Could somebody help on missing pipes on US Import

[AarhusTr6]

Hi

 

Please see attched photo.

 

I have annoted in the picture my questions.

 

Missing 1. I see a complete pipe is missing here, I have drawn it in from what I can find on the net, what is it called and what does it do?

 

Missing 2. Looking at an old picture, this seems to be a complete array of tubes that prev owner has taken away.

 

Missing 3. Prev owner bunged with a screw! What is it and where does it go?

 

I thank you so much for the help!

 

Rich

 

 

[PaulAA]

Rich

 

There will be others along shortly, who can offer considerably more insight than me, particularly the size/thread of the blanking caps.

 

The kit you are concerned about is the EGR, part of the later emission control installation. Only necessary if you want to be period correct. You can safely remove it all.

 

Your Missing 1 is a rigid connection to the manifold. Cap the hole in the manifold.

 

Missing 2 is a return pipe to the rocker cover relief pipe - the junction in the main oil return pipe has been removed already

 

Missing 3 is a vacuum connection to the carbon cannister. You can remove the intermediate double take-off altogether and connect the brake servo directly to the vacuum take-off on the manifold.

 

When you removed the domed EGR itself, you will need to blank off the hole in the head.

 

Tidied version looks like this:

 

 

Paul

Edited September 8, 2017 by PaulAA

[AarhusTr6]

Hi Paul

 

So here the plan. Car is 70, registered 71 but with a later engine (74 maybe?) but I'd like where possible to bring it as close to a 70 as possible.

 

So you suggest

 

1. remove complete the EGR complete, put a nice blanking plug at ends where EGR fits in and where the solid pipe would go

2. where I have 'missing 3' and would prefer not to have an old screw, is there a nice plug I can use?

 

And any suggestion on the blanking plugs anybody?

Edited September 8, 2017 by AarhusTr6

[PaulAA]

where I have 'missing 3' and would prefer not to have an old screw, is there a nice plug I can use?

 

 

Better solution is to remove the intermediate outlet and use part no. ADU1402 to connect the servo vacuum pipe to the manifold.

[AarhusTr6]

Cheers Paul

 

Where did you get the blanking plugs from?

[PaulAA]

Hi Rich

 

The EGR shaft plug came with the re-worked head I bought a couple of years ago, but the manifold plug I bought separately, from Rimmers if I remember correctly.

 

You will need a 3/4-16 to plug the EGR shaft hole in the head and a 1/2" NPT plug for the manifold.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

Edit: remember to blank off the top inlet in the carbon cannister, where the feed from the banjo on the vacuum would have gone. Of all the emissions kit, you would be best off leaving the carbon cannister in place - the fuel filler cap is unventilated on later US cars and the expansion pipe is fed forward to operate through the carbon cannister.

Edited September 8, 2017 by PaulAA

[YankeeTR5]

Hi Paul,

 

You seem to be going a bit in circles here. From your earlier posts on the subject, the links to finding the parts to bring it back to factory and the function of said parts are all in this thread.

 

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/62737-carbon-filter-leave-it/

 

More problems result from people pulling off various parts of the smog system than most anything. Most in the states have found returning things to the way the factory shipped it results in better quality running. It doesn't drain power from the motor (most is fumes capture and recirculation), so very little to gain and lots to lose, especially in terms of idle quality and running on. Just sayin.

 

btw - there is no "here's what everyone does" when it comes to removing smog. To each their own path it seems.

 

All the best....Dan

[PaulAA]

Hi Dan

 

You've lost me a bit - why am I going round in circles?

 

Paul

[YankeeTR5]

Sorry Paul, I meant to type in Rich, as he started the earlier thread (in my reference) and is now seemingly raising the same issue. Anyway, no harm meant to either you or Rich.

[AarhusTr6]

Hi

 

Always going in circles me! I basically am open to advice on removing it or restoring the emission system but also with the aim of putting the car back to 1970 as possible - not forgetting of course having a car that runs well.

[AarhusTr6]

Hi

 

I think I will go with removing the plumbing and use blanking where the EGR hole is and also for inlet manifold.

 

There is a long-long discussion on the US forum on this, seems the camp is divided on +/- of removal.

