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Tr5 PI Timing and valve guides


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Hi

I am just replacing a broken rocker arm that has finally arrived here overseas.

While gapping the valves I wondering if I should wonder away from from the standard Haines gap?

I am running leaded valves (original) and always used Castrol additive and even though I have done some hard driving over the years (used to organise a 50 alpine passes in 5 days gig) I have always been on it and happy My father has an original from new H reg 150bhp TR6 and my 5 leaves nothing to be desired on engine note.

The car was running rough lately and after checking what I thought was everything (but it wasnt) I eventually found the rocker, but before that I had been over the plugs, new HT cables points (yes I still run points) new rotor arm (one was wobbly) and all sorts.

After 8 months storage its was running even worse, backfiring and all sort, so I even swapped in a metering unit as my old one was running a bit rich and I think the diaphragm had now gone after long term storage.

I have always done the timing very statically and then just driven it 'on the ear' to get what I want.

As I am about to put the rocker gear back I was wondering if there is anything different on the valve gaps and timing I might try.?

To be honest I have always been very happy and am sure the new refurbished metering unit that was overhauled by Pumfords will be a please too.

Just asking if anyone would have any suggestions for setting valves and timing that might be different to what I have always done?

Thanks

T

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Haha Thanks Pete.

But I meant as in if Neil wanted to mention why he felt that was appropriate for the timing? Is that what is now considered right with different fuel etc?

 

I also just stripped the threads on 2 studs at 28lbs and yet the TR book says 34lbs.

Haines says 24-26lbs.??

The studs and nuts were very good and the Torque wrench in theory is checked.

Am I missing something?

Is the Haines manual right and 34 is too much?

I tightened them with the rockers as per when I took them off. It shouldnt make any difference but should I have slackened off every rocker first?

It shouldnt be the cause should it?

I am wondering if the Haines is right and the TR book wrong.

Why would studs and nuts strip at 28lbs if perfect?

Thanks

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Thanks you Neil. So the Haynes manual is wrong then.

I have ordered a complete set of studs and nuts.

But the ones on car looked good when I refitted.

Can you think of any reason why these stripped at what read as 28lbs?

I dont want to strip them again, do you think it can only be in the torque wrench? (this was checked against another and actually came up light)

Should I have needed to slacken off all the rockers first?

Really dont want to strip these again.

Thanks

T

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As In tighten each a bit of at a time? 'yes'

I thought I was being really careful.

I started at 20lbs tightened all and then moved up to 24 etc then all again and so on

Got to 28lbs and stripped.

Should I have slackened all the rockers off first?

Should I double nut tighten the new studs when refitting?

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No Neil the car is mine for more than 20 years and I have only ever cold adjusted the valves on occasions.

In fact much as in the old days there was all the hype about unleaded I have alwasy used valvemaster and seemed to have been ok in about 50k.

The brocken rocker must have happened about 100 odd miles ago as thats when I started hearing 5 cylinders.

But as It was end of last summer after changed distributor cap, leads, rotor arm points and plugs it got cold I got fed up so I stored the car and only got back to it now, hence found the sheared rocker.

 

Now back to my question Was I going to far turning 1+ turns of each nut should I work at 1/2 to one turns of each?

When I remover the rocker assembly I slackened off each as I went, but maybe now tightening I did too many turns between each.

I have moved the rockers on shaft and they seem pretty free and well oiled, oil at number 6 stud is also fairly clean (I change oil around 3k)

I thought I was being careful but maybe I wasnt enough.?

Should I just do 1/2 to 1 turn each when cranking up?

Could it have been just that? As I said studs and nuts looked fine before.

Thanks

T

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+1, likely the dreaded po has been there. Personally I always slacken the adjusters off while refitting mainly because I b@ggered up a Ford camshaft by assuming that all would remain the same.

 

As for timing, start with Neil's setting then tune by ear to eliminate pinking under load.

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PO?

 

So Pete adjusters slackened off and 1/2 turns or like 2lb increases each time.?

I have to say I now have the lurgey on this I can see me stripping them again so I am probably going to have a mechanic pal come over.

he probably wont even uise a torque as he is one of this 30 years hands on types. hahahahaha

Is there a particular tightening order? I was doing like 2,4,6,1,3,5 etc.

 

Timing is a week or so of now but point taken.

T

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I'm guilty of never having used a torque wrench on the rocker pedestal nuts. I just do them up tight. As for order of tightening I do maybe a turn or two on each, no particular order, making sure that the shaft is level.

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Ahh Pete.

 

No Niel

My dad bought a Tr6 new in 1970 which is still in the family.

I bought the Tr5 just over 20 years ago. Only had a new Gbox after a layshaft failure rest is as was when bought except for metering unit I have just changed.

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