Emergency spares

[qim]

The car is working (nearly fine) but I decided to get some spares in case of an emergency.

 

Distributor cap, and leads to the plugs. Where can I get the closest to the original (leads in black)?

 

What about brakes and clutch cylinders' I think all I need is the repair kits, right? That is the rubber bits.

 

Anything else I should think of, other than for a major breakdown?

Edited June 25, 2017 by qim

[Don H.]

Get a fan belt, definitely rotor and condenser to go with the distributor cap, a couple of fuses, perhaps a set of points and maybe a fuel diaphragm. It's normally fuel or spark that stops a car, and those things can be checked and replaced pretty easily. Plug leads seem a bit far -- perhaps just the longest one, 'cause you're not likely to need four at once. Brake and clutch cylinders (either master, slave, or wheel) might be more than needed -- roadside repair of those isn't that common.

 

And the tools to work on them, of course.

 

Are you comfortable changing any of those, Camilo? You've given the impression that you're not highly mechanical in your posts here, and if that's indeed the case it might be good to practice some of those "easy" changes so you're familiar with how to do it when it happens at night on the side of the road.

[foster461]

The clutch/brake master and clutch slave repair kits are easy to store and can always be fitted by a local repair shop even if you dont have the tools/expertise to fit them. In the end the best insurance is a cell phone and a subscription to a recovery service that will guarantee a flatbed home.

 

Stan

[EdwinTiben]

Definately a spark lead. Personal experience, have had 2 occasions one failed..

 

And bring Some wheel bearings and crossbearing For driveshaft. Not easy to replace on side of road, But local garages dont have one For our cars But can replace them

 

Some fluids, liquid gasket, tiewraps, piece of electrical wire and ducktape. It'll bring you home or even continue your trip

[qim]

Get a fan belt, definitely rotor and condenser to go with the distributor cap, a couple of fuses, perhaps a set of points and maybe a fuel diaphragm.

Fuel pump and Condenser replaced recently, and I have a spare fuel pump and fan belts, but I will get all the rest

 

 

Are you comfortable changing any of those, Camilo?

 

No, I just want to have them to be able to get the car going as soon as possible, if a problem arises

 

 

 

 

 

 

The clutch/brake master and clutch slave repair kits are easy to store and can always be fitted by a local repair shop even if you dont have the tools/expertise to fit them. In the end the best insurance is a cell phone and a subscription to a recovery service that will guarantee a flatbed home.

 

Yes, I want to get these, but as I asked above, I guess all I need is the Repair Kits, e.g. for rear brakes Moss 178G9065 for 10" brakes. But I am a bit confused (as usual about the actual cylinders that seem to be nearly the same price and maybe already includes the rubber bits...)

 

Stan

 

 

As I mentioned above, I am not going to attempt doing anything myself, even if when I bought the car 40 yerars ago, I did all the servicing and tuning and the car never ran so welll... but that was 40 years ago!

 

The Moss catalogue is a bit confusing when it comes to repair kits. I want the kits for the master cylinder (brake and clutch), slave cylinder (clutch under the car) and the two rear brake cylinders. I think this is all, right?

 

 

 

Definately a spark lead. Personal experience, have had 2 occasions one failed..

 

Yes, I want to get these, but what/where do you recommend, They seem to come in all colours of the rainbow and i want some sort of originality.black!

 

And bring Some wheel bearings and crossbearing For driveshaft.

 

Now, where do I find the crossbearing for driveshaft in Moss catalogue?

Some fluids, liquid gasket, tiewraps, piece of electrical wire and ducktape. It'll bring you home or even continue your trip

 

Good idea!

 

 

Thank you, all

Edited June 25, 2017 by qim

[TomMull]

The clutch/brake master and clutch slave repair kits are easy to store and can always be fitted by a local repair shop even if you dont have the tools/expertise to fit them. In the end the best insurance is a cell phone and a subscription to a recovery service that will guarantee a flatbed home.

 

Stan

I just rebuilt my cylinders, against sound advice to put in new ones, and find that after a few seconds of honing the bores were too rough to allow smooth action. No leaks and everything works but they are slow to return. The solution, I'm told, is to polish the bores after honing (I plan to do that as soon as I can figure out how). At any rate, for a spare, I'd certainly carry a new reproduction cylinder rather than a kit as the price is not much greater. One spare will work for either.

Things rarely quit unexpectedly, in my experience at least, electrics excepted. I'd concentrate in getting thing in order before you go and breakdowns will be rare.

Tom

Tom

[qim]

breakdowns will be rare.

 

 

I agree! Even though I hardly used the car in the last 20 odd years, before then I only had two "near" breakdowns: in France, during the night, the dynamo started playing up, I managed to get to a service station, on a Sunday, where an Italian guy who worked it and lived there with his wife, put new brushes in it, invited me for lunch... and away I went all the way to Lisbon. Another time, on my way home, in Portugal, the car stopped, late at night. Within seconds a car stopped behind me and the guy appeared to know about mechanics, It did not take him long to take the distributor cap out, clean it of apparently humidity and I was back driving home.

 

Not bad for an "old" car!

 

I am thinking of doing a week-long rally and would like to have some spares to take along. That's the reason for this post.

Edited June 25, 2017 by qim

[EdwinTiben]

Definately a spark lead. Personal experience, have had 2 occasions one failed..

