Britishbest Posted August 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 Power loss again today after 40 miles (120 including yesterday) First gear pulling away nothing until 2000rpm, very dangerous indeed at junctions. The culprit is the timing, it was out a couple degrees from setting yesterday morning. I set it again, quick drive and all OK lots of instant power. So unless I hadn't tightened the distributor clamp enough which is quite possible what else might be upsetting the timing like this chaps? Stef the 2500rpm thing came from chatting to chaps at classic car events so not Triumph Specific. Also I read it on an American Triumph forum. I'll open her up a bit. Engine still very tappety but trying not to worry on that. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bob-menhennett Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 I'd back you up on a loose distributor clamp as No1 likely culprit. Points or electronic ? either way ,nothing loose inside , nuts nipped up, base plate moving easily , not catching ,everything generally clean & tidy. No slop in the rotor arm function ( if points ) or the trigger fixing ( if electronic ). Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Britishbest Posted August 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 Thanks Bob good points. Its an Electronic job. Need to get my lucas disti repaired. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 The important thing when breaking in is to not let the engine labour. Do a search for BMEP to see discussions at length on break in procedures. A couple of degrees out wouldn't make an enormous difference in performance if that's all it was but if the distributor was slopping around when running anything's possible. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
monty Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 The important thing when breaking in is to not let the engine labour. Do a search for BMEP to see discussions at length on break in procedures. A couple of degrees out wouldn't make an enormous difference in performance if that's all it was but if the distributor was slopping around when running anything's possible. Agreed, surprised if only a couple of degrees or so in timing would make a huge difference. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Britishbest Posted September 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2017 Just to close this thread off..... The power loss was the distributor clamp not tight enough, the body moved enough to give power loss. The tappety noise wasnt tappets at all, it was the exhaust manifold blowing. I am amazed it made such a loud tappet like noise from having a loose manifold, the gaskets were shot. The stainless extractor manifolds (I have a phoenix) tend to have a thinner guage flange than the factory inlet manifold so the spreaders dont pull evenly under the stud. A blob of weld on one side of the spreader fixed this. I still have spacers under the pedestals, I checked the marks on the tappets and they are central so I am staying with this for now as the geometry looks ok to me. The car now has a lot more power and torque than standard, very pleased so far. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GT6M Posted September 20, 2017 Report Share Posted September 20, 2017 (edited) Div nae set yer gaps to book figure Unless yer rockers are as new. if ye doo, an they olde/worn they always rattle mainly cos yer set,n gaps up to twice the gap look at pic, an suss it oot,!!! M Edited September 20, 2017 by GT6M Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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