RobH Posted December 5, 2017 Report Share Posted December 5, 2017 Of course those particular ones are for left-dipping. The right -dipping ones will have a different number. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted December 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2017 I contacted Euro Car Parts some time ago and they don't do for LHD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted December 5, 2017 Report Share Posted December 5, 2017 This looks like it: https://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?sg=&pgCode=&sgName=&pgName=&agCode=&agName=&pCode=010.275 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 5, 2017 Report Share Posted December 5, 2017 Rob. You beat me too it !, I wonder what the Valoe part No. is - you may find it cheaper elsewhere. Note it has provision for putting the sidelight in the reflector. This gives you the opportunity, if you wanted, to re-wire so that you have white sidelights inside the headlights, & then put amber lenses on the lower lamps for indicators. That is how my car currently is setup. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted December 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2017 (edited) Hi I've just watched a video from Holden's that says that you should not use halogen bulbs in a TR3A if it still uses a dynamo. Well, I have the original dynamo, and found out recently that the yellow bulbs that I fitted in France in the early 80s were halogen. And now I changed them for white halogen ones and I can's see where the problem lies. Edited December 5, 2017 by qim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted December 5, 2017 Report Share Posted December 5, 2017 (edited) The original BFP bulbs were 50Watt main beam 40Watt dipped. A standard halogen replacement might be 60W/55W. On main beam that means the current taken will increase from a nominal 2 x 4.2Amps to 2 x 5 amps. and the extra current taken will mean the dynamo will have to work a bit harder. Its not really a problem but if you have other things taking current too - like a cooling fan, wipers etc, the dynamo may not be able to properly charge the battery at the same time at low engine speed, so if you only drive at night in town you might find the battery becoming discharged over time. There are much higher power Halogen bulbs available and that would make the problem worse as well as possibly over-heating the wiring. Edited December 5, 2017 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted December 5, 2017 Report Share Posted December 5, 2017 Mist #34 Bob! i guess you guys have heard it all before. On a secondary note I forgot that the headlamps I sent for re-silvering actually got damaged by the repairer and they had to replace them for me....took them about two months to find replacements and they turned out to have new back (correct focal length etc) with H4 fittings so I might ask santa about the Nigthbreaker idea, are they really that much better than standard H4 bulbs? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted December 6, 2017 Report Share Posted December 6, 2017 " are they really that much better than standard H4 bulbs? " Yes . . . . . ! Cheers, Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 6, 2017 Report Share Posted December 6, 2017 " are they really that much better than standard H4 bulbs? " Yes . . . . . ! Cheers, Alec +1 Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted December 6, 2017 Report Share Posted December 6, 2017 Hi I've just watched a video from Holden's that says that you should not use halogen bulbs in a TR3A if it still uses a dynamo. Well, I have the original dynamo, and found out recently that the yellow bulbs that I fitted in France in the early 80s were halogen. And now I changed them for white halogen ones and I can's see where the problem lies. Is this of use? Valeo in Portugal https://www.valeoservice.pt/pt-pt or - Contact Valeo - https://www.valeo.com/en/contact/ Tell them you have a Triumph TR (any model TR2 - TR8 or a Land Rover Defender 90/110 or Classic Mini 1959 - 2000 ) as they all use the same 7 inch diameter headlamp design. Tell them you want the lamp to dip RIGHT as you drive on the RH side of the road in Portugal The lamp STYLE is the Z beam lamp NOTE The LH dipping for driving on the LH side of the road (in UK) is Valeo 082440 - You will want THE RH DIPPING VERSION for use on Portugal roads. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
qim Posted December 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2017 Thank you Peter I have been in contact with Holden in UK but will call these people tomorrow Camilo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted January 8, 2018 Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 so guess what I got for Christmas? yep a pair of H4 nightbreaker bulbs! BUT I've slipped up somewhere and I'm sure someone will tell me (what a twonk I am) the difference. I have these fitted at the moment and they came in a box marked H4 so I asked santa for H4 but as you can see they are not the same in the metal fitting department. How can I decipher H4 from H4 if you know what I mean. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted January 8, 2018 Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 9th post down here: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifications-accessories/40664-what-does-h1-h3-h4-h7-etc-specifications-bulbs-mean.html shows pictures of the different bases, if that's any help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 8, 2018 Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 What you have there is not an H4 base. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted January 8, 2018 Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 Thanks Robh but his bulb isn't on there. Its the older type (large glass filament bulb) base to fit the older lamp fitting but with a modern Halogen bulb fitted....but it still says H4 on the rim....confused anyhoo, look out for a new boxed set of H4 nightbreakers on the so called (read naff) bring n buy at Lincoln this year.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 8, 2018 Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 so guess what I got for Christmas? yep a pair of H4 nightbreaker bulbs! BUT I've slipped up somewhere and I'm sure someone will tell me (what a twonk I am) the difference. I have these fitted at the moment and they came in a box marked H4 so I asked santa for H4 but as you can see they are not the same in the metal fitting department. How can I decipher H4 from H4 if you know what I mean. DSC_0630.JPG DSC_0632.JPG Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 8, 2018 Report Share Posted January 8, 2018 That looks like a p45t type base bulb. As fitted by our continental cousins. Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Don H. Posted January 9, 2018 Report Share Posted January 9, 2018 That looks like a p45t type base bulb. As fitted by our continental cousins. Peter W Exactly, Peter, I think it's an H4 with P45t base What you want is H4 with P43t base: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinCamJohn Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 Just to re open this thread. I have Philips 60./55 H4 bulbs in the TR3. Are the nightbreaker bulbs any better, as they are 60/55 ? Is there a slightly more powerful option without compromising the wiring set up? I already run an alternator. I don't use the car much at night, but certain rallyes have night sections and a bit more brightness for these old eyes would be a help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 The wattage rating of the bulb is not the whole story - the brightness of a bulb depends on how hot the filament is run so two nominal but different 60W bulbs may give different light outputs. What you really need to check is the Lumens rating which is the total light output from the bulb. For instance the 60/55 "+110%" Nightbreaker is quoted as 1650 lumens on full beam which is the same as the Philips X-treme Vision but the Philips Diamond Vision is only 950 lumens. (What doesn't help is that some manufacturers quote Candela rather than Lumens and the two are not comparable). In general hotter filaments tend to be more fragile though so you may pay for more brightness with shorter life. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinCamJohn Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 thanks Rob. I didn't fit these bulbs originally. I checked them earlier today and then reassembled the light unit. All I noted was Philipps H4 60/55. There were some other figures but I didn't pay attention. What might it quote on the bulb surround ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Down Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 Nightbreaker bulbs do offer quite an improvement over standard. I have them fitted on a TVR and initially just fitted one side, the difference was very noticeable. As Rob says you gain and you lose so do not expect the same life expectancy. To me this is not a problem as the mileage covered in Classics is only low. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 Were is Qim these days. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 thanks Rob. I didn't fit these bulbs originally. I checked them earlier today and then reassembled the light unit. All I noted was Philipps H4 60/55. There were some other figures but I didn't pay attention. What might it quote on the bulb surround ? If you google for Philips H4 60/55w you will get a whole list of different types with their model numbers. They seem to have a huge variety of bulbs with very similar names. The X-treme Vision 110% seems to be 22107030 but I don't know if that number appears on the bulb itself or just on the packaging. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinCamJohn Posted April 2, 2018 Report Share Posted April 2, 2018 Hmm, I'll have to take the bulb out again to be sure. More later Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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