earckens Posted August 4, 2017 Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 (edited) Hi, after reading up on this topic I found out that the bushings in the wishbone mostly are to blame. I my case, the left front suspension starts creaking after a few miles, especially in hot weather. The bushings are old (cracking) rubber, so I am thinking about replacing them; is this Moss set adequate http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/bush-set-front-suspension-gac6068x.html?assoc=118478 ? What tools apart from a spring compressor (and what type of spring compressor do you advise?) are recommended (not counting the obvious spanners)? Thanks for your feedback! Erik Edited August 4, 2017 by earckens Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted August 4, 2017 Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 (edited) Go for Superpro or other brand of polybush. They will last you a lifetime. You only need a pair of standard spring compressors and a set of bushing tools but if you're not reasonably equipped and skilled for the job I would advice to get it done by a workshop as there are many safety/security features involved (steering, brakes, etc...). Edit: While you're at it you may want to replace the trunnions as they are critical for safety. Edited August 4, 2017 by Geko Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Icarus60 Posted August 4, 2017 Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 Erik With the greatest respect to Geko you are strongly advised not to try to use a pair of standard Spring compressors but get hold of the the correct type of compressor which passes up through the centre of the spring and is very east to use in a safe manner. Regards Rog Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted August 4, 2017 Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 +1 on the compressor but you don't need the factory item. All you need is a decent piece of threaded steel rod 15mm diameter or bigger ( I use 20mm) and thick steel plates big enough to cover the holes in the spring pans. A search will find plenty of discussion in these forums on the subject.: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/55946-dimensions-spec-of-front-spring-compressor/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7js8y9rMXzk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted August 4, 2017 Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 4, 2017 Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 +2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PYU940F Posted August 4, 2017 Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 (edited) Have just done my front suspension. I do NOT advise using standard spring compressor unless you want a couple of broken fingers. Use the proper tool or it is relatively easy make a threaded rod with steel plates and nuts top and bottom because basically that is what the special tool is. A few tips. 1/ The inboard springpan to lower wishbone attachments are studs not bolts. It is very difficult to get onto the nut and the stud will probably unscrew anyway so save loads of time and hassle; just take out the 2 bolts that hold the bumper support to the chassis. The bumper support can then be moved sufficiently out of the way to make life easy. (Spray WD40 on the nuts 30 mins before) 2/ When you put the spring pan back temporally fit a couple of really long bolts ( or 10mm threaded rod) where the middle bolts are. This guides the spring pan up nicely onto the wishbones 3/ I bought a battery impact wrench and it made life a lot easier. 4/ Try and get a friend to help you as you will need 3 hands on a lot of the tasks 5/ Consider changing the aft lower wishbone fulcrum support bracket with the modified and stronger one with 2 studs (available from Moss) 6/ Consider installing the kit to beef up the forward wishbone support bracket as this is weak part of suspension ( simple welding required) 7/ Consider putting spax fully adjustable shock absorbers on. Brilliant units 8/ As previously mentioned if the trunnions are at all suspect or have not been regularly greased during their life change them. A good friend of mine was involved in a fatal accident (not him) in the 60's when his trunnion failed. 9/ Get the Moss parts catalogue because their diagrams/drawings of the suspension are really good and helps one understand the system. 10/ Good trolley jack required 11/ Good quality axle stands required 12/ The new bushes will go in with a lot of effort either in a vice or bush installing tool.