Brocken rocker arm

[Rem18]

Hi

I had some rough running for a while on my TR5 PI went through whole lot, even replaced metering unit (was due anyway) and finally tracked it down to a brocken rocker arm on N°2 valve.

I dont want to get too involved right now so...

I have just ordered a new original style arm and was wondering if its best to simply remove the whole shaft assembly by undoing the pedestals nuts (whats torque just over 3,4 right?) or if to remove pin and cap and replace on situ as its only the second one from the front.?

Anything else I should check?

Any particular reason an arm should break?

Thanks.

Tony

 

[TriumphV8]

Would check if the valve guide is sticky.

Also the new rockers often have very soft tips.

If there is wear on the rocker shaft a new tuftrided is cheap and quickly fitted.

[Rem18]

Thanks Andreas but ruight now I am away from home with it abroad.

I just want to get it running so my question please was regards how best to change it.

remove whole rocker from pedestal or remove cape and slide off in situ.

Thanks

[boxofbits]

Hi Tony

 

It might be best to take the shaft off and as Andreas says the rocker shaft could be worn causing the rockers to jam or tilt. So might be worth a thorough inspection.

 

Kevin

[RogerH]

Hi Tony,

for a quick repair, if it will slide on then that is the easy way. Removing the whole assembly may find things you have no time for at present.

Does the new one come with a bush?

 

Is it possible to post a good close up photo of both broken pieces of the crack face.

 

This is the second arm breaking recently (this year) the other was a TR3 - I suppose age has something to do with it.

When you take it all apart look at each arm and smooth out any rough edges - especially on the underside.

 

Roger

[Rem18]

Thanks Andreas for the tip I was going to look at the valve when I put the new rocker on.

The car is on the move right now so I just want to get it back up for now.

I just want to know if its best to remove the whole lot via pedestals nuts, or remove caps and slip out the brocken rocker.

Also that the torque was 3,3-3,5 etc.

T

[Rem18]

Thanks Boxofbits and Roger.

I am still not clear best way to remove, just the guilty party or take the whole lot of at the pedestal bolts?

I would think the whole lot so I can move them all on a table as a unit to make sure they are all fairly OK.

I just ordered one which Rimmers told me is a straight fit without reaming etc.

As I intended to just get it back up running, then maybe order a complete overhaul kit if it plays up.

The car has often been drive hard (we used to run a 50 alpine passes in 5 days jaunt) and she has done a few miles in the 20 years I have had her.

I suspect the rocker went after a long lay up just after a 700mile non stop motorway run.

Its intake valve on N°1.

Here is a shot of the brocken tip, the rest is still on the car so I can move here till bit arrives.

The break area is black which tells me it was brocken a few miles before probably to be stained.

So my question is.

Is it OK to just unwind the pedestal nuts and lift the whole lot off to wiggle and work on indoors or only take of the cap and try and slide N°1 and spring off and slide the new N°2 back on all in situ?

Taking the whole shaft and rockers away of the pedestals seems easiest and quicked check???

Thanks

T

P.s. pic included.

 

[Rem18]

PS the brocken rocker on the shaft rotates freely

[Rem18]

another shot

[RogerH]

Hi Tony,

the picture is too small to clearly see the broken area. Never mind, just something of interest.

 

I would still try and replace the one arm without shaft removal - if it can be done.

 

Roger

[Rem18]

Hi Roger

I just clicked the image and it opens up fine?

Its broken diagonally near the tip from 10-25mm.

 

So would all agree to try and slide the shaft back?

I think thats likely to run into some resistance of any of the rockers are a little bit tighter no?

Lifting the entore shaft off would seem easiest?

 

One question, it is correct that the broken rocker now rotates freely?

These are only held in place between the push rod and valve right? Otherwise are free?

 

Thanks

T

[RogerH]

Hi Tony,

yes it does open up but is too small resolution to see the crack face.

 

I would still be tempted to slide the new rocker on if it is possible.

 

I would also do as suggested by Andreas and try to see if the valve moves up and down freely.

 

Roger

[Rem18]

.

Edited July 28, 2017 by Rem18

[Rem18]

Hi Roger

Yes of course I was going to push the valve although I dont think these can be compressed much by hand? Maybe I will take the handle of my WW mallet and try to push down a bit.

I am including another shot a bit closer. The break seems clean not levered.

I scratched it a bit to confirm that its blackened and thus probably run a little bit on the break (IE not completely new)

T

[RogerH]

Hi Tony,

in order to lever a valve down - using a ring or combination spanner.

Place a ring over a pedestal stud and capture it with a big washer and nut.

Place the handle of the spanner over the valve stem.

You can then press down on the other end of the spanner and the valve should easiiy move down.

 

Roger

[Guest ntc]

You will need to remove the whole rocker assembly end of.

edit https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-214559RASSY

Edited July 28, 2017 by ntc

[roy53]

You will need to remove the whole rocker assembly end of.

edit https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-214559RASSY

+1 it's easy to do

[Guest ntc]

+1 it's easy to do

Roger does try bless him

[RogerH]

Hi Neil,

as I said in my earlier post that I wasn't sure if it was possible. If it isn't then so be it.

But wouldn't it be nice to do it the easy way. if possible.

 

And according to Sue - I am trying, very trying.

 

Roger

[Rem18]

Hi Neil yes thats my goal after end of summer.

But I am still not getting it.

Is it just enough to unwind the 4 pedestal nuts and remove the whole lot?

Disassemble and refit, then put back and torque down (3,3-3,5kg right)?

Thanks

T

[Guest ntc]

T

No as number 2 is behind the mount and the torque is 34, it is very easy to do.You do not need to readjust the others just make sure as you bolt it down the rockers are touching the pushrods as you bolt it down.

Edited July 28, 2017 by ntc

[saffrontr]

As NTC says easy to do. I took mine apart recently with a view to checking for wear and was quite shocked at the wear marks on the shaft itself and on the ends of some of the rocker tips so ended up replacing all 12 rockers and the shaft. Very easy to do and relatively inexpensive and probably only took me a couple of hours in total. You will also need a new spit pin for the end of the shaft whether you end up replacing all like I did or just the one rocker.

 

cheers

 

Derek

[RogerH]

Hi Tony,

 

4.7Kg/M http://tecb.eu/onewebmedia/TR6_repair_manual.pdf

 

regarding the rocker arm indentation. The depression is not wear but a depression into the softer parent metal.

The metal around the depression can be ground back and you will still have the hard face where the depression was/is.

No need to replace. - honest

 

Roger

.

[Rem18]

Ok so pedastal bolts are tightened to 4.7 (thought haynes says 3,3-3,6)

But I am still stupid.

Please answer clearly..

Are we taking the whole assembly off via the 4 pedastal nuts to work indoors or are we trying to slide the shaft back just to get to N°2?

If we are talking about doing this in situ rather than removing the whole rocker gear, then why are you giving me the torque setting?

Sorry guys. I am just stupid....

Ps the split pin is just a new standard one not something special right?

[Rem18]

I will be buying the Rimmer overhaul kit in winter. As I imagine engine will time better too?

But right now I will just replace the rocker and want the best way to get at it.

 

On another subject I heard that the replacement rockers are not so hard is that the case or are they up to standard?

The rocker I will replace will it need re-checking after say 500Miles as it might need to bed in?