qim Posted September 11, 2017 Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 (edited) What could be done to engine block that has been rusting away for 30 years? Bearing in mind that the engine was not turned over more than 3 or 4 times a year and then just to go round the block twice, I am wondering what could have happened to the block during that time. I have cleaned up the waterways, as much as possible, but would like to see, and cure if needed, any rusty and faulty parts. The block was exchanged by Cox & Buckles in the 80s but after driving back to Portugal did not do much for some 25/30 years. What is there to be looked at, replaced, etc? I have a local garage that can do the job for a fair amount, but would like to know what is involved before I start. Any suggestions welcomed. EDIT The car is now running nicely, albeit with consumption not as low as I would like; and I think I am losing oil, possibly via the engine breather. Camilo Edited September 11, 2017 by qim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted September 11, 2017 Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 Hi Camilo ~ This is what a TR engine block looks like after many years of service. Can you spot the block drain hole? I had my block chemically cleaned when I rebuilt my engine. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 11, 2017 Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 We have used a 45 gallon drum of Molasses solution to successfully clean rusty blocks back to bare, chuck it in and leave for a couple of months and they come out bright bare steel. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted September 11, 2017 Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 Very good tip Stuart ~ Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted September 11, 2017 Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 Stuart educate me what is Molasses solution....or is that too obvious to be true? Cheers Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted September 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 (edited) Hi Stuart Nice to know and will keep it in mind, but now that I want to use the car as much as possible... two months is a long time. Besides, I want to make sure that the "insides" are as they should be, and the idea now is to learn what I might have to contend with, taking in consideration my Edit of the first post I learnt, to my surprise, that there are two types of rings: the obvious piston rings that stop oil from passing via the piston, but another mystery set that could account for possible loss of oil through the breather pipe. Could someone enlighten me on this, please? Edited September 11, 2017 by qim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 11, 2017 Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 Hi Camilo, to speed up the engine block de-rusting you could prepare something like Bilt Hamber DeOxC. Make a bath with plastic sheet and plonk the whole lot in. It would take about 24Hrs to do its work. The usual ring set is - 2 compression rings (top and next one down) and then an oil control ring. This oil control ring may be a three part item and needs to be assembled correctly. This ring gathers the oil off the bore wall and directs it through small holes in the piston groove back down towards the sump. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
classic225 Posted September 11, 2017 Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 Camillo, I dipped my engine block in a chemical tank that was used for cleaning radiators. 24 hours later I had a clean rust free engine block. Cheap and fast Yves Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted September 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 So, if the block comes off, it seems that the advice is to chemically clean it before doing anything else- And what else if there is nothing terminally wrong? Rings? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted September 11, 2017 Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 Don't forget the block has removable liners Qim, and these need removing before the block is chemically cleaned and then reset into position upon new Figure of 8 gaskets, check out the threads called" Liner heights" to see what needs doing, pay LOTS of attention to the liner protrusion from the top of the block. Also chemical cleaning is not to good on the camshaft bearings in the block, and so a new set of them may need refitting also. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted September 11, 2017 Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 Hi Camilo ~ When I had my block chemically cleaned it was then fitted with new camshaft bearings. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted September 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2017 What would you expect of a reconditioned engine (by Cox&Buckles) that was left virtually unused for a good 20/25 years? Since getting it back on the road, I had the engine flushed with the side tap opened; and had the rear "hole" unplugged when the engine was taken out during the chassis sandblast and painting, and flushed again. Do you expect a lot of rust left in the block and do you think it is affecting the running of the car in any way? As I said before, I am quite happy with the way it is running, although I would like to get the consumption down. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted September 12, 2017 Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 If it ain't broke don't fix it. How many miles are you going to do each year. Fuel consumption probably isn't important and if it's running well, apart from maybe giving the radiator and cooling system a good flush on a regular basis, leave it alone until you have an overheating problem. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted September 12, 2017 Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 (edited) +1 Iain PS If you want to get the insides clean then this stuff is very good. http://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr5450/name/thoro-flush-454grams Yes its available elswhere. Edited September 12, 2017 by iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted September 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 (edited) Hi Ian The cooling system is up to scratch other than not knowing what the passages in the block are like- I did a 500km run in 36º in the shade (well over 40º in the sun) and did not loose a drop of water- Fuel consumption is important to me, if for no other reason to get the car to behave like it did in the past. I am also curious and would like to make sure all's well inside the block. including making sure that Cox&Buckles did put a 2200cc engine n the xchange What would you expect a newly reconditioned engine to look like if left alone for over 20 years, other than 3/4 times a year getting to force it round the block twice or so? A for mileage, I expect <I will be doing a few thousand (5k?) if all goes well with the car and me! Edited September 12, 2017 by qim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Red 6 Posted September 17, 2017 Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 I had my block soda blasted to remove all the rust and associated growths. The chap at holly hill farm on the ridgeway in enfield did an excellent job. It was then chemically cleaned in one of those high temperature washing machines that engineering firms use before being checked and decked prior to reassembly (well after a dry build to be perfectly accurate). I am going to post pictures of before and after as it really explains and shows why our engines overheat. I have kept all the rust and sediment as a warning to others. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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