` USE LOADS OF COPPER SLIP, Do not worry that the bush starts bulging and going out of shape, it will eventually go in with a very satisfying sort of globbing/sucking sound. The job looks daunting but it is really just a case of being methodical and always double think about safety, With a friend the first side will take 4 hours, then have a cup of coffee, the second side will take 2 hours with all the trick learnt earlier. Your front suspension will be transformed, Cheers Simon Edited November 27, 2017 by PYU940F Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 4, 2017 Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 Hi Erik, the cracks in the rubber that you can see are fairly normal for old bushes. However the area that counts is protected by the wishbones etc and will, almost certainly, be in good condition. Is there any play anywhere associated with a bush. The squeaking can be removed with a squirt or two of WD40. If you take it all apart you may well find that steel sleeves are rusted to bolts. (not sure of the TR4 set-up) If you do replace the bushes do use the SuperPro or PolyBush kits. The kit you have highlighted is very basic and not that good. If you have any doubts over doing the job get a garage to do it. With it all stripped down check the area above the thread on the Vertical Link - #32 http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/steering-suspension/front-suspension/front-suspension-tr2-3a-tr4.html If there is signs of rust then consider replacing the VL - they do snap and it is usually caused by rust. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 4, 2017 Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 (Spray WD40 on the nuts 30 mins before) Cheers Simon Better to use proper penetrating fluid (Plus Gas etc) or diesel. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
earckens Posted August 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 I want to thank you all for this fantastic replies I get at such very short notice. I did find a spring compressor for TR at Moss: http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/spring-compressor-tr-386-895.html, I guess that is the one Roger et.al. are referring too? Preferably I would try and do it myself first as I have not too much faith in the local car repair shops; and in case a shop will have to do it at least I will have the spring compression tool and parts to give to them. The areas around the wishbones and vertical link were checked again: see pictures. The shock absorber and associated mounting rubbers seem to have been renewed fairly recently, they look new. Today I will get some WD-40 (if I can get it here), thank you Roger, and let you know the results. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
earckens Posted August 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 Have just done my front suspension. I do NOT advise using standard spring compressor unless you want a couple of broken fingers. Use the proper tool or it is relatively easy make a threaded rod with steel plates and nuts top and bottom because basically that is what the special tool is. A few tips. 1/ The outboard springpan to lower wishbone attachments are studs not bolts. It is very difficult to get onto the nut and the stud will probably unscrew anyway so save loads of time and hassle; just take out the 2 bolts that hold the bumper support to the chassis. The bumper support can then be moved sufficiently out of the way to make life easy. (Spray WD40 on the nuts 30 mins before) 2/ When you put the spring pan back temporally fit a couple of really long bolts ( or 10mm threaded rod) where the middle bolts are. This guides the spring pan up nicely onto the wishbones 3/ I bought a battery impact wrench and it made life a lot easier. 4/ Try and get a friend to help you as you will need 3 hands on a lot of the tasks 5/ Consider changing the aft lower wishbone fulcrum support bracket with the modified and stronger one with 2 studs (available from Moss) 6/ Consider installing the kit to beef up the forward wishbone support bracket as this is weak part of suspension ( simple welding required) 7/ Consider putting spax fully adjustable shock absorbers on. Brilliant units 8/ As previously mentioned if the trunnions are at all suspect or have not been regularly greased during their life change them. A good friend of mine was involved in a fatal accident (not him) in the 60's when his trunnion failed. 9/ Get the Moss parts catalogue because their diagrams/drawings of the suspension are really good and helps one understand the system. 10/ Good trolley jack required 11/ Good quality axle stands required 12/ The new bushes will go in with a lot of effort either in a vice or bush installing tool.` USE LOADS OF COPPER SLIP, Do not worry that the bush starts bulging and going out of shape, it will eventually go in with a very satisfying sort of globbing/sucking sound. The job looks daunting but it is really just a case of being methodical and always double think about safety, With a friend the first side will take 4 hours, then have a cup of coffee, the second side will take 2 hours with all the trick learnt earlier. Your front suspension will be transformed, Cheers Simon Great post, thank you! Erik Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 4, 2017 Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 Better to use proper penetrating fluid (Plus Gas etc) or diesel. Bob. Hi Bob, I am not sure how PlusGss/Diesel would affect the rubber. WD40 is pretty useless and doesn't affect too many things. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
