Tim D. Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 Hi chaps, So have sprung a leak.. not personally.. but in the TR. The leak is in the cooling system and is in the THE most annoying place. The upper pipe of the heater.. (actually it would be more annoying if it was in the heater! I have replaced the pipe (hanging upside down head first the footwell.. fun fun fun!!). And it is not that.. Instead it seems to be a pin hole in the pipe itself just before it enters the heater box. I can see a mark not he pipe and see the coolant squirting from the same region.. Now I don't want to remove the heater.. did that last year and it is a real pain.. So am thinking of one or more of three options.. 1) epoxy putty 2) self amalgamating silicone tape 3) solder 1) looks the easiest, but if it doesn't work it will be difficult to undo 2) is more difficult as you have to maintain the tension on the tape as you use it.. Not sure how permanent it would be but would be easy to remove if it doesn't work 3) would be the most perfect, but not sure if there is enough access and if there is I am not sure I could get enough heat into the pipe with my soldering iron and not sure I want to work with it above my face in a confined area! Suppose I could look at the logistics of 3 more closely. If it doesn't look OK I could do 2 and if it fails do 1.. What do you guys think? Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 Many years ago I saw the consequences of a pin hole leak in one of the heater pipes, which suddenly turned to a major leak as the unfortunate owner was hacking down the M23 at speed . . . . . . By the time he had managed to come to a stop on the hard shoulder and extricate himself, the near-boiling spray had cut through to the bone. It must have been 6 months before he was back to walking reasonably, after 3 months off work, and the legs did not ever fully recover. Much as removing the heater is a grade one pain, it's nothing compared to that experience. Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 Bite the bullet and replace the matrix its only going to get worse in the end. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 Hi Tim, as a temporary fix any of the RadSeal additives will work (RadSeal, BarSeal etc) Take heed of Alec's comment. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 I had many hours of aggravation trying to fit my heater back in about 5 years ago. This winter I removed it so that I could refurb all the parts and adjust the fan so that it did not rattle. It went back in easily because I did not fit the two air hoses. The air manifold adaptor can easily be fitted from below and I am hoping that I can feed the passenger hose through without damage to the wiring. But without the air hoses it was easy. Good luck Richard & H Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted January 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 Hi All, Thanks for the help.. Alec.. note taken.. would be awful if one of the tubes went completely.. Richard.. did you manage getting the heater box back in with out removing the central dash support, gauges, dash, gearbox cover etc? Cheers tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aardvark Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 Tim I managed to get the heater installed without removing the central dash support nor the gearbox tunnel cover. Only the dash and gauges needed to be removed. It was a hideous job though with minimal clearance. Good luck - Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted January 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 Yes I can imagine it is.. I removed it with everything else out of the car and it was bad enough.. not helped but two of the studs that the heater bolts onto shearing (completely rusted up) which meant I had to weld new studs in while lying upside down. Hence not really wanting to remove the whole thing again.. Will sleep on it.. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 You could temporarily fit a bypass loop so that the heater is totally disconnected and dry. Then you can continue to use the car until you have the time to carry out a proper repair. Heaters used to be optional extras on some cars. Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mike3739 Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 You could temporarily fit a bypass loop so that the heater is totally disconnected and dry. Then you can continue to use the car until you have the time to carry out a proper repair. Heaters used to be optional extras on some cars. Alan It worked for me a while back. Cheers Mike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted January 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 Yes that is in my mind as a stop gap. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tr graham Posted January 3, 2018 Report Share Posted January 3, 2018 It can be done without removing dash or gauges using 1/4 drive sockets with flexi head not easy but can be done Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Bourne Posted January 4, 2018 Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 It's a real pain to remove, but I would remove it and replace the matrix. Otherwise you will always fret and worry if it's going to burst and burn you. best Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted January 4, 2018 Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 Have you considered shrink tubing? It would slip over the end of the pipe OK then shrink tight with a bit of heat (hair dryer would probably do it or even a low light on a lighter). Any residue leak should be fixable with radiator dealant. AlanR Quote Link to post Share on other sites
