TwinCamJohn Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 hello Everyone. New Forum member from France. I bought a TR3A about nine months ago; P1040454 by john curtis, sur Flickr Have had a love of cars since teenage times and have had the luck to own and race Aston Martins and rallying with Escort Twin Cam and Austin Healey etc. I have just changed the brake switch on the TR3A and replaced it with one from Moss. I had complete brake failure, luckily reversing out of the workshop and not on a rallye. The fluid had drained through the thread on the switch. I now see that the replacement switches do not have a tapered thread like the originals. Spoke to Moss who apologise and say they will send me a copper washer which should sort it. Has anyone else had this problem ? Nothing is mentioned in their catalogue and no washer is shown. Unfortunately the fluid has ruined the paint on the chassis. Moss are sending some chassis paint but I doubt if it will match. At least it was a gesture. Why can't we have original equipment? I would be happy to pay more. i suppose it is cheaper to cut a parrellel thread. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 There has always been two types of threaded switch one with parallel thread and one with a tapered thread unfortunately the only way to find out is to take it out to check and then order accordingly. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 Hi John, this switch has the taper thread and is for the Locheed system http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/brake-system/brake-controls-hydraulics/brake-pipes-lockheed-system.html This is for the Girling system and I assume parallel http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/brake-system/brake-controls-hydraulics/brake-pipes-girling-system.html Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinCamJohn Posted May 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 Thanks for the replies. I have the Girling system. I am not too good on recognising threads but the replacement switch (21B291 Girling) is a looser fit and the diameter of the thread is about 1mm less than the existing one. Also the existing switch tightens before reaching the cruciform union. This makes me think it is a tapered thread. How am I doing ? !! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 Hi John, I should have welcomed you to the forum - Welcome. If you have a Girling system then the thread should be parallel. Could your existing fitting on the chassis be a tapered Locheed fitted by a PO. That may explain the looseness of the switch. If you do have a tapered female fitting I wouldn't use a parallel male, even with a copper washer, as it will be attached by only a few threads. Nice looking car by the way. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinCamJohn Posted May 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 The cruciform union would seem to be Girling.. It has the restrictor valve and the fitting to the bracket on the chassis. Is it as Stuart said that I could have the Girling system with a tapered thread. Does my description indicate that the thread is tapered ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 You never know whats been done in the intervening 60 yrs but if the previous switch was a tapered thread and fitted correctly to the union then its safe to assume thats what you need to replace it with and to I have come across both types fitted to 3a`s so never assume Roger! Dont fit the wrong switch get the correct one.If you order that switch from TR Shop they usually ask what thread it is as a matter of course. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinCamJohn Posted May 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 (edited) Does my description indicate that the thread is tapered ? I am not too good on recognising threads but the replacement switch (21B291 Girling) is a looser fit and the diameter of the thread is about 1mm less than the existing one. Also the existing switch tightens before reaching the cruciform union. This makes me think it is a tapered thread. Edited May 26, 2017 by TwinCamJohn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Graham Harris Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 Yes , i had the same problem took several remedies to get the thread to seal. I should have got the tapered thread switch and saved all the agro Graham Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 For we non purists..... Fit the failed taper threaded switch that you know seals back in the union and then fit a mechancial BMW/Mercedes brake switch up at the pedals/master cyls. The wiring extends very easily and the metal cased switch looks period, rather than the replacement ghastly plastic thing for TR4-6. This mod has been detailed on this forum before. This style, but check operation - depress plunger is off. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Pin-White-Housing-Intermotor-Brake-Light-Switch-Rear-Safety-Genuine-OE-Quality-/191419280982?fits=Car+Make%3ABMW This has been my experience of the modern batch of hydraulic switches - the replacement hydraulic switch survived no more than a year. The first indication of failure is it only working when the pedal is pressed VERY hard. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Fireman049 Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 +1 Peter W. Tom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 + another 1 A nice little bracket shown in the Devon Group "In The Garage" newsletter (though I say it myself)???? http://www.tr-register.co.uk/group/devon/social-report/2016/12/0590/In-the-Garage-Christmas-Edition Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinCamJohn Posted June 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2017 Thanks for all the thoughts. I ordered the Lockheed system switch (even though mine is Girling) and that now fits OK. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 23, 2017 Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 (edited) My Hydraulic activated switch failed a couple of days ago - the brake lights stayed on whether my foot was on the pedal or not. a few taps on the switch with a small hammer did not make any difference, so decided to go down the mechanical switch route. Most difficult part was removing the captive nut originally intended to take the limit stop screws (see clutch side) these were deleted anyway on later cars. Managed to remove it using a long 13mm ring spanner on it, & twisting till it came away. The hole then had to be enlarged to just under ½" to take the "BMW" switch (£5.90 from Car Parts 4 Less" on ebay). The rest was easy: Bob. P.S. Have looked at the photo, I might just re-crimp that left hand spade ! Edited December 23, 2017 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted December 23, 2017 Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 Hi Bob, that BMW switch is such good value for money. The brake lights will now just simply work. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted December 23, 2017 Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 ...But being BMW the indicators are probably now defunct Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted December 23, 2017 Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 ...But being BMW the indicators are probably now defunct Ha Ha Ha ???? Love it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted December 23, 2017 Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 (edited) Theres an alternative solution in one of the Devon Group In The Garage newsletters for those who may want to retain the pedal stop and have a lot more spare time to make the change ???? http://www.tr-register.co.uk/group/devon/social-report/2017/10/0855/In-the-Garage-Autumn-Edition Edited December 23, 2017 by Drewmotty Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted December 23, 2017 Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 Start fitting BMW or VAG or Merc parts to a TR and the damn things will start growing their own ECUs, by some mysterious form of frankenstein transmutation, and that's the last time the TR will see the road this side of a complete strip down and rebuild . . . . Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted December 23, 2017 Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 ????at least this mod helps keep the rear end bodywork unmodified???? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted December 24, 2017 Report Share Posted December 24, 2017 TR6 switch under the dash, on the top of the pedal stem. There must be a pic of that contraption here on the forum, but that was before my pics were taken hostage by Photobucket. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.