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SUMP GEARBOX & AXLE DRAIN PLUG KEY SPANNER


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I've often been asked about drain keys or spanners, many folks don't even know what one looks like . . . . . after all, they're not something you get in the average socket set, and very much a thing of the past.

 

Nevertheless, a damn useful bit of kit when you need one.

 

Here's an example of one on the 'bay . . . . nowt to do with me, I'm just trying to be helpful !

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-MELCO-DPW-3-SUMP-GEARBOX-AXLE-DRAIN-PLUG-KEY-SPANNER-/142539416782?epid=2038095214&hash=item213002e4ce:g:2UQAAOSwx6pYoGAT

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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Great advice Alec, thank you.

 

As an alternative, I've been using hex-socket plugs which take an Allen key, for example:

 

https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-22G2115

 

This type of plug is particularly useful for the gearbox filler, as there's a strengthening web in the casing just above the filler plug which makes access very tight with most conventional wrenches.

 

 

Nigel

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Although I have the correct tool, it's worth bearing in mind the suggestion that Tony Sheach and I included in the Basic Maintenance article, which was included as a pull-out in TR Action 273 (March 2014):

Removing tapered drain & filler plugs – special note

The drain/filler plug 114774, is found on sumps, gearboxes and back axles (but not all of them!). It is made of steel, with a square head and a tapered thread. Because of this taper, the plug can be difficult to undo if previously installed by a gorilla. If the corners of the square are in good condition, it may be removed with a ½” AF socket, but if the plug has been mistreated, you may find that reversing a 9/16” AF socket directly onto the ½” drive in your socket set then gives you a ½” square socket which is quite a good fit onto the head of the plug.

 

Ian Cornish

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I have a ring spanner which I picked up years ago at an auto jumble which does square nuts (8 point) for 1/2" and 7/16". No obvious make but made in England, part no. ABVBB 852. Also have some Britool 1/2" drive sockets for square nuts (8 point), part no. EQ500 for the 1/2" size, EQ625 for 5/8" etc. Hope this helps.

Cheers

Richard

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Prevention is better than cure - wrap the threads with a little PTFE tape - better seal so obviates need to use gorilla tight setting and reduces binding so easier to shift next time.

The downside is, because of the reduced friction, it is rather easy to overtighten the plug and crack the gearbox casing. Don't ask how I know... :(

 

Pete

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The multiple headed tool is okay as long as it's in good condition and well made.

 

I have seen mechanics use them to oblivion in the past, and depending on the quality of the tool and the casting of it, it is easy to start to round out internal squares, or round off square heads if the tool is not made well. Often the heads of the tool are too tapered and not a tight fit, poorly cast, and often of poor quality material.

 

Personally I would prefer to use a a tightly fitting piece of square mild steel bar or proper socket. As said on here, they only need to be nipped up with hardly any leverage.

 

Kevin

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  • 6 months later...

I've only just come across this thread. I obviously don't check too often. But I had problems with a very worn square headed plug off which ordinary spanners and the special drain-plug spanner slipped without effect. They couldn't grip on the vestiges of the square at it very base.

 

Then I got an 8 point, or double-square, socket Pushed on, it gripped firmly. The plug was unscrewed easily. It really did the job.

 

They come up on eBay occasionally, usually from US sellers, but can be bought new in the UK from the likes of SnapOn or UK tools

 

http://www.uktools.com/71634-inch-3834drive-point-26mm-long-double-square-soc-p-40286.html

 

My TR6, which I had for about 16 years, has gone, replaced by a Stag. So I still have a use for the double-square socket, or I shall have if and when the filler plugs in gearbox and differential can be replaced. They are the new version, with hexagonal holes and have seized tight while the hex hole has gone circular! The gorilla-like previous owner must have overdone it a lot.

 

Anthony

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Prevention is better than cure - wrap the threads with a little PTFE tape - better seal so obviates need to use gorilla tight setting and reduces binding so easier to shift next time.

 

I was taught never to use teflon tape on a part that touches engine internals. The chance that a piece breaks off and gets stuck someplace bad is too high. It's always pipe joint compound or some other "dispersible" material for me.

 

As we've brought this old thread back, I've been known to use a pipe wrench on a completely ruined drain plug. (Although he was American, we don't call them Stillson wrenches over here.)

ridgid-pipe-wrenches-31025-64_1000.jpg

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