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Parts on ebay . . . . . alternator and OE foglamps . . . .


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and a pair of real rarities, OE foglamps . . . .

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-PAIR-OF-TRIUMPH-TR7-TR8-AUSTIN-ALLEGRO-ROVER-SD1-FRONT-FOG-LIGHTS-NOS-/192341468856

 

Usual disclaimers, I just spotted these browsing

 

Cheers

 

Alec

Alec, for those fog lights, I'm almost tempted to find an Allegro.........

:o:P :P :P :P

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  • 3 weeks later...

Information for TR7 owners.

The alternator on my TR4 failed recently. It was a Lucas LRA101, rated at 34 amps, as fitted to TR7s and fitted to 4VC in 1993. Fortunately, on the Sunday afternoon of an International Weekend many years ago, one of the suppliers was trying to lighten his load for the return home and was offering a brand new Unipart GXE2210 (same alternator) at a bargain £25. I fitted this on Sunday, but wanted to make sure that I had a spare on the shelf so that should another failure occur I didn't have to go hunting.

On Ebay I found ALT113 Lefthand alternator under item code 172388880931 at £49.90 delivered to a local Argos (Aylesbury). It was well protected in the packaging (important - it's heavy!) This is a brand new repro made by ATP Electronics, and is uprated to 50 amps. This alternator has a fan & pulley already fitted - the Unipart didn't, I had to transfer these from the dead unit.

In the box were diagrams showing how to convert from dynamo to alternator, and from a different type of alternator to this, plus details of the test and a graph of output against alternator speed. I was impressed.

The designation Lefthand might confuse some, but the vendor has clear shots to ensure that purchasers buy the correct version (Righthand also available). On the TR4, the alternator sits on the righthand side of the engine, but a Lefthand alternator is required. The position of the mounting bolt holes in relation to the adjuster bolt hole is the critical thing in determining the handing.

Ian Cornish

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Hi Ian,

regarding the 'handing' you are quite right/

TR4/4A use lefthand alts on the righthand side.

 

The adjuster on the 4/4A is on top. It should be underneath to give the correct handednessnocity.

 

So 4/4A adjuster on top uses a lefthand alt on the righthand side

 

Makes complete sense.

 

Roger

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Alec, for those fog lights, I'm almost tempted to find an Allegro.........

:o:P :P :P :P

John from memory the OEM foglight for the Allegro were mounted in a plastic housing that replaced the front air grills that sat just below the bumper, not like the ones in the listing so hold off buying that Allegro just yet ! having said that there is a quite tidy 3 door sitting in a breakers yard not far from me if your tempted !!!!!!

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I

On Ebay I found ALT113 Lefthand alternator under item code 172388880931 at £49.90 delivered to a local Argos (Aylesbury). It was well protected in the packaging (important - it's heavy!) This is a brand new repro made by ATP Electronics, and is uprated to 50 amps. This alternator has a fan & pulley already fitted - the Unipart didn't, I had to transfer these from the dead unit.

In the box were diagrams showing how to convert from dynamo to alternator, and from a different type of alternator to this, plus details of the test and a graph of output against alternator speed. I was impressed.

The designation Lefthand might confuse some, but the vendor has clear shots to ensure that purchasers buy the correct version (Righthand also available). On the TR4, the alternator sits on the righthand side of the engine, but a Lefthand alternator is required. The position of the mounting bolt holes in relation to the adjuster bolt hole is the critical thing in determining the handing.

Ian Cornish

Ian

Whats the benefit of converting dynamo to alternator ?

 

Would this be the same (the handing and the alternator) if I wanted to convert my 3a to alternator ?

(Its already thin belt and neg earth converted)

 

H

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Hamish - the advantages are a higher output for driving power-hungry accessories like an electric cooling fan at the same time as lights/wipers/heater etc, and decent output even at low engine revs so the battery is getting a proper charge all the time. If you don't do winter driving at night or don't have other big power drain then there is probably no real advantage. Yes the alternator and handing are the same.

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John from memory the OEM foglight for the Allegro were mounted in a plastic housing that replaced the front air grills that sat just below the bumper, not like the ones in the listing so hold off buying that Allegro just yet ! having said that there is a quite tidy 3 door sitting in a breakers yard not far from me if your tempted !!!!!!

There were some cracking ones at the NEC on Friday.

Have to confess though, we were giggling a bit, and got some harsh looks from others on the stand.......

