RogerH Posted July 28, 2017 Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 Hi Tony, you asked for the torque loading of the pedestal stud/nut. You now have it in pounds and Kg. If the front pedestal is undone and the stud removed then maybe the pedestal could be removed allowing #2 arm to the removed also. You will need to look to see if this is possible. Most people would take the whole things off but you are in a hurry. The split pin is not special. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted July 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 Hi Roger thanks indeed haynes is wrong it seems. I am not that much of a hurry surely only a couple of hours work (I have to wait for the rocker to arrive anyway and I wonder if trying to remove the stud might be harder than just unbolting all 4 stud bolts especially as I will have to find another nut at least to use to try and free the stud. So would you all agree that the best attempt of to try and take of N°1 pedastal and if I have problems unwind all 4 nuts and lift it all off? Does that sound right? Thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted July 28, 2017 Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 I give in Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted July 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 Sorry NtC did i say something wrong? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 28, 2017 Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 Hi Tony, you seem to be bobbing form one thing to the next. Simply remove the whole rocker shaft as this is not a big job. then you can do all the things you need. Your actions in replacing the metering unit due to rough running is not a good move. More investigation should have been taken. Anyway you are where you are. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted July 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 Hi Roger There seems to be sone confusion. I originally just asked what was the best way to replace no2 rocker as it seemed to me removing the 4 nuts and lifting off the whole assembly was Easiest and the discussion has gone from there. Regards the MU I had a spare and the old one was 20 years since last calibration so I swapped it for my reconed spare. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted July 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 As I am overseas (holiday home) it's a drag ordering loads of parts to be shipped when a rocker is just a pop in an envelope job. Hope it's clearer now. T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 28, 2017 Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 Hi I had some rough running for a while on my TR5 PI went through whole lot, even replaced metering unit (was due anyway) and finally tracked it down to a brocken rocker arm on N°2 valve. I dont want to get too involved right now so... I have just ordered a new original style arm and was wondering if its best to simply remove the whole shaft assembly by undoing the pedestals nuts (whats torque just over 3,4 right?) or if to remove pin and cap and replace on situ as its only the second one from the front.? Anything else I should check? Any particular reason an arm should break? Thanks. Tony Hi Tony, you stated you didn't want to get too involved and that is understandable. You also asked which would be best. This was answered Anyway, water under the bridge. It is very easy to lift the rocker shaft and complete and work on the bench. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted July 28, 2017 Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 When you take the valve cover off you will see from the comments of Neil and others plus the evidence before your eyes that the only sensible way to do the job is to remove the whole rocker shaft and replace the broken arm on the bench. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted July 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 Hi yes and that's the confusion. But I have to wait for the rocker to arrive and 4 bolts seems the easiest way to go, although it seemed as if you were suggesting to try and slip the rocker with shaft in situ. Anyway I will lift it all off so maybe I can take a proper look ready for when the car is back home end of summer. Thanks T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted July 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 Exactly Peejay. Cover is already been off or I could not have recovered the Brocken bit of you think about it. That's the way I want to go. Lift it all off, remove the Brocken one and then put the whole lot back on again. Sounds like 30m to me with just a quick inspection before I reset the gaps. But I was asking should I recheck the new rocker gap after day 500m? Thsnks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted July 28, 2017 Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 (edited) You do not remove the shaft. The whole lot and simply replace the rocker on the bench ,shaft stays where it is.It should take less than 30 mins. Edited July 28, 2017 by ntc Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted July 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 Yes just slide the only bits I need to swap rocker and then put back the two removed bits. Then put the lot back on and tighten down and reset gaps. In winter I will redo the lot with a kit. That's where the confusion has been as I thought Roger was telling me not to take the whole lot off. But also I asked, do I need to run the new rocker in by checking the clearances after say 500m? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted July 28, 2017 Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 You only need to set the new rocker and yes later on but milege not that important just now,and good luck finding a new set that is hard enough from the normal suppliers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted July 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2017 Hi NtC You seem to be implying that replacements are not as hard as originals? Would I be better off just replacing the shaft with tuftrided and not rockers? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted July 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2017 As in use old rockers rather than replacements if not long life? But would they fit well in a new shaft? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted August 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2017 Hi Just an update. I finally got the new rocker and a few minutes so whipped the whole assembly off. The replacement rocker from Rimmers was indeed a good fit its made in India and does have a more net machine finish on the pushrod collar whereas Stanpart ones have a curved finish. The shaft actually looks in quite good condition and as mine is just a quick repair I wasnt going to remove all rockers, but from what I can see there is only polished wear and just a slight groove where the brocken rocker had probably been moving around. I can push the number two valve down slightly by hand (as with all) when pressing down with a socket. So I dont thing the valve was stuck. Anything else I should look for before putting it all back up? Should I really disturb everything to check all wear on shaft? Enough to rock the car back and forth after to make sure valve doesnt have some strange reason rocker broke? I guess when resetting the valve distances I would see anyway right? Thanks for any advise. Tony P.s. Roger did you want a close up of the brocken rocker? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rem18 Posted August 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 Update on this. The replacement from Rimmers has slightly harder machined edges and the valve adjuster nut is annoyingly not a 1/2??? I will advise as it runs... T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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