SeanF Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 What would one actually use to spray paint into the internals of the chassis? I have one of those paraffin spray gun things from Machine Mart but the wand nozzle is not flexible so can't imagine it will get very far in. Also have a schutz type gun for gravitex which has a flexible tube type wand but can this be used for paint? Maybe clean out an empty gravitex bottle and fill with bondarust? Sounds very messy! Aerosol cans with one of these? https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/338892?r=GS&gclid=Cj0KCQiA38jRBRCQARIsACEqIesr-PMzEbU671eSKHS_0fV_-_ZUXmdRImrk3yktd8Ieg6u4TKQ0CvgaAtS6EALw_wcB Will this work for paint? Just trying to not re-invent the wheel if someone's done it before. Many thanks, Sean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 Hi Sean, There are three parts to a basic spray system Nozzle Access pipes Pressure container For waxoyl and thicker things I use a a 3/8" nylon pipe. Stiff enough to push in but flexible. The nozzle I made from a piece of brass turned up to fit the pipe. Around the barrel of the nozzle I drilled lots of 0.5mm holes pointing in every direction. One hole in the front. Something similar can be done with a flat head nail stuck in the end. It may be possible to put the paint in the sprayer and get enough pressure to send it on its way. The method I use is to use the sprayer to push the paint/wax into the flexible tube and then use the big compressor to blast it out of the tube and through the nozzle. I use a parafin type air gun with the sprayer attached to the pick-up tube on the gun and the comp air in the usual place. The process is - Pressurise the sprayer Allow the paint/wax to flow into the pipe Pull trigger on the gun . Make sure the nozzle is inside the chassis frame before pulling the trigger. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SeanF Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 Thanks Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 At the risk of being a party pooper, I'm not sure its a good idea to spray internal box sections with any sort of paint covering because it is basically impossible to prepare the internal surfaces sufficiently to be able to guarantee any sort of proper adhesion. Surely that will then create the perfect environment for corrosion to occur under the paint film and that will also stop any wax/corrosion inhibitor from getting to the naked steel - all the good cavity treatments are full of rust inhibitors and must surely work better if they are not impeded by any poor paint covering getting in the way -- more than happy to be corrected, though. Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 (edited) ... and we're talking about cars from the 70s; more than 40 yrs old. Most have survived better than nearly every Porsche from that era. (These cars RUST!). We want to treat the TRs with stuff that will prolong their lifespan. For what? Another 40+ years? How old are you and how old are you when the car needs another rebuild. MennoThe TR6 in the shop I mentioned before was blasted, strengthened, blasted again and then powder coated.Menno Edited December 15, 2017 by Menno van Rij 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 Hi Rich, very good point. This opens a can of worms - will the wax spray stick to an oil contaminated surface.? You can only do your best. It is always worth re-doing every 2 or 3 years. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nickffc Posted December 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 ....unless we use a rust inhibiting paint as a base... then some sort of wax type coating.... oh bugger.... now confused.... bleeding people with good ideas....!! :) Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SeanF Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 That's it. I've decided. Not going to try to paint the insides. Just going to use cavity wax. Thanks Rich for clearing the fog! Sean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 (edited) Guess if you think about it. Around 3000 for a new chassis. Averaged over 40 years. That's 70 quid a year. How much paint sweat and tears coating the chassis every year can get for 70 quid I'll get my hat... Edited December 15, 2017 by Tim D. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nickffc Posted December 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 better get your coat aswell...... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 Roger Most corrosion inhibitors for injecting are wax/oil based so going onto an an oily surface would be surely less problematic than some sort of paint going onto the same surface but I would have thought it would stick in a fashion - may be sensible to repeat injecting affected areas on a regular basis. Nick A rust inhibiting paint will still presumably form a hard skin which which stop the injected/sprayed inhibitors from reaching the metal, and hence negate some of their effectivenss - the paint may have some rust inhibiting properties but I bet they wouldn't be as good as a proprietary rust injection fluid/wax. Just my opinion, but saves money and time with possibly a better outcome - no brainer in my mind cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ragtag Posted December 15, 2017 Report Share Posted December 15, 2017 Guess if you think about it. Around 3000 for a new chassis. Averaged over 40 years. That's 70 quid a year. Unfortunately it is now over £4000 for a new chassis Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted December 16, 2017 Report Share Posted December 16, 2017 Mike Sanders rust protection. Google that and dont look further. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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