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Bringing a TR4A out of Long-term storage


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All - new user and am looking for some advice.

 

I found out that a neighbor of mine has a TR4A that he bought in 1969 - someone else had registered it for 6 months before he got it but it had very few miles on it. He's the second owner - for 45+ years. He would love to get it running and give it to his daughter. He drove the car into his barn in 1990 and it's been there ever since.

 

Not knowing what to expect I had a look at it over the weekend. It's a really solid (No rust anywhere), original paint, low miles, well maintained (at least until it was parked up) TR4A. Interior is dusty but will clean up well, no cracks in the dash. Chrome only slightly pitted - might clean up fine. The only thing I could find really wrong is the plastic in the drop top has gone foggy. Given that it looked in good knick we decided to see if we can get it running. Engine turns by hand.

 

I have started the basics - new oil (it measured full, drained the old, not sludgy at all, no metal shavings); drained the rad (rusty but again not as bad as expected. slightly low though. Will drain and flush again once I get it running and thermostat opens); disconnected fuel line and tried to drain out the old petrol ( a bit of fuel trickled out of the line but not much. Concerned about rust in the tank. No electrics so difficult to tell if there's any old fuel in the tank by gauge- nothing by the "broom handle dip stick" test. Will install an inline filter ahead of carbs regardless. Sediment trap was nasty but is now clean); New battery is on the way, new plugs, points/condenser. Belts all look as if they are new. New oil in the SUcarbs - dashpots were stuck but now move cleanly, float valves all fine - bone dry but all looks ok. I didn't remove the carbs but gave them a healthy dose of carb cleaner. New Air Filters. All hoses look good (water and vaccum).

Question for the group - Any other suggestions/requirements before I try and turn it over? Not familiar with this engine and hoping this is where I could find out lessons others have learned the hard way! Any seals/gaskets that have a habit of drying out, for example? All suggestions appreciated.

 

If that works we'll see if we can get it moving. I'll post photos if the owner is OK with it. Scott

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Rubber does not like storage, so even if the hoses and belts look OK, plan to replace them all. In fact everything rubber, inc. Flexible brake lines, and probably the seals in all the cylinders, master and slave brake and clutch. Unless a 4 has a cable clutch, I have no idea!

John

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Sound like you've covered most of it.

When battery arrives, pull out plugs, pour a little oil in each pot, & spin over on the starter till oil pressure comes up . (you did fit a new filter ?) Then after checking ign timing, check fuel is getting to the carbs by priming the pump with a pipe pulled off (the pump valves can get stuck open or closed ) if OK check fuel is filling up the float chambers, but not over filling, you may have to lift the chamber tops to check this.

Then replace plugs & give it a go.

Expect a lot of smoke for a few minutes, but it should clear.

 

Good luck.

 

Bob.

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I'd remove the plugs and give a squirt or two of oil into each cylinder a few days (or weeks) ahead of starting the car. The rings might have tightened up and it wouldn't hurt to have the cylinder walls wet with oil as the engine is turned over.

 

Things like fuel lines and fuel pump diaphragms will need to be upgraded to be compatible with ethanol-containing fuels, but for getting the vehicle running there shouldn't be a problem with what's there now.

 

I'd be ready to quickly disconnect a fresh battery depending on what happens behind the dash when it's hooked up. There are some always-hot circuits there and if you see any smoke, kill the juice immediately and investigate.

 

Renewing all the brakes and hydraulics would definitely be on my list.

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I would remove the thermostat before running it, if it stuck shut and the temp gauge is u/s it could get very hot. Get it running and then renew all the rubbers

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I'd right away start with the most basic inexpensive safety and reliability upgrades the car will have to go through sooner or later i.e. any form of electronic ignition; spin-on oil filter, quick disconnect battery terminal and...ditch the PCV valve.

Edited by Geko
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All - thanks for the sensible advice. He's not a big spender so we're trying to keep the costs down until we see what we are up against. I sent the owner out a shopping list that included an oil filter, but now that I had a look I wonder if I may need to get it online somewhere special?

 

Noted on all the rubbers, and I like the idea of a quick disconnect when I hook up the new battery. Have put a bit of oil in the cylinders as suggested. Hadn't thought of that but can see the logic. Also like the idea of checking the thermostat but don't want to add a gasket to the list at this point. Yes, I know that sounds a little pound-foolish but will see how we go if I can get it started.

 

If we get it running then brakes are first on my list. Will post an update. Thanks. Good to know I'm on the right track.

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Welcome to the forum and good luck with the car!

 

The good news is that service items for the TRs are cheap amd readily available, and lots of help and advice available here too!

 

Whereabouts are you?

And can we see some pictures please, we like pictures!

 

Steve

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Also like the idea of checking the thermostat but don't want to add a gasket to the list at this point. Yes, I know that sounds a little pound-foolish but will see how we go if I can get it started.

After 27 years storage the likelihood of the thermostat being stuck closed is high. Gasket set is inexpensive or buy gasket paper and make your own. Usual dealers like Moss-europe , Rimmerbros and TR-Shop are your first ports of call. Get a workshop manual too.

Edited by Geko
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All - Had a bit of fun today.

replaced thermostat (stuck bolt but resolved eventually), Tires held air, so rolled it out into the sunlight.

 

new oil (while I knew the original oil filter canister was tricky, I didn't expect it to be that tricky. Which seal do you choose?, how do you center the canister while thightening beneath the car?, how tight is required to hold the seal - certainly not the rule of finger tight then back off 1/4 turn! first two attempts leaked terribly. We'll see about the third )

 

Flushed engine, new coolant, new battery (no smoking wires, most things work)

 

new plugs, points, condenser, filters.

