Bracing tub - Question

[SeanF]

Hi All,

 

Quick question. Is it safe to brace the tub using this captive nut bracket on the A post. I have bolted angle iron between this bracket and the hood bolting captive nuts in the B post but want to check before going ahead and lifting the tub.

 

Many thanks for your help.

 

Sean

[stuart]

No not strong enough, weld your bar to the ledge where the door rubber goes over.

Stuart.

[SeanF]

Thanks Stuart

[Litespud]

I built angle iron braces that screwed into the striker plate holes at the rear and the hinge holes at the front - no welding necessary. I used these to brace the doorless tub when I lifted it. Worked fine. I'll post some pics later

[Keith66]

Hi Sean

 

Firstly i would agree with Stuart that its not strong enough, after all he does this kind of thing professionally and i'm sure knows rather alot more than most of us.

 

But i'll add a couple of points and pics of my "homebrew" methods.

 

First version was as Stuart says welded angle iron at the door apeture AND 2 cross lengths side to side across the body, this time welded to the door apeture angle iron. Body was off for some time and all seemed well when i plonked it back on.

 

Version two was a custom made welded bracket (again homemade) that bolted to the door hinge A post and B post where the door lock attached, the red bracket in the second pic.

 

Both were used on body off procedures and seemed to work well given the door fit on my subsequently painted shell is ok.

 

I'm sure the professionals could point out imperfections but for a home job i'm happy enough, especially given its not finished yet.

 

Cheers

 

Keith

 

 

 

 

 

 

[stuart]

If your doing a line up of all the outer panels too (which you should really) then you need to be able to fit the doors hence the welded bars between the "A" and "B" posts.

Stuart.

 

[SeanF]

Thank you all for your comments. It is all braced and lifted from the chassis for the first time in about 18 months, ie since it was re-built. I welded the bracing as suggested and bolted it as well. It seems solid as a rock so I am well chuffed.

 

Thanks again.

 

 

[Keith66]

As Stuart says it depends on what you are doing with the body off the chassis and you def need the doors in place to align everything correctly if major repairs are needed.

 

Almost all of my tub repairs were done with the body on the chassis to make sure things hadn't moved and the tub was taken off to repair any chassis rust and paint it rather than repair the body off the chassis.

 

Second time was so the body could be painted underneath with the chassis not getting in the way.

 

Cheers

 

Keith

[SeanF]

"Second time was so the body could be painted underneath with the chassis not getting in the way"

 

This is what I am doing Keith. Over the last two years I have re built it on the chassis with new floors, inner and outer sills, inner wings, new boot floor and sides, rear inner and outer valance and lots of new metal patched in. I have already lined up all of the outer panels. They have been on and off hundreds of times (it feels like!). I have to finish welding in the prop tunnel which needs to be done off the chassis, then hopefully that will be all the welding done and I will paint the underside before placing it back on the chassis to paint the interior.