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I guess have got a dff change to do:

 

There was always a lot of play where the prop shaft went into the diff but all seemed to work OK so was putting off spending the money. I did not see a speed bump and went over quiet fast and there was one hell of a crack and now there is a metallic click/thump when the diff takes up the slack after a gear change.

I suspected I had sheered a couple of diff mounting pins but I have put it on axle stands to have a prod about.

The diff mounts look OK and the diff looks squarely mounted but the prop shaft is no where near central in the tunnel and the two drive shaft are not symmetrical. (O/S fairly straight from hub to diff but the N/S is definitely at a slight angle. How can this be possible because the diff still works and is mounted square so I am guessing some serious damage must have happened inside

 

Any thoughts? Anybody got a good diff for sale?

 

Cheers

 

Simon

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Simon, the diff mounts can look OK even when cracked, until the diff is removed when cracks in the mounting become visible (don't ask how I know). However if one drive shaft is at a different angle to the other it sounds like the trailing arm has moved somehow, so this could get expensive.

 

Pete

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Hi Pete

The trailing arms are attached to the chassis with no, broken brackets or bolts and the bushes have no play so do not think it is a problem with the trailing arms. It is the skew whiff prop shaft that is perplexing. The rear U/J bolts are almost fowling the tunnel just forward of the diff flange. !! ?? I will remove the gearbox cover and prop shaft cover and as it is on stands will run it in gear to see if it gives me any clues.

 

Simon

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If you're going to take the diff out, don't forget to drain the fuel tank and disconnect the flexible pipe. Lying under the car with a diff on your chest while 4 gallons of Tesco's finest runs out over your shirt is not fun.

 

Pete

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Taking the diff out was part of my rear end suspension overhaul to include uprated springs, telescopic shox and poly bushes.

Diff is out and pins and mounts all good. That is a relief.

Hubs are off and a lot of play/clonking in the splines so new shafts needed

Trailing arms off. A question for the experts.

1) All T/A attach brackets had the bush bolts orientated so they could not be removed. Thought at least one was fitted so it could be removed. It meant the chassis bolts had to be removed which was not easy.

2) Shims: N/S 4 and 2. O/S 6 and 0 (6 on the outside) Unbelievable

I have had the car since 1975 and believe this to be the case since build. This cannot be correct and I can only think that 3 were put in, the guy went for a cup of tea and instead of putting 3 on the other bracket put them in the wrong place. I am going to rebuild with 3/3. What is the norm/average for shims? Has anyone seen 6/0?

When all back I will need the whole car aligned. Does anyone know a reliable company in London/SE who have the correct equipment, know how to use it and can competently fit shims.

Also a recommendation for a company in London S/E for shot blasting and powder coating the T/A's.

 

Thanks

Simon

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Try NSP Blasting in Gravesend Kent. i am happy with their work.

 

You are wrong to assume that the number of shims should be equal as these are fitted as required to alignment . some have none others can have up to 5 so put back as you found them until you find somewhere to re check if correct.

 

 

Roy

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Thanks Roy

I am not assuming the shims need to be equal but 6/0 seems to be rather excessive. Surely that would indicate the chassis is bent

 

Simon

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In recent years I've had great success using a Trackrite alignment tool, and this combined with their camber gauge gives very consistent results. It's a bit tedious having to drive backwards and forwards over the plate, adjusting as you go, the thing is made of plastic and looks a bit delicate, but I've had my MG ZTT on it with no problems, and you need a flat, smooth and level surface (I use 2 larges sheet of hardboard). The combined cost of these two tools is probably the same as one visit to a wheel alignment shop, so you could always do the setting up with the tools and then take it along to have it checked, some shops only charge if they adjust something.

Cheers Rob

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Thanks Roy

I am not assuming the shims need to be equal but 6/0 seems to be rather excessive. Surely that would indicate the chassis is bent

 

Simon

Did you do a tracking check before you took it apart? I have seen all sorts of combinations of shims and bearing in mind the origin of this chassis dates back to 64/65 dont bank on it being built straight in the first place! As to the bolts being in so you cant remove without taking the whole bracket off the chassis thats the way the factory built them working on the principle that if they ever came undone they couldnt fall out.

Trackrite gauges are very good to give you an initial setup which will be very close to any laser alignment.