Apologies to all Allagro owners! :ph34r:

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Hamish - RobH has listed the advantages and, of course, the TR2-TR4A use what is basically the same engine, so the generator is mounted in the same position.

With an alternator, once you have started the engine, you are very unlikely to see the ignition warning light glowing or a discharge on the ammeter as the alternator generates a lot more at low engine speed, and even modestly rated alternators produce 34 amps - about half as much again as a dynamo.

The Lucas LRA101 type alternator is slightly fatter than the dynamo fitted to TR2-TR4A, so might sit rather close to the inner wing on a sidescreen car, but there are many smaller alternators available nowadays.

I would advise conversion to narrow belt when fitting an alternator - the old, fat belt is fine for the low-revving Fergusons and Vanguards, but the narrow belt is so much easier to fit and fits better on the alternator's pulley.

Ian Cornish

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Thank Ian

 

My car already has thin belt conversion and neg earth.

 

I guess smaller physical size the better, alternator wise. Both exhaust heat and other physical restrictions.

 

My next job tho is to take my gearbox out to deal with an OD plate gasket leak.

Another learning exercise!!!!

H

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Hi Mike

 

Im using this chap as a guide

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8MBWMaGHLbGwDrrzbddevA

 

His series of videos on the A type OD are good.

Covers the bits I need to do.

Fingers crossed its only a gasket issue.

He has done 4pot engines as well.

 

The initial test will be getting the box out and lifted away from inside the car.

H

 

Sorry 7/8 Group for hijacking by a 3a????

Edited by Hamish
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Hamish - I forgot to mention heat shield which is essential to prevent the alternator being cooked by the heat from the exhaust. Even one of the most experienced men I know forgot that and cooked his first alternator! Then, as he had re-built my car on which Triumph had installed a shield in 1962 to protect the dynamo, he made a copy!

Ian Cornish

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Alan

Sounds like you are going to town on your car (manifold temp discussions) and as I did this season with less than 110bhp at the flywheel !! I dont think a couple of bhp between friends matters.

 

 

Ian I have a makeshift Ali dynamo heat shield already so if and when I do anything with the mystical thing of electrics Ill do some heat protection. But in a true heath Robinson style rather than alans very scientific route in another post !!

H

Edited by Hamish
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Hamish - if you could see the generator heat shield from 4VC, produced by the Triumph Comps Dept in 1962, you would realise that it is simply a piece of thin steel sheet, with a fixing to the foremost manifold stud, and curved gently downwards to pass between generator and exhaust manifold. I have added a fixing to the back end of the alternator's bottom rear mounting to steady it, and have attached a piece of soldering mat. It's so well hidden down there that do anything more fancy seems quite unnecessary to me!

Ian Cornish

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All,

 

Don’t forget that if you are going to replace the dynamo with an alternator it is a lot easier with a proper mounting kit (The Rimmer one is about £45).

 

Being lacking in funds I decided I’d make my own. After a couple of days fiddling about with bits of bent metal I went and bought a ready made set. You may only need the “Link - 142134 - Alternator Adjusting” and make your own bolts and spacers, but I was at the stage of feeling fed up with the whole DIY idea so forked out the money.

 

My reason was because I was making my own loom, and with the alternator there are a few less wires to worry about (Control box)

 

 

 

Charlie

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In TR2/3/3A/3B technical section , see post #7 in "Alternator" - I've pasted it here:

In Section J4 of the Technicalities CD you will find my article on Alternators. On page J25 (fig J4-1) there are pictures of Left and Right-hand alternators, which make it clear why a Lefthand is required on TR2-TR4A (it helps one's if the figure it turned upside down!).

On page J28 (figure J4-3) there's a drawing of the mounting bracket required for the rear end of the alternator.

The article details the changes required to electrical connections. However, for those who have purchased a Moss alternator kit, I would refer you to the article which James Christie and I published in TR Action 248 (March 2011) - if you can't find this, just PM me with your email address and I can supply it in MS Word.

Ian Cornish

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  • 2 weeks later...

Quick point - I recently replaced the alternator on my TR4 and found that the "wrong" sided ones were significantly cheaper that the "right" ones (I have no idea why, but that's what I found).

 

It is easy to change this by removing the three long bolts that hold the body together and turning one of the cast aluminium pieces through, I guess, 120 degrees (one bolt hole). I fully endorse a proper mounting kit - I actually replaced mine with the new alternator due to a crack in the adjuster.

 

Just FYI.

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