StuartG Posted January 4, 2018 Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 You can get glue lined heatshrink. Company I used to work for used to use it in very harsh environments to stop salt water getting into connectors. Would be worth a try ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted January 4, 2018 Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 Every time that I can recall having seen a heater pipe corroded through to weeping the subsequent removal of the heater revealed that the matrix was not far behind . . . . . as in, about to let go in a big way ! A temporary repair to the pipe might well be the trigger to matrix failure in short order. Yes I know I'm being pessimistic, but the consequences of a major heater leak can be life-changing. Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted January 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2018 Alec, I know what you mean. I removed this matrix about a year ago and gave it a good going over. Perhaps I should have replaced. Hindsight is a great thing. I had a good look at where the leak was last night and it appears to be the result of some damage to the pipe. It looks like it has been gouged at some point in its past. I must have missed it.. So perhaps there is a chance. I am going to think all the options over. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DRD Posted January 5, 2018 Report Share Posted January 5, 2018 Alec, I know what you mean. I removed this matrix about a year ago and gave it a good going over. Perhaps I should have replaced. Hindsight is a great thing. I had a good look at where the leak was last night and it appears to be the result of some damage to the pipe. It looks like it has been gouged at some point in its past. I must have missed it.. So perhaps there is a chance. I am going to think all the options over. Cheers Tim Tim, I fixed a leak on a steel coolant pipe with Quiksteel, its an epoxy putty and hardens up. It seems to have worked when nothing else did. http://www.kalimex.co.uk/our-products/quiksteel Darren Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted January 5, 2018 Report Share Posted January 5, 2018 I've used a similar product on fuel lines with no further problems. When I've used it I've sanded the surface thoroughly then wiped it clean with solvent. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted January 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2018 OK.. I have used some epoxy putty and it seems to be holding up well at the moment. I take on what Alec said and this will only be a temporary measure while I get the car tuned and sort out some bits and bobs.. I liked the idea of the heat shrink but the leak was at the bottom of a dent that had undoubtably led to the leak. I thought that the heat shrink might not work in such a situation.. Also felt that the putty provided more mechanical support for the region of the pipe (which as Alec postulated might be weak..) Have attached a picture before fix. Fingers crossed Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted January 5, 2018 Report Share Posted January 5, 2018 Many years ago I saw the consequences of a pin hole leak in one of the heater pipes, which suddenly turned to a major leak as the unfortunate owner was hacking down the M23 at speed . . . . . . By the time he had managed to come to a stop on the hard shoulder and extricate himself, the near-boiling spray had cut through to the bone. It must have been 6 months before he was back to walking reasonably, after 3 months off work, and the legs did not ever fully recover. Much as removing the heater is a grade one pain, it's nothing compared to that experience. Cheers Alec +1 fully agree with Alec, I had a leak from this area and was getting one drip every 15 to 20 seconds on my ankle it was very painful! You will have to bite the bullet and replace the heat exchanger. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MARK Posted January 8, 2018 Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 I have recently purchased uprated heater motor and an uprated matrix from Clayton for my TR6 on the thought that I dont want to ever go there again!! ( Car stripped out for heater plenum repairs). I found them to be excellent people to deal with direct. Their products seem to be of very quality. I am hoping to have a heater that produces a decent amount of heat ! May also replace heater control valve with uprated one for increased flow (from London Taxi I think). I have also suffered the wet hot leg from a leak from one of the small rubber pipes! Luckely I had just set off and engine was not up to full temp!! Re the repair you can purchase small blowlamps for jewellery repairs etc which you refill like a lighter. If the matrix is leaking it tends to give a distinctive smell, a bit like warm wet biscuits. Give the repair a go before attempting the major surgery!!! Best of luck! MARK Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted January 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 Thanks Mark. Didn't know about the mini blow torches. Have actually fitted a high flow ball valve for the heater which I bought from the US when I was over there. Works really nicely. Unfortunately the need to rebuild the engine is going to divert me for a few months. Doh! Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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