'58 TR3a electrical problem - HELP!

[Hal]

Hi:

 

I have a '58 TR3a that I have not been using very much. This morning I went out this morning and there was no electrical power - none. There are no lights, no horns (they were not working very well anyway), no power to the starter. I exchanged the battery with one that I know works and have the same problem. There is a 12v drop between the solenold starter switch and ground (on both the battery and frame). Any ideas?

[peejay4A]

It should be easy to find but guessing won't really help you. Out with the test meter or test lamp.

[Icarus60]

Hal

Check the heavy wires at the control box to ensure that they are secure. Check the earthing.

Be careful

If you have a break in a connection that should be carrying 12v it might be that there is a live wire floating about behind the instrument panel. The live to the ignition switch is permanently live ( or should be ) and also the ammeter connection.

Suggest disconnect the battery and have a look behind the panel, iif there is 12v at the control box.

Regards

Rog

[Hal]

Thanks for the replies. It turned out to be a battery problem after all - or a 2 battery problem. The second one had enough to start my '51 Morris, but died on the TR3.

 

Thanks again...

 

-Hal

[Dave Larnder]

Hal

 

Fit one of those "Dis-connect" couplings to the negative terminal, and don´t forget to turn it off at night in the garage to save your battery and the chance of an electrical fire when you aren´t around to tend to it. Money well spent, I turn my off every night to be safe.

 

Dave.

[Don H.]

Hal

 

Fit one of those "Dis-connect" couplings to the negative terminal, and don´t forget to turn it off at night in the garage to save your battery and the chance of an electrical fire when you aren´t around to tend to it. Money well spent, I turn my off every night to be safe.

 

Dave.

 

I had one of those years ago, on a Saab 900 Turbo that wasn't a regular driver -- one of the gold-colored zinc castings that looks like brass, with a green knob. It kept getting a bit of corrosion in the switch that would lead to a no-start due to high resistance and low current flow. I got rid of it. Sounds like yours is better than that one, Dave.

 

Most of the time I disconnect the battery ground strap if the car's going to be parked for more than a few days, and connect a Battery Tender to the battery.

[Hal]

I installed "Dis-connect" coupling yesterday. I will see how it goes.

 

I have had a trickle charger attached to the battery. It did not seem to help much. Do any of you have experience with them?

 

-Hal

[Don H.]

I've used a CTEK battery maintainer on my motorbike for a couple of years, and a Battery Tender Plus on my TR for longer than that. They've worked perfectly.

 

What do you mean, Hal, they "did not seem to help much"?

[RobH]

A 'Dis-connect' won't stop the battery running down. There is internal leakage which does that whether or not the battery is connected to anything. It is important that a lead-acid battery is maintained at full charge even when disused for some time. If it isn't then sulphating of the plates can occur with permanent loss of capacity.

[Lebro]

+1