Paul J Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 Reading up on the top ball joint rubber boots I thought it necessary to check mine as they were fitted over one year ago. Totally shot, would not have thought it possible for rubber to deteriorate so fast I hope the rubber manufacturer stays away from the manufacture of condoms! The track rod end gaiters are also on the way out. The spring compressor I used originally was inadequate 12mm not really up to it so reading and seeing Marcos compressor thread gave me an idea that I think is worth sharing. Quite simple to make the yoke swivels in the original bottom shock brackets, though I did get a spare set from Conrad and drilled the hole out to 16mm. The yoke swivels in the bottom brackets also using 16mm stud bar. The Yoke is made from 40mm round BMS with a flat milled on it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 Hi Paul, I'm interested in your comment about 12mm stud being inadequate. I appreciate that big is better in this case but how small is too small. As an exercise I used 8mm with no trouble, although I would suggest using double depth nuts. 10mm with no problems and 12mm is fine. I think the main issue is getting everything working in-line so it doesn't get stuck. I like your bottom joint , very neat indeed. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 Nice job.???????????????????????? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul J Posted December 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 Hi Paul, I'm interested in your comment about 12mm stud being inadequate. I appreciate that big is better in this case but how small is too small. As an exercise I used 8mm with no trouble, although I would suggest using double depth nuts. 10mm with no problems and 12mm is fine. I think the main issue is getting everything working in-line so it doesn't get stuck. I like your bottom joint , very neat indeed. Roger Yes I understand what you mean Roger, when I originally fitted the spring all I had was a piece of 12mm studding of poor quality, my bottom set up was not brilliant so the spring easily influenced the 12mm studding and the whole operation was a little precarious. As you say the main issue is having a direct inline set up. With past experience when making any drawing or pulling gear its always worthwhile using the largest size that will fit the workpiece. The 16mm with the double length nut is well over the top for this job but it makes compressing the spring an incredibly easy task. The spring shuddered when it saw the size of my appliance!! Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 The spring shuddered when it saw the size of my appliance!! Paul I think I would also !!!! Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 I know what Paul means by poor quality. The cheap studding you can easily buy from builders merchants is pretty naff stuff and the thread varies from 'ooh-er' to 'bloody Norah'. I saw some recently where the thread form was cut so thin it was little more than a tin-foil spiral wrapped around a stick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 My home made compressor is 12mm Stainless studding. Two normal size nuts locked together at the bottom so they wont move up or down the stud, a normal washer, plus a very large dished washer which fits nicely in the spring pan hole, then at the top a couple of washers, & two normal nuts welded together to increase the No. of threads being used. To use fit a spanner, (or Moles grips work well) on the top pair of nuts, & a socket on the bottom, with a ratchet (I use an air powered ratchet for speed) & away you go. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted December 16, 2017 Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 (edited) Hi Paul, I like your very proper and durable construction that handles as my compressor very well with the spring pan which is not in 90° angle to the rod. M12 x 1,75 is more than enought, the thread of the shock absorber is only "10 mm"! Keep in mind that M16 x 2 is steeper and needs more power and torque to wind the nut. Have you realized "Dr. Doolin´s" groaming on Youtube when he shows how his compressor works? Good quality (8.8, maked yellow according german DIN) I don´t get at the DIY market, I order my bars by a serious dealer. Have much joy with your tool, always work save! Ciao Marco Edited December 16, 2017 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Efuentes Posted December 23, 2017 Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 I went for 14 mm high tensile steel, plus washers and then a thick (1 cm) aluminum plate that fits on the pan studs. I think the larger diameter makes it easier to turn the nut, and will be more durable, as the load is spread over a larger surface..Worked very well. You have to have a bit of faith the first time you use it and you see that mighty spring compressing more and more... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Efuentes Posted December 23, 2017 Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 I went for 14 mm high tensile steel, plus washers and then a thick (1 cm) aluminum plate that fits on the pan studs. I think the larger diameter makes it easier to turn the nut, and will be more durable, as the load is spread over a larger surface..Worked very well. You have to have a bit of faith the first time you use it and you see that mighty spring compressing more and more... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted December 23, 2017 Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 (edited) Edited December 23, 2017 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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