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Painting with aerosols


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After my disaster stripping the paint off the rear deck I decided to do it myself. Think I have prepared it pretty well, etch primer on the bare metal areas, then filler primer. used 240 wet and dry on the primer and just put first coat of pillar box red on from an aerosol. Has anyone had really good results with aerosols? I find it very difficult as the spray density is so low. If I go fast it does not create a thick enough coat for it to cover. If I go slow and close it spatters and leaves blobs. Any clues from the experts out there or is it a case of many coats with rubbing down in between?

 

Cheers

 

Simon

 

 

. .

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SHAKE, SHAKE, SHAKE. Come back next day and SHAKE again. I count the shakes and stop at 300.

 

Don't get the nozzle too close. Or too far away. This is critical and comes with practice. 8-10 inches.

 

Lots of thin coats are easier than a few thick ones.

 

No need to rub down between coats. Just let it tack off a bit and go again.

 

Aerosol nozzles vary a lot. Some work well, can be easily cleaned if they block. Others are poor.

 

Smallish horizontal areas are likely to work. Biggish vertical areas less so.

 

Watch the YouTube videos. There are many.

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Yes, paint from aerosols is thin.

 

What colour primer are you using? Should be light grey, I think.

 

White will work but if you are using reddish primer, it will take

forever to build up the colour.

You would be amazed at the difference.

 

AlanR

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The etch primer was grey, the filler primer, or build primer as it says on the can id a very light beige and created quite a rough surface but smoothed out nicely with wet and dry.

I think I will give it a light wet and dry tomorrow to get the blobs out and try again. I shook only about 100, so there is the first error!

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I've painted a roof with rattle cans - you need more than you expect!

I was p!eased with the result, by careful preparation of the primer, couple of coats, rub down between and before top coat. Biggest deficiency is that the result is not as hard as a shop-done, oven baked finish. More prone to damage, effect of bird strikes (droppings!), and don't use polish vigorously as it'll come back off again!

John

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I am having my bonnet and boot repainted and asked the painter for prep suggestions, he recommended 800 paper to get the surface smooth enough to repaint,

 

but the surface was flat and in gloss.

 

I have never had much luck with aerosols halfway through they have a mind of their own pause for breath and start spluttering, but good luck with the job.

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After each light coat, invert the can and spray until just gas comes. Wipe nozzle with solvent.

This helps prevent nozzle from blocking.

 

100 shakes is OK if you have already given it a really good shaking. Shaking costs nothing and is another thing that helps prevent blocked nozzles.

 

Ideally your last coat is heavier and this allows "settling" and a better finish. But runs are always a problem.

Edited by AlanT
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OK chaps, there's a lot of work doing this, but just for you:

 

36721896470_ecacaa3bb8_b.jpg

 

Nozzles of this type are VASTLY superior. If it were not for these I would not be getting the blank-wrinkle finish on the wiper-motors.

 

These can be completely dismantled, the brass operating rod comes out, the yellow jet comes out. Each part can easily be cleaned and put back.

 

They don't block often.

They are much more controllable, you can spray "half-power"

They don't dribble.

 

I won't now willingly buy aerosols with ordinary nozzles.

 

I must try one of these out instead of an "ordinary" one. I don't know if they fit.

Edited by AlanT
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Your eulogy for this nozzle is most valuable!

May I add some details?

 

It's a "Danvern" nozzle, AKA (Also Known in America) as an "EZ touch" nozzle.

They are fitted to aerosols supplied by franchise holders who can do Holts Custom Filled paints (google for your local)

"Dupli-Color" paints also have this nozzle.

 

But I can't find anyone that sells the nozzles 'loose'.

And beware! In America, there is another "E-Z" spray nozzle, 'for coolants' (??) that is nothing like this.

 

Do you know, Alan, if the Danvern can be substituted for an ordinary nozzle on an ordinary paint can - those just pull off, leaving a rubber seal that it can be pushed back into. So maybe the Danvern?

John

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And to add that finishing touch to shiny paint, to remind us of our TR's appearance in its heyday:

http://dominicwilcox.com/portfolio/anti-theft-carbike-device/

 

Peter

Edited by Peter Cobbold
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Practicing, not perfect, but getting better. Lightly rubbed down yesterday's first top coat with 400 grade to get rid of the spatters and blobs. Put on a slightly thicker second coat after 400 shakes of the can. No blobs and it went on quite well with a regular spray pattern. Think I will do the same tomorrow and call it a day. Then I am told to flat it with 1200 grade and then polishing compound, Is that correct? If so what polishing compound is suggested?

 

Cheers

 

Simon

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A day or so ago had a chat to an MGA owner whose paint job was dazzling, even through the sunnies. Assumed it was two pack.

However he said it was acrylic but he had put seven coats on with plenty of time between coats and waited ages before polishing the top coat.

In my ignorance when I did mine(acrylic for lung safety) I assumed it was like house painting and just put two coats on. Mine doesn't shine.

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Hi LJ,

your paint may not shine for various reasons. The thickness of the paint may be at the bottom of the list.

 

I had some 2K aerosols mixed for me and nothing would make it shine. It was as if the shop had left the shine out.

 

Roger

I also had the experience of, when I ran out of paint about halfway through, learning from the paint man that for the top coat, you used a different thinner to the one used with the primer.

The last batch of paint which I used to touch up a few spots was a slightly lighter shade compared to the earlier batches (sigh).

Edited by littlejim
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I am just using the bog standard 400ml cans from Moss. After 3 coats with rubbing down between coats it has a brilliant shine. In 2 minds whether to do another. Guess I will just have to stop putting petrol in the car to protect the paint.

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Smoothrite, two coats, brushed, one day. Done.

It will keep the rust at bay until petrol is NLA.

Is it shiny - no. But as I can only see a few square inches when driving, no matter.

Peter

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Cellulose when thoroughly dried through will resist petrol enough to wipe it off without harm. Back in the 40`s and 50`s Chauffeurs of black limos used to give them a quick polish up with petrol whilst waiting for passengers but most back then were painted in enamel and it was proper petrol too.

Stuart.

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