earckens Posted August 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 +1 on the compressor but you don't need the factory item. All you need is a decent piece of threaded steel rod 15mm diameter or bigger ( I use 20mm) and thick steel plates big enough to cover the holes in the spring pans. A search will find plenty of discussion in these forums on the subject.: Great video!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lynchpin Posted August 4, 2017 Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 Hi Dry creaking bushes can be sprayed with an aerosol can of spray PTFE I assure you it does work, obviously make sure you don,t get any on brake disc etc.. Phil... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 4, 2017 Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 Perhaps you like this, I´ve been told it´s better than Moss because of the balled head http://www.ebay.de/itm/232403344817?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted August 4, 2017 Report Share Posted August 4, 2017 Very nice. I can see why you recommend it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4A1965 Posted August 5, 2017 Report Share Posted August 5, 2017 Here's the tool I made with a threaded bar and an old agricultural gate hinge part:-) This bit of kit can also be repurposed to extract bushes in the IRS rear suspension using a large socket to pull through:-) Best. Paul. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted August 5, 2017 Report Share Posted August 5, 2017 Perhaps you like this, I´ve been told it´s better than Moss because of the balled head Who's got a bald head Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
earckens Posted August 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2017 .... 5/ Consider changing the aft lower wishbone fulcrum support bracket with the modified and stronger one with 2 studs (available from Moss) ... 6/ Consider installing the kit to beef up the forward wishbone support bracket as this is weak part of suspension ( simple welding required) .... Hi Simon, item 5: can you please show where this is situated in the Moss drawing http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/front-suspension-tr2-3a-tr4.htmlI can't find it, thanks! Item 6: where do I find this kit in the Moss catalog? Added note: I did spray the bushingrubbers and insides with PTFE dry lube: the creaking is gone. And I also ordered the Superpro kit from Moss, replacement next year. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted August 6, 2017 Report Share Posted August 6, 2017 Hi Erik, they are for the TR4A Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
earckens Posted August 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2017 Hi Erik, they are for the TR4A Roger Hi Roger, mine is a TR4, so the items 5 and 6 mentioned by Simon do not apply to my car? Greetings, Erik Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PYU940F Posted August 6, 2017 Report Share Posted August 6, 2017 Hi Erik Yes I was describing the procedure for a TR4A so items 5 and 6 do not apply. Sorry for confusion Simon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted August 6, 2017 Report Share Posted August 6, 2017 Who's got a bald head Bob. &:-) not me Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve Priest Posted August 7, 2017 Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 (edited) Hi Erick, Just to add to what others have already said, I did this job on my TR4 last winter for the same reason as you - one side creaked like crazy when the weather was hot. On mine the creaking was mainly from the lower control arm rear nylon bushes (I'd previously tried lubricating them without success). I replaced the old white nylon ones with these unrated black 'nylatron' ones from Revington (and also the washers on each side): http://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr3203/name/bush-nylatron-tr2-6-f-bush It did the job and stopped the creaking. Just be aware that the bushes are supplied with the ID undersize so need to be reamed to fit. I bought a cheap expandable hand reamer on eBay, which did the job nicely. At the same time I replaced all the rubber components with SuperPro bushes and the control arm bronze bushes with oilite ones. I bought a Moss spring compressor which worked well, although as others have said, it wouldn't be too difficult to make one: http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/spring-compressor-tr-386-895.html Cheers, Steve Edited August 7, 2017 by Steve Priest Quote Link to post Share on other sites
earckens Posted August 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2017 (edited) ... Just be aware that the bushes are supplied with the ID undersize so need to be reamed to fit. I bought a cheap expandable hand reamer on eBay, which did the job nicely. At the same time I replaced all the rubber components with SuperPro bushes and the control arm bronze bushes with oilite ones. ... Cheers, Steve Hi Steve, can I find the "hand reamer" on ebay using that wording? The control arm bronze bushes: do you have a Moss or Rimmer Brothers reference? I plan an replacing the trunnions as well, per good advice from RogerH and others. Spraying PTFE helps temporarily so far, I have to do some more driving but it seems ok until now -quite embarassing this creaking-. Grts, Erik Edited August 7, 2017 by earckens Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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