Tim D. Posted December 12, 2017 Report Share Posted December 12, 2017 Yes.. as you can see on the blog, my upper "t-shirt" peice was rotten.. The lower one wasn't even there when I bought the car! Must have given the chassis some interesting dynamics.. mind you it made it around Spa! the same area got a lot of attention on the new CTM chassis although it has to contend with heat from the exhaust which I think makes wax treatments a lot less effective. CTM powder coat as standard, but I opted out after seeing how quickly powdercoated suspension components on my spitifre degraded.. Cheers tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted December 12, 2017 Report Share Posted December 12, 2017 Yes.. as you can see on the blog, my upper "t-shirt" peice was rotten.. The lower one wasn't even there when I bought the car! Must have given the chassis some interesting dynamics.. mind you it made it around Spa! the same area got a lot of attention on the new CTM chassis although it has to contend with heat from the exhaust which I think makes wax treatments a lot less effective. CTM powder coat as standard, but I opted out after seeing how quickly powdercoated suspension components on my spitifre degraded.. Cheers tim CTM supply in any finish you require, I didnt think powder coat was standard though. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ragtag Posted December 12, 2017 Report Share Posted December 12, 2017 CTM powder coat as standard, but I opted out after seeing how quickly powdercoated suspension components on my spitifre degraded.. Yes, my CTM chassis is almost ready and will be supplied having been blasted and etch primed. I'm thinking about spraying the finish coat with Rustoleum. Anyone got anything bad to share about this product? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
astontr6 Posted December 12, 2017 Report Share Posted December 12, 2017 Yes, my CTM chassis is almost ready and will be supplied having been blasted and etch primed. I'm thinking about spraying the finish coat with Rustoleum. Anyone got anything bad to share about this product? When I was an apprentice toolmaker over 50 years ago, as a test piece I had to make a foot scraper out of plate m/s in the form of a scotty dog. After completion I then painted it with Rustoleum paint. That paint lasted over 40 years with only the odd spot of rust and was outside in all weathers! Then it was bead blasted down to the bare metal, galvanized and powder coated, it will probably out last me. I know that their paints are used in the oil industry to protect steel work. Bruce. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ragtag Posted December 12, 2017 Report Share Posted December 12, 2017 Thanks Bruce, that sounds encouraging. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 Yes, CTM supply the chassis etch primed.. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 Hi Going back 20 to 40 years ago my company and the company I use to work for used a product called galvafroid to hand paint on our external security grills and barriers and being on the south coast it seemed to work very well. Cant really comment on how well it lasted or even if it would be any good for the chassis or even if the product now was as good or the same as it was then. Just brought back memories and I thought I would share. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nickffc Posted December 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 Blimy... this thread has got some legs..???? reallly great input and options..... what this forum is all about ???? Just the throw in a related subject: inner chassis protection. Been looking at dinatrol to coat the inside sections of the frame using the long application tube connected to the gun via a compressor. All the inaccessible sections I was going to drill 20mm access holes and then bung these up with rubber grommets for future applications. Now Im sure there are other products out there... but which is best? Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 (edited) Hi Nick, BEFORE you drill access holes make sure you have the blanks/bungs that fit. 20mm is quite big - consider 1/2, 5.8 The area around the T shirt has quite a few internal baffles - makes these area are also squirted.. As regards quality - it will the same replay as chassis paint - 100's. Dinitrol, Bilthamber, Astorlan, etc etc area very good and appear to stick. I used Waxoyl before I researched the products and am not too impressed. On my left sill it fell off the skin in a sheet. And had been re-applied a few times through its life Roger PS - are you painting the inside of the chassis box sections. BondaRustPrimer would like the bare metal and works well. Then wax. Edited December 13, 2017 by RogerH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nickffc Posted December 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 Hi Roger 20mm is not that bad IMO, looking at the other factory holes its not far off... Being a sparky by trade (not that i have done much recently!!!) 20mm bungs are a pleanty. Was looking at the other holes sizes but not sure if its a good idea to bung every hole apart from the ones located on the bottom for drainage. painting of the inside of the box section... how do you mean? Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 I used Galvanfroid on a Spitfire I rebuilt.. the think which impressed me was the weight of the can... It clearly had a lot of zinc in it! not sure how well it worked as I sold the car shortly afterwards. