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Is non-inflammable parts cleaner fluid any good?


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I'm tempted by this special offer from Machine Mart: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cw2d-bench-mounted-parts-washer/

 

But I read that it must be used with "non-inflammable parts cleaner fluid", and looking thus up, I find people saying such solvents are no good.

Anyone used them?

 

John

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John,

 

If use this https://www.bilthamber.com/surfex-hd. It is concentrated and dilutes to a large volume of cleaner and is effective. That cabinet looked a bit small for most parts. I find a brush and hand sprayer ex kitchen cleaner bottle works well

 

Alan

Edited by barkerwilliams
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Hi John

 

had the very same item, and bought the 'Proper' no flamable solvent.

 

The tray was really to small, and the solvent when left a few weeks went all fungussy, looked like 'Quatermass'

 

Chucked the lot away, small parts ex kitchen seive, parafin and stiff brush, large ex hand basin etc...

 

 

Save your dosh.

 

John.

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I also have that exact one, I use "Hyperclean" a water soluble cleaner. No problems after 4 years, just need to top up occasionaly.

I don't know if it is flammable when not diluted with water.

 

Bob.

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John, I've got the 10 gallon version of the same item which has served me well for over 25 yrs and I always used Jizer, then about 18 months ago switched to a 'non flammable' cleaner purely for the safety factor of being able to remove 10 gallons of flammable liquid from the workshop.- It clearly has some benefits but overall it's not as good as the traditional methods. A couple of the more obvious drawbacks (apart from the smell) include stripping the paint from the inside of the parts washer which then attached to the items being cleaned & contributed to the pump filter becoming blocked and worst of all eating any alloy parts that were being cleaned. You certainly couldn't leave a set of carbs in overnight!

I'm going back to Jizer......

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I bought one of those from Toolstation a few years back. Branded Sealey but the same thing. Jizer killed the pump in two hours. The second one lasted 20 minutes. The third didn't work at all (my first one back again?). Got my money back and returned to my 10L plastic can with the side cut out and a paint brush. Just treated myself to a new brush....... Looking out for an old stainless sink and draining board combo......

 

Nick

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I brush on Jizer then steam clean with hand held gadjet. Takes off a congealed mess of EP140+Molyslip. Haven't been scalded...yet.

Peter

Edited by Peter Cobbold
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Hmmmmm! Too small, loses its paint in flakes, grows mould, etc! I think I'll stick to a mixing bowl (don't tell 'er indoors) and just throwing the used stuff away. Thanks for all the advice!

 

John

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John,

 

I have used Frosts Marine cleaner for years with success:

 

http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-paint-coating-electroplating/automotive-paint/paint-prep-primer-pre-painting-preparation/cleaner-degreaser-por15-marine-clean-3-78-litres.html

 

Water based and it goes quite a long way when diluted in hot water. As good IMHO as paraffin and not as messy and can be reused.

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John,

 

I have had one of these for 6 or 7 years now, mostly for motorcycle parts, and like other folks here, the prescribed cleaning liquid was tossed out almost straight away. I have been using paraffin in it ever since. It works perfectly. The paraffin leaves a slightly oily finish on parts which leaves bare metal parts protected for a while. If I'm going on to paint the part, then I use brake cleaner as a degreaser...works perfectly.

 

Of course, Clarkes may have altered the construction of the pump during that time, but when I last cleaned the sludge out of the bottom it all looked fine. I do notice that the paraffin has discoloured the red paint....shame. Maybe that's why they say don't use flammable liquids. More likely they are concerned with fire. However, paraffin has a fairly high flash point, which can be as low as 37C but more likely higher than that, and auto ignition is much much higher, so reasonably safe. I wouldn't use petrol though :o

 

Usual disclaimers...

 

Cheers,

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Pukka commercial concentrated TFR, traffic film remover from your local motor factor, generally does a reasonable job with minimal risk - sometimes available in 5l but more usually 20l containers.

 

The retail market products, smaller bottles from the local motor accessory shops, in my experience are a waste of time for anything but windscreens . . . . just don't have the oomph of proper trade products.

 

Do be cautious with dilution factors though - the commercial products are STRONG undiluted, and WILL do you a nasty if you're careless !

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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