Removing the radiator. 2 bolts = 2 hours

[Menno van Rij]

As mentioned earlier this year, my TR has a leaking radiator. Indeed, where the neck joins the rad house. As my first retirement job, I started dismantling the front end of the car. That went down smoothly (properly greased bolts when I assembled it 8 yrs ago).

 

Then I hit the two lower bolts on both ends of the radiator. Both bolts took 2 hours to undo. Okay, I am retired now, but there are better ways to enjoy your time. When I put the spanner on the bolts, everything was fine, but when the bolts came undone and dropped about 1/2", the back of the spanner got stuck on an edge/flange of the chassis rail. I was unable to lower the bolt further down. And other spanners weren't up to the job due to their shape etc.

 

As said, two hours for two bolts. Up to the moment where I started tackling the bolts, it had taken me less than one hour to get the front apron off. I am going to modify the lower end of the radiator, for easier access with a spanner or wrench. Just thinking about the best solution for now. Cutting away the useless edge of the chassis is not an option for now.

 

The radiator is off to the local repair shop. It will be ready on Wednesday or so. After that, it's building-time.

 

Menno

[stuart]

That sort of job is definitely one for a special socket or spanner. My lads always used to laugh at me for buying what they called "Silly spanners" from Snapon like wobbly 1/4" drive sockets and "C" spanners and crows foot wrenches. It only has to get you out of trouble once and its paid for itself.

Stuart.

[Lebro]

Sorry, can't see your photo.

Surely the two bolts should just drop straight down ?

 

Bob.

[Fireman049]

I've sent in my modification for the lower radiator bolts for my 3A to the magazine. I hope it will be printed to help other members.

 

Tom.

[Don H.]

I'm doing exactly this project now, Menno, as I work on my fan and radiator. Cutting slots in the machine screws makes putting the bolts in or taking them out a two minute job. Highly recommended mod.

http://www.tr-register.com.au/Files/technical/radbolts.htm

 

Here's the image from the TR Register Australia site. Mine look exactly the same.

Edited July 10, 2017 by Don H.

[Don H.]

Sorry, can't see your photo.

Surely the two bolts should just drop straight down ?

 

Bob.

 

The bolts go from bottom up on a sidescreen car, Bob. I guess it's been too long since you've dug into yours (lucky you).

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

I'm doing exactly this project now, Menno, as I work on my fan and radiator. Cutting slots in the machine screws makes putting the bolts in or taking them out a two minute job. Highly recommended mod.

http://www.tr-register.com.au/Files/technical/radbolts.htm

 

Here's the image from the TR Register Australia site. Mine look exactly the same.

 

That screw driver slot is what I did to my TR2 in 1974,

 

When the screw head gets close to the chassis frame slide a wedge in between the rad foot and chassis mount to lift the radiator.

Peter W

PS I also have a 1/4 drive wobbly socket that is very useful.

[Lebro]

 

The bolts go from bottom up on a sidescreen car, Bob. I guess it's been too long since you've dug into yours (lucky you).

That's what I said ! the bolts undo & then drop down. I undo mine from underneath using a socket on a universal joint, & a long extension

 

 

Bob. (often misunderstood )

[Don H.]

Hah! Definitely misunderstood here, Bob! Got it now. Yes getting 'em out is a lot easier than getting them in.