Yes, I want to get these, but what/where do you recommend, They seem to come in all colours of the rainbow and i want some sort of originality.black!

Depends on what kind of plug caps you have? screw-in kind? Something like this: http://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/7mm-ht-ignition-lead-cable-multi-stranded-copper-core-black-pvc-x-1-meter-1851-p.asp

And bring Some wheel bearings and crossbearing For driveshaft.

Now, where do I find the crossbearing for driveshaft in Moss catalogue?

sorry, meant the universal Joints, in dutch we also call them cross bearings, but i thinks thats just dutch

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/clutch-transmission-drivetrain/drive-shafts-propshafts/propshaft-all-models.html

fluids:

- litre oil

- litre cooling

- small bottle brake fluid.

bring some spare bulbs (dont forget the bulb for ignition in your dash, its essential part of the charging, bulb broken ? no charging!)

spare radiator cap. had 2 failures (one myself and one of a friend) if broken, if theres too much pressure, your temp will rise, too less, you will loose cooling.

on longer trips i bring a Leak-stop for radiator if theres a small leak.

I can recommend trying to search on the internet for the parts you need, its a good excersise to learn your way in finding parts yourself esp when on longer trips as you can have parts delivered to a hotel or garage. mobile phones are, personal opinion, the best and most essential tool to take with you !

i also have the complete workshop manual and wiring diagram downloaded on my phone, for myself if needed or for a garage to look up things.

http://tecb.eu/onewebmedia/Triumph%20TR2,%20TR3,%20TR3A%20factory%20service%20manual.pdf

http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr24a.pdf

big mechanical failures probably is end-of-trip regardless what you take or do as preperation but as said before, rarely happen.

the rest can be fixed along the route, have done a couple of them through europe and except of a crash (...) always managed to get home on own power.

[qim]

Thanks Edwin

 

Depends on what kind of plug caps you have? screw-in kind? Something like this: http://www.autoelect...eter-1851-p.asp

 

 

I think I would prefer to get ready-made ones

 

 

I've spent the last year sorting out the mechanics and this year had the car stripped down to bare metal, and took the opportunity to do the radiator and all that goes with temperature, steering, suspension, dynamo and starter motor, new electrical loom. In fact, it's like a new car but for the gear-box and engine. the car runs well, although the consumption on long t rips seems ok, driving around town, high... I'll be looking at that soon.

 

In any case, I am now into tool rolls.. and thought of getting some comprehensive list of spares for an eventual long trip, either to Oxford, or to enter a rally.

 

Incidentallly, I am coming to the Netherlands at the end of July, on the way from Oxford to Andorra, but not with the TR. My daughter wants to see Amsterdam and The Hague, so if you're around "een bier alsjeblieft", or two, or three...

Regards

 

Camilo

Edited June 25, 2017 by qim

[qim]

Hi

 

With all the sidetracking I ended up digressing from the main questions:

 

Should I get repair kits for the brake/clutch master/slave cylinders or get the cylinders already with the rubber bits? This becomes more important following the comments of Tom #6.

 

Where can I get good made-up leads in black?

 

Thanks

[rhino_mac]

I'd buy replacement cylinders. They're not that expensive, and rebuilding an old corroded cylinder won't guarantee it won't leak again.

 

On the other hand, they don't tend to "let go" but rather they weep a bit of fluid out so it's not something I'd keep in the car "just in case"

 

I think this is what Tom was saying in Post #6 as well.

 

Where do you draw the line? If you're going to keep clutch and brake cylinders, are you going to keep wheel cylinders and calipers as well? Personally, I'd have a good old sort out of the brakes (I guess you have as the car has just been rebuilt) and then inspect them regularly.

[qim]

I'd buy replacement cylinders. They're not that expensive, and rebuilding an old corroded cylinder won't guarantee it won't leak again.

 

On the other hand, they don't tend to "let go" but rather they weep a bit of fluid out so it's not something I'd keep in the car "just in case"

 

I think this is what Tom was saying in Post #6 as well.

 

Where do you draw the line? If you're going to keep clutch and brake cylinders, are you going to keep wheel cylinders and calipers as well? Personally, I'd have a good old sort out of the brakes (I guess you have as the car has just been rebuilt) and then inspect them regularly.

 

Hi

 

The indecision about replacing the cylinders has to do withe trying to keep the car as original as possible. The car was pretty much stopped in the garage for over 15 years. The brakes were sorted out but rubber things tend to deteriorate and I did not replace those recently, They work fine but they are pretty old (maybe 25 years).

[Don H.]

 

Hi

 

The indecision about replacing the cylinders has to do withe trying to keep the car as original as possible. The car was pretty much stopped in the garage for over 15 years. The brakes were sorted out but rubber things tend to deteriorate and I did not replace those recently, They work fine but they are pretty old (maybe 25 years).

 

 

Carrying spares for aging, ready-to-fail brakes seems like the wrong approach. If you're in doubt about the brakes, Camilo, my advice would be to not leave home. Get them as good as they can be before setting out for anything.

 

I like the original master and clutch slave cylinder castings better than the crappy new stuff we get over here. I had my originals resleeved in brass by Apple Hydraulics and they turned out nicely.

 

Edited June 26, 2017 by Don H.