[Rex Wyer]

Hi Paul, I have a 75 TR6 where I have taken off all the EGR emmissions stuff and the carbon canister, from your comments in #6 I will therefore need to blank off the expansion pipe which comes out of the top of the tank and fit a ventilated filler cap then.

 

Your comments would be appreciated

 

Rex

[AarhusTr6]

Decided to remove the EGR etc and put in box.

 

Paul kindly said I need:

 

You will need a 3/4-16 to plug the EGR shaft hole in the head and a 1/2" NPT plug for the manifold.

 

Anybody know where I can get these? Been googling ages and getting blind . . so only if anyone has bought them before . .

 

Thanks

[dingle]

I doubt if you will find a plug for the 3/4"-16 hole as it is not a pipe thread. Just get a 3/4"-16 x1" (or shorter)bolt that is threaded to the shoulder (also called a cap screw). Use a fiber washer under the head and sealer on the threads. The 1/2" NPT pipe plug should be easily available.

I also notice that the vac. fitting on the top of the rear carb (behind the damper cap) is un-plugged. It is used to connect a tube to a flame trap that goes to the EGR valve and would cause a vac. leak if not plugged.

The Roadster Factory (TRF) has the best catalog online for showing the emission stuff.

Berry

[PaulAA]

Rich

 

For the 3/4"-16, try this:

http://www.hotmeltparts.eu/en/hotmelt/hydraulic-fittings/group259.aspx

Sixth item down.

 

Paul

[PaulAA]

Hi Paul, I have a 75 TR6 where I have taken off all the EGR emmissions stuff and the carbon canister, from your comments in #6 I will therefore need to blank off the expansion pipe which comes out of the top of the tank and fit a ventilated filler cap then.

 

Your comments would be appreciated

 

Rex

 

Hi Rex

 

There are undoubtedly wiser people than me to advise you, but the emission control-era US cars had a sealed filler cap and expansion was channelled to breathe through the carbon cannister. If you remove the cannister altogether, you will need to leave the pipe uncapped, so that the tank has can accommodate expansion/contraction. Alternatively, you could change the filler cap to a non-sealed UK version or, as a further alternative, you could fit a small motorbike in-line carbon cannister, concealed on the chassis under the body. When I actually get around to replacing the original cannister (to make way for a direct air feed for the carbs), this will be my line of approach.

 

Paul

[Rex Wyer]

Hi Paul, Thanks for the reply. Thats very helpful and gives me a couple of options as to how to approach it.

 

 

Rex

[poolboy]

The valve cover is vented to the "Evacuation Port" (nipples) on the ZS carbs....those nipples provide the vacuum necessary to relieve crankcase pressure AND according to the original plumbing those nipples also suck on the carbon canister, which is basically a receptacle for fuel tank vapors..

From 73 thru 76, there was an Anti Run-on Valve which when open upon engine shut down, allowed vacuum from the intake manifold "MISSING 3" to withdraw vapors from the carbon canister and restore atmospheric pressure to the carbs' float chamber...that's the "Anti Run-on" feature.

None of that has any relation to the EGR valve or it's function though.

Edited September 13, 2017 by poolboy

[Sapphire72]

This is the Emissions plumbing on my '72.

 

Both carbs draw vapor from the valve cover, as well as raw fuel vapor from the carbon cannister. And burn it.

 

The vacuum line to the bottom of the rear carb is attached to the distributor retard module.

 

The large vacuum hose on the intake manifold is connected to the brake booster.

 

 

(Factory issued Zenith-Stromberg Carburetors were rebuilt in 2016 by the Zen Carb-Meister- poolboy.)

Edited September 13, 2017 by Sapphire72

[Redderd]

I used a standard plumbers threaded hex brass blank and ptfe tape to blank the inlet manifold of the EGR and bought a long bolt with the correct thread for the cylinder head. Cut the hex head off at a suitable heght and filed a square on the end instead and used a spanner on the newly filed square end to wind the thread into the head.

Edited October 9, 2017 by Redderd

[RogerH]

Hi Redderd,

the item you made is available - black Iron plug https://www.plumbingworld.co.uk/black-iron-plug-3-8-male.html

 

Nothing wrong in making your own though.

 

Roger