Brake Callipers

[Colin Fairhurst]

I have got a TR3 chassis complete with front and rear suspension. The callipers are missing and the 11" discs are very rusty.

I would like to fit the disc brakes to my TR2 together with the Girling rear axle etc. I can get hold of a set of discs and callipers for the later TR4 and 4a and would like to fit these.

Can anybody describe what is involved in doing this and what other parts are required?

 

Regards, Colin

 

[TomMull]

I am quite sure the caliper mounting plate and tie rod arm are different as well as the calipers and discs. New discs and calipers are much cheaper for the TR4 set up, which is why I had contemplated doing his with mine, but I never followed through and probably never will as things with my original set up seem to be in order now.

Tom

[Hamish]

I have thought of doing this as well to be able to get drilled discs etc

 

So answers will be useful to a few of us

[stuart]

You do need the mounting plate for the later calipers.

Stuart.

[Hamish]

Hi stuart

Is there an obvious difference to the later calliper plates ?

[stuart]

Not having a pair of each off the car here I couldnt tell you off hand Im afraid

Stuart.

[Colin Fairhurst]

You do need the mounting plate for the later calipers.

Stuart.

 

Thanks Tom And Stuart.

Stuart, do you know if there is a difference between the steering arms and if so will it affect the TR2?

 

Regards, Colin

[stuart]

The different steering arms are 1. For the early drum brakes and for the disc brake 3/3a then 2. For the early 4 with 0 degree trunnions then 3. For later4 and 4a with 3 degree trunnions. So If your changing from drums to discs on a 2 you are OK with the arms you have.

Stuart.

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Calipers - TR3-3A early TR4 the pads are retained by plates screwed to the caliper body.

TR4-6 pads are retained by transverse pins, being 1/4 or 3/16 dia. Caliper to bracket bolts did not change until late TR6 when the hydraulic thread went metric. The bolts got a bigger shank.

You will need some hydraulic union changes as TR2-3 drum braked (lLockheed) using BSF threads and all TR3 - early TR6 use Unified threads.

Flex hose on the front fits in a different position to the front suspension/chassis rail when comparing Lockheed to Girling braked sidescreen cars. Revington does a sort of pipe and bracket kit that may help here.

 

Steering arms - all steering box fitted TR 2-3B use the same. TR4 on are different - obvious difference is the size of the taper for the track rod end - TR4 on is bigger than TR2-3B

 

Steering arms TR2-3B - fit the Revington anti bump steer ones - you will gain control over the steering on bumpy roads. You will have to either discard the disc dust shields or pierce a hole to allow the TRE to get as close to the disc as possible.

 

Cheers

Peter W

[Colin Fairhurst]

Very good. It all sounds quite feasible. One problem is that both Moss and Rimmer Bros. show the calliper fixing plates as being NLA.

Which means finding used ones. I suppose there must be some around.

 

Regards, Colin

[Guest ntc]

Better still change the front suspension to 6 spec.

[Lebro]

Revington does a sort of pipe and bracket kit that may help here.

 

Cheers

Peter W

I have a pair of unused Revington pipe & brackets if you need these, just need to add the correct flexi hoses.

 

Currently in BST

 

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/classified/0332/Revingtons-Front-Brake-conversion-kit

 

Bob.

Edited November 17, 2017 by Lebro

[Colin Fairhurst]

I have a pair of unused Revington pipe & brackets if you need these, just need to add the correct flexi hoses.

 

Bob.

Thanks Bob. I will let you know when I have sorted out exactly what I intend to do.

 

Regards, Colin

[Drewmotty]

Better still change the front suspension to 6 spec.

Changing to TR6 suspension will lower the front by about an inch. The late TR4 setup with 3 degree trunnions would be the best option.

[Lebro]

Link to BST now added to post #12

 

Bob.

[Colin Fairhurst]

Better still change the front suspension to 6 spec.

 

 

I would consider changing to 4a front suspension if I could get hold of the necessary parts.

 

Regards, Colin

[Drewmotty]

 

 

I would consider changing to 4a front suspension if I could get hold of the necessary parts.

 

Regards, Colin

4a suspension is the same as the TR6 and features a vertical link with the stub axle mounted about 1 higher than the early cars. It is also designed around pivot points with the lower wishbone alongside rather than above the chassis member so the camber gain characteristics will be way off.

[Lebro]

Changing top wishbones (late TR4 - TR6), top swivel ball joint, & Late TR4 trunnions will give you 3° castor angle keeping your TR3 vertical links.

 

Bob.

[Colin Fairhurst]

Changing top wishbones (late TR4 - TR6), top swivel ball joint, & Late TR4 trunnions will give you 3° castor angle keeping your TR3 vertical links.

 

Bob.

 

Bob,

Thanks very much for that. It is that kind of information that I need.

When you say late TR4 trunnions, does that include TR4a or were they specific to the TR4?

 

Regards, Colin

[Hamish]

Hi Colin

Its these.

http://www.revingtontr.com/product/133839/name/trunnion-tr4-lh-3-degree

 

http://www.revingtontr.com/product/133838/name/trunnion-tr4-rh-3-degree

 

Note they are handed due to the caster built in to them.

 

Available from usual suppliers but revingtons are not over the top with these.

H

Edited November 18, 2017 by Hamish

[Lebro]

Got mine from the TR shop.

Also worth considering:

 

steering geometry kit http://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr3314k/name/steering-geometry-imp-kit-tr2-3b

 

Fulcrum kit upper http://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr3112k/name/fulcrum-kit-upper-tr2-4 (Bastok do a cheaper copy of this - TR shop again)

 

I have done both of these.

The first is definitely worth doing, the second is a pain to set up, as it's trial & error till you get the angle you want.

The Racetorations version is probably easier to set up (& looks neater)

Also anti roll bar, sprung loaded steering box top plate (Revintons), nylon bushes in the centre tie rod.

 

Have fun !

Bob.

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

Got mine from the TR shop.

Also worth considering:

 

steering geometry kit http://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr3314k/name/steering-geometry-imp-kit-tr2-3b

 

Fulcrum kit upper http://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr3112k/name/fulcrum-kit-upper-tr2-4 (Bastok do a cheaper copy of this - TR shop again)

 

I have done both of these.

The first is definitely worth doing, the second is a pain to set up, as it's trial & error till you get the angle you want.

The Racetorations version is probably easier to set up (& looks neater)

Also anti roll bar, sprung loaded steering box top plate (Revintons), nylon bushes in the centre tie rod.

 

Have fun !

Bob.

+ 1 on the above mods.

 

If your vertical posts are worn and need replacing, consider these as an alternative to the fiddly negative camber top fulcrum kit. (which of course works great when set and welded)

 

Item https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/vertical-link-negative-camber-15-tt3003.html

Must be fitted in pairs!!!

 

The very first pair Moss produced are on my TR3A. - Mine was the 'test bed car', 25 years ago.

Peter W

[Drewmotty]

The Revington upper fulcrum kit also changes the height of the fulcrum shaft to raise the virtual roll centre from somewhere underground to just under the virtual front axle. Adjustable wishbones maintain the same pivot position and compromise the geometry by shortening the distance from the pivot to ball joint centre.

Its interesting to see that Revingtons Beta racer has the adjustable top fulcrum but with the addition of a screw adjustment system.