 

Question 1 - the fan belt cannot be removed without either disconnecting the fan from the pulley or disconnecting the front "stabiliser cross member"? I couldn't get enough room to get the old one out, new one on? Cross member bolts too rusty to attempt unless someone tells me that's the only way. The old one looked very good so just left it on.

 

Did is start? no. Turned over strongly, and sparking (tested with my timing light). But Could not get fuel to the pump. Previously I disconnected the fuel line and only a bit trickled out. Gauge read empty so I assumed it was empty. put in 20L of new fuel - gauge still reads empty (note to self, replace fuel float unit). But still no petrol up front. Read the forums and several suggested pressurising the tank. I did the opposite, hooked up a compressor to the fuel line just before the pump. It took 25 psi and I still didn't hear bubbles in the tank. Short of replacing the fuel line, any ideas?

 

I did get photos today, will try and post. Thanks all for your help so far. (ps, what's the right protocol for this forum... keep talking about fuel lines in this thread or start a new one on Fuel lines?!?)

 

Scott

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The normal procedure for replacing the fan belt involves loosening the engine mounts and lifting the engine slightly.

The fuel gauge fault is likely electrical - get it started first before you worry about that.

As for the fuel line, you might try poking through it with a length of MIG welding wire or similar. Pity you put so much fuel in, because my next suggestion is to remove the flexible part of the fuel line just above the drive shaft on the LH side, so you can tell if the outlet of the tank is blocked or if it's the fuel line. I think I'd want to replace the steel fuel pipe anyway, if it's blocked you'll struggle to get it completely clear.

 

Does it have the original oil filter or a spin-on type?

 

Personally, I wouldn't have bothered with the thermostat until I had the engine running, but too late now!

 

Pete

 

Pete

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Are you getting fuel to the carbs? Prime the fuel pump by pulling the lever on the pump up and down until resistance is felt. But I suggest you remove glass filter bowl and clean first. Unfortunately after all these years the fuel pipes are probably crudded up and any rubber ones collapsed. If you disconnect the metal fuel pipe from the bottom of the tank be careful spares are not readily available, although you can always have one fabricated. If you have not already done it, remove the lids from the carb float chambers, remove the crap and debris from inside and then fill chambers with fresh fuel. Then try starting, the fuel in the float chambers should let n run for about 20 seconds or so. Take the air filters off and spray easy start straight into the air intakes. If the rest of the systems are good it will fire.

Exciting stuff, keep us posted.

 

Simon

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All - not much time to work this weekend but did pull the fuel line (clogged as suspected) and got a good flow coming out of the tank (saved about 3/4 of the fuel I had put in. Question.... is there a screen at the bottom of the tank that might be clogged? I've got a "good" flow coming out, but not having experience on what the proper flow should be I'm unsure whether there's anything else impeding flow. e.g. Can I do something simple like pour in some more fuel and measure how many liters come out in a minute? Just a thought.

New Fuel line next weekend.

struggling to upload the photos?!?

 

Scott

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Looking good considering. Shame the single foglamp is now illegal as any additional lamps must now be in pairs

Stuart.

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Keep in mind Scott for when it's ready for going back on the road, you have probably got (can I say got?) Tyres that might be over 30yr old.

 

Looks good though.

 

Dave

Edited by nowtelse2do
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is there a screen at the bottom of the tank that might be clogged?

No. Is there any sign of any slosh sealant in the tank? If so it's possible that some has come away and partially blocked the outlet.

Try poking a piece of thin wire from the pipe into the tank.

Was the fuel you managed to save reasonably clean, i.e. free from rust particles?

 

Pete

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"Was the fuel you managed to save reasonably clean, i.e. free from rust particles?"

 

yes, it was. I think the tank is in reasonable shape. I did put an visible inline filter between the pump and the carbs though as a precaution.

 

New pipe goes in this weekend. Fingers crossed.

 

Will keep it under 60 until I get new tires on it. ;)

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30 year old tyres . . . . . never mind the insurance issue, that's a death trap waiting to kill you, and even worse take out some other poor unsuspecting innocent . . . . .

 

Don't even think about driving anywhere on them, not even to the tyre workshop . . . . . remove wheels and take them down for new tyres.

 

I've seen only recently the result of a similar exercise . . . . . 5 year rebuild trashed, as in written-off, when a 20 year old tyre let go after just 3 miles at no more than 30mph, en route for new tyres and MoT test.

 

That's what happens with tyres that have stood stationary for years.

 

In this instance, no insurance payout, unroadworthy vehicle, end of discussion. £40K loss and the policy did not allow retention of Cat B salvage.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

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I should have added that things could have been worse . . . . . the third party vehicle that our hero bounced off and wrote off was driven by a chap with the decency to admit that he was driving at a little over the speed limit.

 

As a result the insurers settled 'knock for knock' rather than our hero being saddled with the other chap's £30K write-off in addition to his own classic loss.

 

Meanwhile the bobbies considered the situation and concluded that prosecution would achieve nothing but add insult to injury, and declined to press any charges regarding the tyres and accident. A West Country spirit I reckon, rather than the national norm !

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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I often think our friends in the UK are a little OTT for MOTs and such on antique cars. My American ungoverernable streak, I guess. But where tyres are concerned, I'm with Alec. Way too much riding on tyres (pun intended) to take chances with decades-old rubber.

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