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 painting of the inside of the box section... how do you mean? Nick Hi Nick, if you are going to spray wax into the chassis box sections then have you considered spraying with paint first. It may give another layer of protection - or may be overkill. Regarding the Galvafroid - do follow the instructions. Allow time to dry and be careful what you paint it with. Another similar product is Zinga - very good but same care as above. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 (edited) Hi Nick, Before you start: clean, clean, clean. I used compressed air (with a 1m long 8mm dia or so plastic hose from one end and a vacuum cleaner with a lenght of 1/2 hose taped to the vac cleaner from the other side as a first step for each box section Then I removed some dirt inside the larger holes, the dirt did not enter very far. i used an old screwdriver and a 90 degr. bend hook I made myself. I inspected with a small torch, a simple endoscope would have been nice, they are cheap, but I felt the torch inspection was sufficient. I did not do much drilling, as I was able to reach most sections with an injection nozzle on a thin (5mm or so) long tube/hose. I used tectiel ML, the amber stuff in a white can, it comes with the nozzle ans tube. http://www.mercuriustools.nl/gereedschap/wp-content/uploads/Valvoline-20110-Tectyl-ML-holle-ruimte-was-in-600ml-spuitbus-met-slange.jpg I first tried with the compressor and a "tectiel can", but found this too much. The spraying can worked more controlled. I think I needed 3 or 4. Drilling: If you plan to drill additional holes, this is best done before painting the outside, and for me 8 mm dia was enough. I think I only drilled where the trailing arms are bolted, there are some hidden cavities there. Regards, Waldi Edited December 13, 2017 by Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 Here are the locations of most of the internal frame baffles. There are a few more in the fore and aft sections. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nickffc Posted December 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 Thanks Ed funny i was just looking around as i was sure that i'd seen somwhere that this had been measured out before.... or couse it was you... Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Will Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 Zinga really is an excellent product. But check out the data sheet on the Zinga website for preparation and application. For best performance the chassis needs to be grit blasted. It will not chip, like paint, and can be re-charged every few years after cleaning the surface. Wide industrial use and proven. No affiliation, having just used it on Land Rover underside components that have taken some abuse. Eric. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 Ed.. you put a load of holes in the part of the chassis to which the trainline arm attaches.. do you think that will compromise the strength? Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 Tim-- All the holes you see in the pic are from the factory. I did have to drill one small 5/16" hole on each side to reach an inaccessible cavity, but i cant see how it would materially affect strength. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 Hi Ed, Cool.. If triumph was happy so am I.. Interesting that the CTM replacement chassis that I have doesn't have them.. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 Tim-- You might be referring to the series of large holes on the rear side of the trailing arm frame member. Those holes aren't in the frame, but are lightening holes in my experimental rear camber adjustment arrangement. http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-35/TR6-35.html Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nickffc Posted December 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 Ed Which looks to me like a very good idea... very interseted to know the outcome Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted December 13, 2017 Report Share Posted December 13, 2017 Ahh! That makes sense. Looks like a nice piece of kit. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ragtag Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 painting of the inside of the box section... how do you mean? I think what Roger is suggesting is that if one can use a hose with a pin in the end to spray cavity wax, the same system could be employed to spray paint on the inside of the box sections as an added level of rust protection. Certainly that is what I intend doing. Years ago, I replaced the rear cross member on my Range Rover and did exactly that. It is as fresh inside now as it was when I did it (17 years ago). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nickffc Posted December 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 Yeah I thought so. Ive been searching for a spray gun that has this facility with a longish cavity hose or a add on for a spray gun, gravity or suction... I have both. Unless theres another way of getting and good coat of paint on the inside ? Nick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 14, 2017 Report Share Posted December 14, 2017 Hi Nick, if you do go around spraying the internals of the chassis etc be careful and wear all the PPE. You don;t want to get anything in your face or eyes. I can vouch that Waxoyl does keep your eyes rust free. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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