Tr6 shock absorber failure

[DRD]

Hi Keith,

the originals can and do work well but people only ever see duff/used ones so they get a reputation.

As per Steve - get the old ones up rated or buy the Moss offerings.

 

Roger

 

Yes, best to stick with the lever arm types and get a more compliant ride.

Edited June 26, 2017 by DRD

[Keith66]

Kevo

 

Ah yes, thanks, I'd forgotten about Stevsons, proper traditional compenent fabricator and reconditioner.

 

Got my brake and fuel pipes as a kit from them some years ago so i'll pop down as soon as i can to see what they can do.

 

As the cheapo tele's are currently on the (non running) car i'm in no rush.

 

Cheers

 

Keith

[astontr6]

Hi Keith,

the originals can and do work well but people only ever see duff/used ones so they get a reputation.

As per Steve - get the old ones up rated or buy the Moss offerings.

 

Roger

Roger,

They had an awful reputation in the 1970's let alone now? They always started leaking within months of being replaced under warranty. I had 6 sets!!!!!! The only type that I did not TEST were the Armstrong adjustable type which had a much better reputation??? As they had double seals etc. That is where in my opinion the problem lies, the standard ones are not man enough for the type of IRS on a TR. My replacement telescopic Spax lasted 30+ years! Fitted new Spax 3 years ago no problems yet.

 

Bruce.

 

Bruce

[Keith66]

Hi All

 

There seems to many in both camps.

 

But given new Spax or Koni's are a couple of hundred quid and refurbing the lever arms i have (maybe myself) should be a fraction of that, unless i discover some kind of terminal problem, i'll probably do that and see how i like the lever arms and if they last.

 

Not alot lost either way as i have both the levers and the tele brackets already.

 

Cheers Guys

 

Keith

[Waldi]

Keith,

I did just that.

If you re-install the Armstrong shocks make sure you use the correct thick (and large diameter) rings under the bolts that attach the shock to the frame otherwise they might work loose.

[astontr6]

Keith,

I did just that.

If you re-install the Armstrong shocks make sure you use the correct thick (and large diameter) rings under the bolts that attach the shock to the frame otherwise they might work loose.

They should not only have the large washers but be bolted right through the mount and be nutted on the other side + Loctite! They do not come loose then?

 

Bruce

[Waldi]

Hi Bruce,

I did not do that, if you torque the additional nut, you will relieve the threaded contact in the first (chassis) thread, so it comes more or less loose.

Locktite is a good idea.

Regards,

Waldi

[astontr6]

Hi Bruce,

I did not do that, if you torque the additional nut, you will relieve the threaded contact in the first (chassis) thread, so it comes more or less loose.

Locktite is a good idea.

Regards,

Waldi

The bolting right through + nut + Loctite was not my idea but BL's to cut down on warranty claims. Also as far as reliability goes when I went around the Armstrong factory in the 1970's as we made the gasket that went on the lid of the shock. Pallet bins full of failed lever shock arm types were coming back in for reconditioning in their G.I. Dept ? Not a very good advert? Hence this is why I do not have confidence plus my own experience in them.

[stuart]

The bolting right through + nut + Loctite was not my idea but BL's to cut down on warranty claims. Also as far as reliability goes when I went around the Armstrong factory in the 1970's as we made the gasket that went on the lid of the shock. Pallet bins full of failed lever shock arm types were coming back in for reconditioning in their G.I. Dept ? Not a very good advert? Hence this is why I do not have confidence plus my own experience in them.

Interestingly I have a pair of uprated Armstrongs on my solid axle 4a (so exactly the same as IRS type) and they have lasted 25 yrs of very hard use without any problems. Maybe they dont have to work so hard in that application especially as my springs are clamped up hard too.

Stuart.

[Waldi]

On my Armstrongs the casing is an alloy, i guess aluminium or zink-based, it is very soft, and this does not help either with keeping the bolts tight.

I hope the big thick rings will spread the load sufficiently.

Waldi

[Keith66]

So Stuart,

 

Given you are in the business, have presumably driven both and have a fair bit of experience of repairing both and then seeing the outcomes whats your opinion?

 

Are lever arms as vague and unreliable as some seem to say or do tele's loose the original feel of what is a 45yea old car.

 

It'll mostly be for weekend drives and touring and I won't be doing hill climbs or track days.

 

If i want an agressive blast i'll use the wife's more modern brand of drop top, errr marque not to be mentioned here!! lol.

 

Cheers

 

Keith

[astontr6]

Interestingly I have a pair of uprated Armstrongs on my solid axle 4a (so exactly the same as IRS type) and they have lasted 25 yrs of very hard use without any problems. Maybe they dont have to work so hard in that application especially as my springs are clamped up hard too.

Stuart.

Stuart,

 

The suspension whine up you get with the IRS system caused by the O.E. type of drive shaft used in my view over stresses them as the trailing arm rocks backwards and forwards. BL tried to lessen this affect by increasing the poundage of the rear springs 3 times that I know of. But their special tuning division recommended 400lbs type springs to be fitted! As Standard! I had these fitted to my car from new and my car did not sky which was also a problem or rock backwards and forwards, as some of the car that I have been in.

 

Bruce

[stuart]

So Stuart,

 

Given you are in the business, have presumably driven both and have a fair bit of experience of repairing both and then seeing the outcomes whats your opinion?

 

Are lever arms as vague and unreliable as some seem to say or do tele's loose the original feel of what is a 45yea old car.

 

It'll mostly be for weekend drives and touring and I won't be doing hill climbs or track days.

 

If i want an agressive blast i'll use the wife's more modern brand of drop top, errr marque not to be mentioned here!! lol.

 

Cheers

 

Keith

The last few Armstrongs I have replaced have been new repros and they seem to be fine for a standard road car and dont seem to fail too soon, you do need to check them when they arrive as there are a few that lock and have to be returned. If you have them uprated then its only normally 15% as more than that is too much unless your going racing. As to tube shocks obviously you do need to make sure that they are the correct length and again depending on whether the car is standard or not depends on how you have them set. Mostly with the state of the roads and the fact that most people dont drive them like they stole them then start with setting as low as you can and then work up until your happy. I do prefer either 3 point brackets or the Moss Type 3 brackets. When bolting either just ordinary lever arms or tele brackets to the frame its always worth using longer bolts and lock nuts on the back as most chassis (apart from new CTM ones) the thread isnt the best in the bracket by now and the number of cars I have seen with loose ones would surprise you.

Stuart.