Jump to content

Engine block cleaning, restoring


Recommended Posts

What could be done to engine block that has been rusting away for 30 years?


Bearing in mind that the engine was not turned over more than 3 or 4 times a year and then just to go round the block twice, I am wondering what could have happened to the block during that time. I have cleaned up the waterways, as much as possible, but would like to see, and cure if needed, any rusty and faulty parts.


The block was exchanged by Cox & Buckles in the 80s but after driving back to Portugal did not do much for some 25/30 years.


What is there to be looked at, replaced, etc? I have a local garage that can do the job for a fair amount, but would like to know what is involved before I start.


Any suggestions welcomed.



EDIT


The car is now running nicely, albeit with consumption not as low as I would like; and I think I am losing oil, possibly via the engine breather.


Camilo

Edited by qim
Link to post
Share on other sites

We have used a 45 gallon drum of Molasses solution to successfully clean rusty blocks back to bare, chuck it in and leave for a couple of months and they come out bright bare steel.

Stuart.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Stuart

 

Nice to know and will keep it in mind, but now that I want to use the car as much as possible... two months is a long time. Besides, I want to make sure that the "insides" are as they should be, and the idea now is to learn what I might have to contend with, taking in consideration my Edit of the first post

 

I learnt, to my surprise, that there are two types of rings: the obvious piston rings that stop oil from passing via the piston, but another mystery set that could account for possible loss of oil through the breather pipe. Could someone enlighten me on this, please?

Edited by qim
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Camilo,

to speed up the engine block de-rusting you could prepare something like Bilt Hamber DeOxC.

Make a bath with plastic sheet and plonk the whole lot in. It would take about 24Hrs to do its work.

 

The usual ring set is - 2 compression rings (top and next one down) and then an oil control ring.

This oil control ring may be a three part item and needs to be assembled correctly.

This ring gathers the oil off the bore wall and directs it through small holes in the piston groove back down towards the sump.

 

Roger

Link to post
Share on other sites

Camillo,

I dipped my engine block in a chemical tank that was used for cleaning radiators. 24 hours later I had a clean rust free engine block. Cheap and fast

Yves

Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't forget the block has removable liners Qim, and these need removing before the block is chemically cleaned and then reset into position upon new Figure of 8 gaskets, check out the threads called" Liner heights" to see what needs doing, pay LOTS of attention to the liner protrusion from the top of the block.

Also chemical cleaning is not to good on the camshaft bearings in the block, and so a new set of them may need refitting also.

 

Mick Richards

Link to post
Share on other sites

What would you expect of a reconditioned engine (by Cox&Buckles) that was left virtually unused for a good 20/25 years? Since getting it back on the road, I had the engine flushed with the side tap opened; and had the rear "hole" unplugged when the engine was taken out during the chassis sandblast and painting, and flushed again.

 

Do you expect a lot of rust left in the block and do you think it is affecting the running of the car in any way? As I said before, I am quite happy with the way it is running, although I would like to get the consumption down.

Link to post
Share on other sites

If it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

How many miles are you going to do each year. Fuel consumption probably isn't important and if it's running well, apart from maybe giving the radiator and cooling system a good flush on a regular basis, leave it alone until you have an overheating problem.

 

Rgds Ian

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ian

 

The cooling system is up to scratch other than not knowing what the passages in the block are like- I did a 500km run in 36º in the shade (well over 40º in the sun) and did not loose a drop of water-

 

Fuel consumption is important to me, if for no other reason to get the car to behave like it did in the past. I am also curious and would like to make sure all's well inside the block. including making sure that Cox&Buckles did put a 2200cc engine n the xchange

 

What would you expect a newly reconditioned engine to look like if left alone for over 20 years, other than 3/4 times a year getting to force it round the block twice or so?

 

A for mileage, I expect <I will be doing a few thousand (5k?) if all goes well with the car and me!

Edited by qim
Link to post
Share on other sites

I had my block soda blasted to remove all the rust and associated growths. The chap at holly hill farm on the ridgeway in enfield did an excellent job.

 

It was then chemically cleaned in one of those high temperature washing machines that engineering firms use before being checked and decked prior to reassembly (well after a dry build to be perfectly accurate).

 

I am going to post pictures of before and after as it really explains and shows why our engines overheat. I have kept all the rust and sediment as a warning to others.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.