Stuart

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Thanks for that Stuart. Maybe when all put back together a trip to the West Country is called for, for a pro set up. I am putting on telescopic shox with type 2 brackets. The manual says 4 notch outer and 2 notch inners for the T/A brackets. This looks like giving the wheels a degree or two of negative camber. Is that still good for the telescopic set up or have others who have done this conversion found a better combination of brackets?

 

Simon

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The workshop manual definitely says 4 and 2 for the notches. However, the Moss Catalogue only lists 2 and 1 notch brackets. Does 4/2 give the same camber as 2/1?

 

Simon

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I have 1 degree negative camber and telescopic shock absorbers and it's fine. I have Richard Good's adjustable T/A brackets so camber adjustment is a breeze. Someone will be along soon to say the they are dangerous...

Edited by peejay4A
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No such thing as 4 notch, there are 1 and 2 notch for 4a and 5 early 6 then a 3 notch bracket appeared for later 6`s with a combination of the three brackets and fitting them notch up or notch down will give you 36 different combinations of angle.http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Suspension/AdjRS/AdjRS.htm

If your going for type 2 shock brackets get the 3 point mounting ones for safety.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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I guess you mean what Moss call the type 2A brackets with the third fixing going into where the bump stop screws into. OK will take your advice but was hoping to get away with the type 2 as the bump stop is gong to be a bugger to get out.

Getting the old rubber bushes out of the T/A is becoming a mission. have heard about "burning the rubber out". would have thought too much heat could compromise the strength of the alloy casting??? Maybe just the old fashioned way of using mini hacksaw blade down the metal bore of the bushing??? Anyone got any tips?

 

Simon

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I guess you mean what Moss call the type 2A brackets with the third fixing going into where the bump stop screws into. OK will take your advice but was hoping to get away with the type 2 as the bump stop is gong to be a bugger to get out.

Getting the old rubber bushes out of the T/A is becoming a mission. have heard about "burning the rubber out". would have thought too much heat could compromise the strength of the alloy casting??? Maybe just the old fashioned way of using mini hacksaw blade down the metal bore of the bushing??? Anyone got any tips?

 

Simon

Pull them out with a long m12 Bolt/Threaded Bar and a couple of Penny Washers and a Lrg Socket,soak with WD40,get the Centre Bush out first the Rubber is then handy. Edited by TR NIALL
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I guess you mean what Moss call the type 2A brackets with the third fixing going into where the bump stop screws into. OK will take your advice but was hoping to get away with the type 2 as the bump stop is gong to be a bugger to get out.

Getting the old rubber bushes out of the T/A is becoming a mission. have heard about "burning the rubber out". would have thought too much heat could compromise the strength of the alloy casting??? Maybe just the old fashioned way of using mini hacksaw blade down the metal bore of the bushing??? Anyone got any tips?

 

Simon

Simon, I have a T/A bush puller somewhere that I used on my TR6. I can post it to you (if I can find it) and you can send it back when you're done.

P.

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Yes that will work but only when the bolts are out of the bushes! Having been in for 50 years they will not budge! They just turn with a 3 foot bar on the socket but will not withdraw as the rubber bush turns, so the bolt is welded to the centre metal

bush. Brute force has not worked but I am fearful of too much whacking. Soaking overnight in WD40 and try again tomorrow.

 

Simon

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Yes that will work but only when the bolts are out of the bushes! Having been in for 50 years they will not budge! They just turn with a 3 foot bar on the socket but will not withdraw as the rubber bush turns, so the bolt is welded to the centre metalbush. Brute force has not worked but I am fearful of too much whacking. Soaking overnight in WD40 and try again tomorrow.Simon

Cut the Head of the Bolt off with a Thin Angle Grinder Blade.

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Morning Niall

Another early riser!

What will cutting the head of the bolt off achieve? The bolt is stuck in the bore of the metal bush. The metal bush is stuck to the rubber bushes and the rubber bushes are pretty well welded to the bore of the T/A. With my memories of tightening the head down to 105 ft/lbs of torque I would guess I am having to exert in excess of 300 ft/lbs just to turn the bolt and rubber bush combination. I will probably end up cutting off the head and tail end and carefully inserting a .circular drill bit to cut away the rubber. What a mission. I thought t was going to be a doddle, just a few bolts to undo!

 

Cheers

 

Simon

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