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Hi all,

 

i have had my back Axle rebuilt with a new crown wheel and pinioun, all new bearings as well as the rear hubs. problem is the axle whines and it gets louder the faster you go.

The axle has been back to the suppliers 3 times now and it still whines, so what is the thickest diff oil i could use instead of the usual 85/90

i will try anything now as i do not want to take it out again !!

 

tony

 

 

 

 

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Hi Tony,

a number of suppliers/builders assemble the diff to the biggest tolerance because it is easier to do so.

 

It may be worth finding somebody who actually knows what they are doing.

 

I've heard good reports from Hardy Engineering in Leatherhead.

 

Roger

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I am not sure i should name the supplier, but i will say they are a large very well known company that we all but parts from and the person that rebuilt the diff has been doing it for years. i was hoping that a thicker oil may lower the whine to an acceptable level.

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I am not sure i should name the supplier, but i will say they are a large very well known company that we all but parts from and the person that rebuilt the diff has been doing it for years. i was hoping that a thicker oil may lower the whine to an acceptable level.

Why? so some other poor sod has to have the same s!!!!

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Try this stuff,

after what my findings are wid it, will not use any others sheite oil

top makes included, all went black and like thin pish after 1000 mile blast

some went black after 300 mile round trip

they just cannae stand the heat build up for so long a time at high warp

 

this stuff did,nt, and was still as good as it kem oot the bottle

 

Pro gear 80W/140 - Classic Group Ltd

 

M

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Back in the day they used to say sawdust was the way to go !!

 

Graham

Or nylon stockings !

 

Tried the latter in my 1st car - a tuned Morris 1000. did not work, had to replace axle, easy then, just nip down to the local breakers yard.

Happy days.

 

Bob.

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Bob,

 

Never put nylon stockings in your sump.

 

I tried it once in a TR3a with knocking big ends I was trying to sell in the South of France in the 1970’s.

 

I carefully threaded them through the dipstick hole.

After about 30 seconds there was no oil pressure at all.

I had to remove the sump in a beach car park and discovered they had been sucked around the gauze oil intake.

 

Charlie.

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In the early 1960s, my second TR2 produced a regular, periodic thrumming sound when cruising at high speed on the motorway. I put some Molyslip in the rear axle and almost immediately the noise disappeared, and over 5 years and some 60,000 miles, it never came back.

Ian Cornish

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I posted my rebuild some time ago with all the trouble I had.

CWP is often from same supplier if new at all. Mine had bad

tolerances at the shaft area at the bearings.

 

Now we see the results!

It is a pain to remove the bearings to reshim for proper setting.

That must be done several times before the position is perfect.

So if they checked the imprint on the crown wheel at all they will

have a much bigger tolerance to leave it as it is because

they know the bearings will not leave the shafts easy enough.

 

Thicker oil will cure the sound, not the problem.

You should know that the CWP is nearly fully quiet when set properly.

If there is a small howling in some areas of rpm it is not nice but does no harm.

From a point of louder howling the CWP start eating each other.

If full wrong it can be killed within 500 miles of driving!

 

The only noise that must be tolerated in these days is howling when engine

is pushed. I found out that proper setting with nice sweet contact on crown wheel

will still generate noise on the not load side. They simply do not meet together.

 

Send axle back, a friend had same problem, same axle bought on exchange

and lost it after 2 years. No warranty although only driven few miles. Exchange was done in winter,

car not used, during summer top down howling ingnored, another winter with car not used

and the following year it broke on holiday in GB!!!!

Edited by TriumphV8
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Hi Andreas,

If the bearings are such a stiff interference fit and hard to remove, could it be an idea to grind out a set of bearings with a loose fit, just to establish the shim thickness?

 

That's what I would look into if I had to do this on a regular basis.

Regards,

Waldi

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Hi Andreas,

Sorry for rhe slow response, I'm travelling for work (Deutschland:)) currently.

I thought about that too, but even if they are not, you can measure both and calculate the required adjustment (or shim) from that.

Just a thought.

Best regards,

Waldi

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Hi Andreas,

If the bearings are such a stiff interference fit and hard to remove, could it be an idea to grind out a set of bearings with a loose fit, just to establish the shim thickness?

 

 

 

 

 

 

You would have to grind out a set of new bearings. Good quality bearings are extremely expensive. Worn bearings would require thicker shims behind the pinion head bearing and give the wrong pre-load with the replacement bearings.

 

Colin

Edited by Colin Fairhurst
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