife is not looking of course)?

 

Thanks

 

Andrew

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Hello Andrew,

 

Don’t forget that if you go for the heating up method, and the pulley ends up too far back, or too far forwards, you may not be able to get it off again for a second try.

 

Charlie D.

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Hi Andrew,

we are spoilt for choice. Too many different parts.

They are not necessary wrong but incompatible.

 

DO NOT heat/freeze the parts together. Get the correct parts

 

You may find the uprated pump is rubbish.

The standard pump works well. But you must calculate the depth of the vanes into the body. Some vanes are short - not good.

 

Roger

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More junk again!

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Hi Folks,

before they are condemned it needs to be found what the problem is. You can get parallel shaft with a key or tapered shafts.

If they have been mixed then they will not fit.

 

However I am fully aware of the wonderous cock-ups that are possible.

 

Roger

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Before we get too carried away with criticising modern repro parts . . . . .

 

Last week I was juggling a box full of water pumps, pulleys etc looking to select the right items for two engine rebuilds- all pukka Stanpart component, new and used, from back in the day. All wide belt, obviously.

 

Apart from parallel and tapered shafts, I discovered that of three pumps with pulleys already fitted, once stripped for inspection none were interchangeable . . . . . no question about which pump went with which pulley ! :rolleyes:

 

Now quite how someone like Moss copes with that sort of dilemma is an open question . . . . and I'd suggest that the answer is to make the fit a little on the tight side such that it can be reamed out if necessary. After all, there's not much can be done if the pulley is loose and spins on the shaft now, is there ?

 

All of which brings back memories of helping in Uncle Tug's garage as a lad, and the occasional explosions from Uncle along the lines of " It's Stan Bl**dy Part again, clenching his bl**dy bum cheeks, bring me the *rs* borer and I'll roger the queer b*st*rd . . . . "

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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Hi All

 

I've bought an uprated waterpump for my 1967 TR4A as well as a new pully (standard wide belt). It's a bold-on and not a press-on. However, I can't get the damn thing on the shaft even without the key.

 

Any ideas? Should I bake the pulley in my oven to heat it up (when the wife is not looking of course)?

 

Thanks

 

Andrew

Have you fitted the pump yet?

If not do a bit of measuring

The depth from the pump mounting face to the machined surface in the pump housing.

The length of the old pump vanes from pump mounting face to vane depth/tip

The length of the New uprated pump vanes from pump mounting face to vane depth/tip

 

Subtract the pump vane length from the pump housing depth and you get the tip running clearance - you are seeking a clearance of about 0.010" -0.015" Any more and the pump is stirring rather than pumping.

 

The cheap 'uprated' pumps have a running clearance near 0.080" - not an improvement at all, in terms of pump efficiency.

 

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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Thanks everyone for your feedback. Seems this was a schoolboy error. I bought the pump from Moss and then later inadvertently the pulley from Rimmer.

I've ordered a compatible pulley from Moss to hopefully solve the problem.

Thought these things would be interchangeable.

 

I thought every bit of extra cooling I could get would be good with an uprated pump (while I had the head off). Together with a radiator cowl and existing vented wings, I should hopefully be able to stick with the standard fan setup.

 

Regards

Andrew

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Problem is Andrew, 75% of the time the 4 pot runs too cold and maybe 10-25% of time it needs a little help so the best solution is throw the original fan and extension away and fit a narrow belt conversion with an electric fan.

A standard pump with a rebuilt Rad will be fine.

Really depends on whether you want a car that looks original or one that's driveable come what on modern roads.

Leaving the building now ????

 

Regards Chris

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Problem is Andrew, 75% of the time the 4 pot runs too cold and maybe 10-25% of time it needs a little help so the best solution is throw the original fan and extension away and fit a narrow belt conversion with an electric fan.

A standard pump with a rebuilt Rad will be fine.

Really depends on whether you want a car that looks original or one that's driveable come what on modern roads.

Leaving the building now

 

Regards Chris

Or even keep the standard wide belt and pulley but fit an electric fan!

 

Pete

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The wide belt was fine for Ferguson tractor (limited to 2000 rpm) and Vanguard (seldom would these have exceeded 4000 rpm), but not really fit for a TR which is easily capable of 5000 rpm and more.

Not only that, but, as had been stated so often, replacing a broken wide belt can be a pig of a job.

Ian Cornish

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I have a 92 Degree thermostat. Is that standard and effective?

Bit on the high side 86C more effective, I run a wide belt still and dont have any overheating issues with a TR6 plastic fan and a proper header tank.

Stuart.

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...75% of the time the 4 pot runs too cold and maybe 10-25% of time it needs a little help...

 

Maybe in the UK! Around here, with stop-and-go driving-season temperatures over 32°C for weeks on end, my wet-liner four struggles to stay cool.

 

Over the next few weeks I'll install one of Mark Macy's "Hurricane" fans on my car. It'll be interesting to see how this does.

i-JhzmRZk-X3.jpg

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Maybe in the UK! Around here, with stop-and-go driving-season temperatures over 32°C for weeks on end, my wet-liner four struggles to stay cool.

 

Over the next few weeks I'll install one of Mark Macy's "Hurricane" fans on my car. It'll be interesting to see how this does.

i-JhzmRZk-X3.jpg

Is this building in something else to go wrong - ie the fan clutch - are they standard from some other USA built car? If not it could get pricey when it decides to fail. Or is this just a plastic fan and adaptor to fit on the front crank extension? - no thermal clutch at all.

 

Here is some reading - http://www.haydenauto.com/Featured%20Products-Fan%20Clutches%20and%20Fan%20Blades/Content.aspx

 

 

 

Peter W

Edited by BlueTR3A-5EKT
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It's just a metal hub to hold the nylon blades, Peter. No clutch. I agree a clutch would be more complexity than needed or desired!

 

Here's a different image showing the metal hub and plastic blades.

i-MQnH3nf.jpg

Edited by Don H.
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