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Currently in the middle of my nut and bolt restoration and shortly having everything media blasted and in preparation i'm painting stripping all the flat areas of the panels as i'm fully aware of the issue of warping when blasting these areas...

 

i want to prime all the bits i do but am confused on what to use?

 

etch primer

wash primer

epoxy primer

 

i have read that its not a good idea putting filler on top of etch primer....? there will be minimum filler, just for imperfections.

Also should i use a high build primer over whatever i use to seal the panels from corrosion...?

 

25 plus years ago i worked in a bodyshop so panel beating and spraying is not an issue but things have changed massively since cellulose...! i have used 2k but its just the priming is an issue.

 

all comments welcome :)

 

nick

 

 

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Hello, Nick.

 

Lots of good approaches for this, but I'll tell you the process I use which seems to work.

 

I use an epoxy DTM (Direct To Metal) primer first. The product I use says to not use any etch coating or chemical treatment, other than a degreaser. It also advises that any filler will bond better to the primer than to bare metal, so filling should go on top of the epoxy primer.

 

Next, for final surfacing on panels that will show, a polyester primer is used. It builds quicker, and is easier to sand than the epoxy primer. For areas that don't show, I skip this step.

 

Then color coat(s).

 

Ed

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Hello, Nick.

 

Lots of good approaches for this, but I'll tell you the process I use which seems to work.

 

I use an epoxy DTM (Direct To Metal) primer first. The product I use says to not use any etch coating or chemical treatment, other than a degreaser. It also advises that any filler will bond better to the primer than to bare metal, so filling should go on top of the epoxy primer.

 

Next, for final surfacing on panels that will show, a polyester primer is used. It builds quicker, and is easier to sand than the epoxy primer. For areas that don't show, I skip this step.

 

Then color coat(s).

 

Ed

 

 

+1

Edited by graeme
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I used Bondarust on bare metal as recommended by Stuart and by Mark above. Its a single stage product which can be thinned with cellulose thinners. Excellent product and forms an excellent base for 2k high build primer. Have now finished the painting of my tub and all panels except the doors and am very pleased with the results. As Mark says it can be applied and the panels left for a long time without any problem. My chassis has been in bondarust for the last 4 years whilst I used it as a jig to rebuild the body.

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I can testify that Bonda Primer is very durable.....I rebuilt may car in 1979......where i had paint chips/flaking underneath, the Bonda Primer was still there, no rust after 35 years. I wont be using anything else.

 

Iain

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Thats what Bondarust started as many years ago I think.

Stuart.

Correct, it used to be marketed by a company in Beckenham, just down the road from where I lived.

 

They also sold G4 which was a water activated polyester resin that I used to treat my cellar. Stopped the water coming in instantly

 

Rgds Ian

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sorry for the late reply... real life sometimes takes over...!

 

thanks very much for your input, the chap that is going to be blasting is going to etch the tub so it maybe that i etch the rest. luckily i have a heated garage so i'm not overly concerned about flash rusting,

 

I've now paint stripped almost all the flat areas of the panels in preparation for blasting the rest at the end of Feb, now just need to find a good quality etch.

 

i think i'm going to go down the road of 2k solid top coat, but I've also read that some lacquer / clear coat over this to get a really deep shine...? the only issue i can see with this chips are harder the fix...might just be i put lots of paint on and flat and polish it to death...!

 

cheers

 

 

 

Nick

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