Tonyloz Posted July 14, 2017 Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 Hi Does anyone have a template for the inner wing baffles? The peice of sheet metal that goes behind the front wings to stop road dirt At over £60 a pair for a bit of sheet metal ,that most probably wont fit seems a bit excessive Thanks Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 14, 2017 Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 (edited) Hi Does anyone have a template for the inner wing baffles? The peice of sheet metal that goes behind the front wings to stop road dirt At over £60 a pair for a bit of sheet metal ,that most probably wont fit seems a bit excessive Thanks Tony Yes I have a NOS pair that I can scan and send. Same way as I do for aeroscreen glass. They were originally made in two pieces with the top 'arm' welded to the main section. Get them powder coated at least or make from stainless as they rot quite quickly. Cheers Peter W PS The originals are a snug fit too! - Pierce your bolt holes when you are sure you know where you want them. PPS Print out page 1 and page 3. fit together- the plate is 20 1/4" tall by 8 1/4" at widest. ( I cocked up the scanning so page 2 is rubbish) PDF attached 900411 Baffle Plate.pdf PPPS In days of old, Cox & Buckles used to make these from aluminium sheet. Edited July 14, 2017 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tonyloz Posted July 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 Thanks peter Ali sounds a good idea! T Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 14, 2017 Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 Except if you make them of Ally you will get galvanic reaction between. I make them from a template one I keep in stock and use 18SWG steel then use Bondarust/stonechip/primer/paint and have never had any problem like that. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Long Door Posted July 14, 2017 Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 I made mine from sheet steel + many coats of Hammerite onto a well scratched surface . Where the plates fit up to the inside of the wings I fitted a rubber tube split along its length, makes a good seal & stops vibration but I might yet add Denso tape across the 2 surfaces to guarantee a seal Keith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 Except if you make them of Ally you will get galvanic reaction between. I make them from a template one I keep in stock and use 18SWG steel then use Bondarust/stonechip/primer/paint and have never had any problem like that. Stuart. Not if you coat the steel bits in EC776 as Rover/Land Rover specify for aluminum items held with steel fasteners. ie V8 water pumps. http://www.v8register.net/subpages/V8NOTE1updated.htm Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 Not if you coat the steel bits in EC776 as Rover/Land Rover specify for aluminum items held with steel fasteners. ie V8 water pumps. http://www.v8register.net/subpages/V8NOTE1updated.htm Peter W Extracting the specific passage referenced by Peter in case the link is lost some time down the road: Refitting: Smear a new gasket both sides with Golden Hemetite and place it in position on the new pump. The next piece of information is very important. The four long bolts must be coated with 3M EC776 thread lubricant - Rover part number 605764. Failure to do so may mean the next time you come to change the water pump, the long steel bolts may be impossible to remove as they will be corroded solid in the aluminium block. Only coat one bolt at a time and put it in the pump and block with the coating wet. Do not let the lubricant air dry. Finally torque up the bolts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tonyloz Posted July 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 Thanks for all the info Another job fof the weekend☺ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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