Tony Posted November 11, 2017 Report Share Posted November 11, 2017 Hi all, i have had my back Axle rebuilt with a new crown wheel and pinioun, all new bearings as well as the rear hubs. problem is the axle whines and it gets louder the faster you go. The axle has been back to the suppliers 3 times now and it still whines, so what is the thickest diff oil i could use instead of the usual 85/90 i will try anything now as i do not want to take it out again !! tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 11, 2017 Report Share Posted November 11, 2017 Oil will not fix it. Who did the rebuild? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 11, 2017 Report Share Posted November 11, 2017 Hi Tony, a number of suppliers/builders assemble the diff to the biggest tolerance because it is easier to do so. It may be worth finding somebody who actually knows what they are doing. I've heard good reports from Hardy Engineering in Leatherhead. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Posted November 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2017 I am not sure i should name the supplier, but i will say they are a large very well known company that we all but parts from and the person that rebuilt the diff has been doing it for years. i was hoping that a thicker oil may lower the whine to an acceptable level. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 11, 2017 Report Share Posted November 11, 2017 I am not sure i should name the supplier, but i will say they are a large very well known company that we all but parts from and the person that rebuilt the diff has been doing it for years. i was hoping that a thicker oil may lower the whine to an acceptable level. Why? so some other poor sod has to have the same s!!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT6M Posted November 11, 2017 Report Share Posted November 11, 2017 Try this stuff, after what my findings are wid it, will not use any others sheite oil top makes included, all went black and like thin pish after 1000 mile blast some went black after 300 mile round trip they just cannae stand the heat build up for so long a time at high warp this stuff did,nt, and was still as good as it kem oot the bottle Pro gear 80W/140 - Classic Group Ltd M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted November 11, 2017 Report Share Posted November 11, 2017 Hi Tony, PM sent. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 11, 2017 Report Share Posted November 11, 2017 2+2 =4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Posted November 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2017 Why? so some other poor sod has to have the same s!!!! OK, it was Moss Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 11, 2017 Report Share Posted November 11, 2017 OK, it was Moss There problem make them take it out and sort it ALL at there cost Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted November 12, 2017 Report Share Posted November 12, 2017 Back in the day they used to say sawdust was the way to go !! Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Bracher Posted November 12, 2017 Report Share Posted November 12, 2017 OK, it was Moss And their response..........?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted November 12, 2017 Report Share Posted November 12, 2017 Back in the day they used to say sawdust was the way to go !! Graham Or nylon stockings ! Tried the latter in my 1st car - a tuned Morris 1000. did not work, had to replace axle, easy then, just nip down to the local breakers yard. Happy days. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tony Posted November 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2017 And their response..........?? Send the axle back us and we will sort it out. so its been back 3 times including the first time they rebuilt it and the whine is just the same. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 12, 2017 Report Share Posted November 12, 2017 Again not your problem all the cost is down to them,I would seek legal advice asap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted November 12, 2017 Report Share Posted November 12, 2017 Bob, Never put nylon stockings in your sump. I tried it once in a TR3a with knocking big ends I was trying to sell in the South of France in the 1970’s. I carefully threaded them through the dipstick hole. After about 30 seconds there was no oil pressure at all. I had to remove the sump in a beach car park and discovered they had been sucked around the gauze oil intake. Charlie. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted November 12, 2017 Report Share Posted November 12, 2017 In the early 1960s, my second TR2 produced a regular, periodic thrumming sound when cruising at high speed on the motorway. I put some Molyslip in the rear axle and almost immediately the noise disappeared, and over 5 years and some 60,000 miles, it never came back. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted November 13, 2017 Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 (edited) I posted my rebuild some time ago with all the trouble I had. CWP is often from same supplier if new at all. Mine had bad tolerances at the shaft area at the bearings. Now we see the results! It is a pain to remove the bearings to reshim for proper setting. That must be done several times before the position is perfect. So if they checked the imprint on the crown wheel at all they will have a much bigger tolerance to leave it as it is because they know the bearings will not leave the shafts easy enough. Thicker oil will cure the sound, not the problem. You should know that the CWP is nearly fully quiet when set properly. If there is a small howling in some areas of rpm it is not nice but does no harm. From a point of louder howling the CWP start eating each other. If full wrong it can be killed within 500 miles of driving! The only noise that must be tolerated in these days is howling when engine is pushed. I found out that proper setting with nice sweet contact on crown wheel will still generate noise on the not load side. They simply do not meet together. Send axle back, a friend had same problem, same axle bought on exchange and lost it after 2 years. No warranty although only driven few miles. Exchange was done in winter, car not used, during summer top down howling ingnored, another winter with car not used and the following year it broke on holiday in GB!!!! Edited November 13, 2017 by TriumphV8 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted November 13, 2017 Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 Hi Andreas, If the bearings are such a stiff interference fit and hard to remove, could it be an idea to grind out a set of bearings with a loose fit, just to establish the shim thickness? That's what I would look into if I had to do this on a regular basis. Regards, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted November 13, 2017 Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 Hi Waldi, I do not know if the bearings are precisely same thickness. If they are this might work.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted November 14, 2017 Report Share Posted November 14, 2017 Hi Andreas, Sorry for rhe slow response, I'm travelling for work (Deutschland:)) currently. I thought about that too, but even if they are not, you can measure both and calculate the required adjustment (or shim) from that. Just a thought. Best regards, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Colin Fairhurst Posted November 15, 2017 Report Share Posted November 15, 2017 (edited) Hi Andreas, If the bearings are such a stiff interference fit and hard to remove, could it be an idea to grind out a set of bearings with a loose fit, just to establish the shim thickness? You would have to grind out a set of new bearings. Good quality bearings are extremely expensive. Worn bearings would require thicker shims behind the pinion head bearing and give the wrong pre-load with the replacement bearings. Colin Edited November 15, 2017 by Colin Fairhurst Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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