2long Posted May 22, 2017 Report Share Posted May 22, 2017 I have dismantled the front suspension and steering, and I am no longer willing to do all the cleaning the hard way - I want to use a local sandblasting service for the first time. "Mr. Sandman", here I come. For exposed threads, I intend to use duct tape to protect the threads (i.e. the vertical links). For the suspension control arms, there are female threaded holes - should I seal those up? For brake drums, should I simply tape the inner surface where the pads meet the drum? Is there a certain blast medium I should ask be used (walnuts, peanuts, or pecans?). The spring pan has some crevices, and should I close those up so no particles get left around? I am sure this is basic stuff, but any tips would be appreciated. I intend to go through my closet of old parts and toss in other pieces just because. No body sheet metal, as I know that takes special care. I also plan to spray the pieces with Rustoleum semi gloss soon after blasting. Cheers Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kob666e Posted May 22, 2017 Report Share Posted May 22, 2017 Duct tape on threads will do fine, I always screw bolts into threaded holes for protection, it's also handy for hanging from when painting. Duct tape on the braking face of the drums, any crevices in spring pan can be cleaned afterwards with compressed air. Wouldn't be too fussed about the medium used on suspension parts, they're pretty robust. If it's fragile trust Mr Sandman to have enough sense not to turn it to dust, he wants to see you back again. I have found that sometimes they will add their own tape to protect some parts if they think it's necessary. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted May 23, 2017 Report Share Posted May 23, 2017 In addition it is best to remove as much of tectyl etc before blasting as this is very hard to remove by blasting. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
2long Posted May 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 To follow up on this issue, I found out they will not take the parts unless they are competely free of grease, which is a little circular because that is partly why I wanted them blasted. Having rooted through my garage to add various loose items to my current suspension/steering job, I came up with the following assortment: 4 drums, 4 springs, 2 spring pans, 2 spring spacers, 8 lower suspension arms, 4 upper suspension arms, 2 vertical links, and 2 upper fulcrum pins. Mr. Sandman was quite friendly but I got nervous when he sent me to the office for the estimate, rather than telling me as he sifted through my parts. Total cost estimate for blasting the above - $500 (gold plating is extra). Just keeping it real. I left Mr. Sandman behind and went back to Mr. Alec Pringle's notes on the use of milkstone remover, a stiff wire brush, and a few bandaids for the knuckes. Cheers Dan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alec Pringle Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 Don't forget the electric drill and assorted wire brushing and sanding attachments ! Cheers Alec Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rob Salisbury Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 Milkstone remover .... AKA Phosphoric acid solution, ...... so also needed, eye protection and rubber gloves, and expect the clothes you wear to disintegrate the next time they go in the wash!! Be careful out there!! Cheers Rob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
john.r.davies Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 Having long been an advocate of MIlkStone Remover (MSR), I now find that DeOxC, as a 1Kg pack of crystals http://www.bilthamber.com/deox-c, will make 20L of solution, when 5L of MSR costs about the same. The MSR, phosphoric acid, is a concentrate, so may dilute to 20L or more, but next time I need this sort of thing, I'll try the DeOxC. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 (edited) Just ordered some from ebay Bob. Edited May 25, 2017 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 Hi John/Dan, I have used Bilthamber DeOxC for some time now and find that it is excellent. I'm sure there are plenty of other products but this never fails and is relatively harmless - but do take the normal precautions. Remove all paint/oil/grease and heavy rust then dunk in a bucket of it for 24 Hrs. It comes out with a pickled surface. The parent metal has not been affected and the pickled pores are the result of deep down rust removal. Wash the product off with water and dry immediately. Prime/under coat asap. It is a rust remover NOT a converter. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
littlejim Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 If you are doing the refurbing as a retirement project and buying a compressor, the small stuff can be done in a cabinet. I use glass beads, but anything gritty works. For the bigger stuff and panels it gets more fair dinkum. I used a ten gallon blaster and 30-60 grit garnet plus made a 'plastic palace' to try to restrict where the dust went. (ho ho) However you need lots of room and lots of time if you go down that route. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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