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Having just spent many a happy (?) hour removing all traces of a paper gasket from an aluminium water pump housing I’m looking for a solution - literally.



Do gasket removing sprays actually work in practice on a forty year old gasket?



Is the bond between the paper and the mating surfaces necessary to achieve a seal? Or is it just the tight compression of the gasket between the surfaces that creates the seal, as does caulking? After all PTFE tape does not bond but still seals.



I was wondering if applying a little silicone oil, or PTFE spray to the surfaces of a new gasket would aid later removal but still achieve a satisfactory seal.



Alan

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Hello Alan,

 

I did not realize there was such as thing as “gasket removing spray”.

 

Personally I tend to steer clear of “Specialist” liquids, as I’ve found that either

acetone or alcohol or methol eythol keytone will dissolve just about any sort of glue.

 

Methol eythol keytone is not a very pleasant substance and you need to use it with care. Best to wear gloves and goggles what ever you use. Just make sure that the liquid does not dissolve the gloves and goggles as well!

 

Each of those liquids are readily available on eBay and it’s worth getting a liter of each to keep (In a flame proof cupboard) in case you need them.

 

Charlie

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You could try putting Wellseal on the gasket first, it never sets just gets a bit tacky (I've got a small metal drawer in the garage that a tube of Wellseal leaked into around 10 years ago, the cabinet is over a radiator but the Wellseal is still soft and tacky!). I've never thought this stuff any good as a sealant, more a paper gasket conditioner, the paper does the sealing, Wellseal protects the paper.

Cheers Rob

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Alan

 

Have a look at Permatex 80022 Sensor-Safe Blue RTV Silicone Gasket Maker. Successfully, used it recently together with the gaskets on the thermo housing of my 3A where getting a watertight seal was challenging. It may be of help.

 

Miles

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Elin Yakov a chap in Canada thats posts a lot on YouTube on Triumph engine and gearbox O/D uses this stuff with great success. And he buys it himself (not sponsored)

 

Permatex 80019 Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant Liquid Gasket Maker 4oz. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/282025973152

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You could try putting Wellseal on the gasket first, it never sets just gets a bit tacky (I've got a small metal drawer in the garage that a tube of Wellseal leaked into around 10 years ago, the cabinet is over a radiator but the Wellseal is still soft and tacky!). I've never thought this stuff any good as a sealant, more a paper gasket conditioner, the paper does the sealing, Wellseal protects the paper.

Cheers Rob

Hi Rob,

Welseal is indeed a very good sealant, but in the right place.

The wet liners must have a sealant at the Fo8's and Welseal is perfect for this application. Mainly because it doesn't set hard.

On Head Gasket it works well.

 

The paper gasket is simply something that takes up the uniform space. It is the sealant that fills the non-uniform gaps.

Also a simple paper will eventually wick the fluid through to the other side. So they work but time takes its toll.

The better quality paper gaskets are impregnated with 'stuff' to stop this happening.

 

Roger

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In days gone by my gaskets were made from cornflakes packets and with a bit of Hermetite and they were perfectly adequate.The cutting out with a light ball pein hammer was part of the fun of TRing. However nowadays I tend to buy them and use some other propriatary compound. Must have been following this forum for toooooooo long.

 

James

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Sound very familiar ! The sump gasket on my Hillman Aerominx is cut from a cornflakes (other cereals are available) packet.

I have since acquired a large sheet of proper gasket material which I shall use next time the sump comes off.

 

Bob.

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" It is the sealant that fills the non-uniform gaps."

 

Hi Roger, that's my point, ... in my experience Wellseal only ever seals the joints the didn't need sealing in the first place!! ... it just keeps running, .. I certainly wouldn't use it on figure of 8 gaskets, used to use the old ethanol based Hermtite (the modern stuff is not a patch when it comes to sealing water and water/oil joints) and the last time I changed the liners I used RTV silicone, .... they've been leak free for the last 4 years.

I know many people think that Wellseal is the Bees Knees but I've only ever been disappointed by it's performance.

Cheers Rob

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Hi Rob,

you must use what you have confidence in.

 

On my first 4A rebuild the engine lasted 17 years and was leak free until I took it apart.

Although the steel Fo8's were being nibbled away I think there was probably another good 17 years in it.

 

 

Roger

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There you go Roger, .. the Fo8's weren't being nibbled by oil from the sump, if Wellseal sealed how did the water get to them?

Rob

Wellseal works fine for machined faces where they are a flush fit but no good for casting faces where there are any irregularities in my experience, also if anyone opens a can of it the other side of the workshop you can guarantee your covered in it too!

Stuart.

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